Adding Electric water heater

[formerFR]

our son's HOTT ROD works well, as a morning shower is all that is needed, other than a few nightly dish washing action during the week... whether it's 4 amps, or 40 amps, it's only a matter of time before the water is heated, then it's heated, either way.

[markb422]

Curious what the OP needs the hot water for. I see that model pop-up does have a wet bath with shower but do you use it. If you only need the hw for dish washing and would rather use electricity you could buy a hot pot to heat water for dishes. I would think a gallon of boiling hot water would be enough to do the dishes and have enough left for a cup of tea or two.

[Bob2019]

My former TT water heater alum tank started leaking and required a new tank. WH are not cheap, but I did find an exact match on Amazon that was hundreds less than from a dealer. How hard can that be with the same model? A lot more depending on where they are located. Mine was in the back of the TT, under the nightstand. Next I had to remove the mattress and board from bed stand. Next remove a drawer from the nightstand to work in a small area on the top and side of the WH. Unhook the water pipes, gas line, 12v wiring for igniting pilot and the 120v Romex. Outside, remove all the screws to pull the WH out. The old or new WH cannot be removed or new installed with the Styrofoam insulation on the tank. Had to remove the top styrofoam, slide in, then used a strap used to tighten a load on a truck to snug up the top piece and sides around the WH through the nightstand drawer. Nothing is simple with RVs.

[Chuck_S]

In many cases the trailer is built around things like the water heater. Easy to bolt it to the bare floor and build the cabinets around it. Like those massive safes at old banks were often put in on the bare floor with a big crane in the early build stage and the building constructed around it.

-- Chuck

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Bob2019

My former TT water heater alum tank started leaking and required a new tank. WH are not cheap, but I did find an exact match on Amazon that was hundreds less than from a dealer. How hard can that be with the same model? A lot more depending on where they are located. Mine was in the back of the TT, under the nightstand. Next I had to remove the mattress and board from bed stand. Next remove a drawer from the nightstand to work in a small area on the top and side of the WH. Unhook the water pipes, gas line, 12v wiring for igniting pilot and the 120v Romex. Outside, remove all the screws to pull the WH out. The old or new WH cannot be removed or new installed with the Styrofoam insulation on the tank. Had to remove the top styrofoam, slide in, then used a strap used to tighten a load on a truck to snug up the top piece and sides around the WH through the nightstand drawer. Nothing is simple with RVs.

I have never ever had to remove the styrofoam from the tanks before install or to remove .

[Bluepill]

Oh, so many with such little faith.

Tim the Tool Man would wire a direct 50 amp circuit to a 12,000 watt industrial heating element. Why wait more than 15 seconds for hot water?

MORE POWER!

[nickens]

There are a couple 110v heater add-on out there. It's fairly quick and easy, about 3 hours including wiring it into the Lance camper's 110v system.

All you do is remove the anode rod and replace it with the 110v element.

Since you still need the anode, I removed the PRV installed a nipple and a T with the T facing down and reinstalled the PRV. In the open end of the T I installed a new anode rod. All of the new piping was bronze.

Be sure to buy the special rod removal socket for a socket wrench. I would hate to guess how long it would have taken otherwise.

The electrical was pretty easy. There was an existing single 110v receptacle serving the fridge which is next to the water heater. Since the two appliances combine for less than 15A, I just installed a dual receptacle.

It's worked great!

However, in the bigger picture, it would have been easier and just a little more $ to just buy a new dual power water heater.

[flookk]

Originally Posted by jaxgoose

I have a new to me 2018 Flagstaff HighWall 29Sc (pop up camper) . Been out in it a couple times now.



I currently have a propane hot water heater only. Which works great, but wanted to know if i could do an electric heater when using full hook ups. I was wondering if anyone has added an electric hot water heater to a similar model or any newer Highwall?



Thoughts on where to begin? Is this an easy modification?

As others have pointed out there are several companies offering options to modify your WH to make it hybrid. The Diamond Group Hott Rod (most expensive), Western Leisure's Lightning Rod (midrange $$) and Camco's Hybrid Heat Kit (least expensive). I too have a Suburban water heater that requires an anode. I went with the Lightning Rod because it comes with a significant anode that the heating element fits through, comes with a spare anode and had the easiest wiring setup. I open the outside WH cover, unwrap the electrical cord and plug it into the outdoor receptacle on my trailer. Zero chance that I am going to forget to turn off the WH switch inside the trailer and plug the trailer in with no water in the WH tank and burn out the element.

https://www.westernleisureproducts.com/

[Jim1234]

I suppose a compelling reason to have an electric WH is for the virtually unlimited energy (while hooked to shore power), extending the duration of the propane supply for other uses.