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Old 09-13-2015, 08:51 PM   #1
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Always something ... Interior Ceiling lights stopped working

I had the lift switch fail in the down direction. I figured it out by checking the volts at the switch and noticed that there wasn't any volts getting past it. So I ordered one that matched exactly as the OEM (DPDT, 20AMPS@125v, 10A@277V, rated for 1.5HP motor). $12 from amazon and other couple bucks for the weather proof jacket for the lever. I just replaced it on this last weekend's camping trip. Not only does the lift go down, but it also goes up faster. Maybe it had some resistance within the switch itself.

But now the interior roof lights are not working. First I checked the master switch at the entrance corner. Not getting any volts there. I also checked the fuse-converter panel and the fuse for that circuit was good. However, I wasn't getting any volts from the hot side of the fuse. So, I guess the fuse-panel itself is bad?

The two floor lights work, so I guess their on another circuit? The panel is loosely documented to what goes where. Is it common for these panel-converters to have bad legs/feeds?

FYI - I replaced the switch "after" noticing the interior lights not working. So, not relating but electrical gremlins are alive and well ...
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Old 09-14-2015, 07:07 AM   #2
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The WFCO converters that come with popups are not noted as being one of the best out there.
I know when mine goes, I will probably replace it with a Progressive Dynamic Power Center.
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Old 09-14-2015, 08:11 PM   #3
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The WFCO converters that come with popups are not noted as being one of the best out there.
I know when mine goes, I will probably replace it with a Progressive Dynamic Power Center.
Yeah, that Mighty Mini looks decent. I may just pay the $50 deductible for the service charge and see if it can just be replaced under my service contract, assuming that is the problem. I can't see how it can't be in this case. Luckily the floor lights worked and we had a couple flashlights. Made for an interesting night with the kiddos.
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Old 09-14-2015, 09:38 PM   #4
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Check the switch, usually buy the sink /stove fold down, it shuts the lights off when the sink cabinet is folded and shuts the lights off so they will not burn the canvass if they are hot.
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:38 AM   #5
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Check the switch, usually buy the sink /stove fold down, it shuts the lights off when the sink cabinet is folded and shuts the lights off so they will not burn the canvass if they are hot.
I appreciate the reply, but this is on a highwall model - so the sink cabinet doesn't fold, it's stationary. However, there is a light-switch for ceiling lights - its the one pictured below with the red arrow. That was the first place I checked too, thinking it was a bad switch (since I have been dealing with a bad switch with the lift). I also checked the hot side of the circuit at the panel and not getting anything there as well, so I am thinking that the circuit itself is bad?

Also pictured is a green arrow, which is the floor lights switch. That works just fine, so that must be on another circuit. The documentation surrounding this is pretty much non-existant so I guess I will just pay the service claim and get it looked at and see if the panel can be covered.
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:53 AM   #6
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If you checked the circuit and have no power at the panel then I would start looking at the panel. You may have popped the circuit breaker for that circuit. Try turning off all the circuit breaker to reset them and then try turning them all back on.
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:59 AM   #7
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If you checked the circuit and have no power at the panel then I would start looking at the panel. You may have popped the circuit breaker for that circuit. Try turning off all the circuit breaker to reset them and then try turning them all back on.
Yeah, already flipped the 30-AMP master and the 15/20AMP subs to no prevail. I am wondering if I should just wire in a Progressive Dynamic panel and just call it done. Just curious if these cheaper WFCO panels were known for this type of issue. I am sure the repair place will just put in the cheapest unit that they will find.
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Old 09-15-2015, 12:41 PM   #8
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Check your 12V fuses in the main panel. One could be blown or the connection might be corroded.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:01 PM   #9
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Could there be a tripped GFI somewhere? My RV (totally different) has two, one near the cook stove and one in the bathroom.
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Old 09-15-2015, 02:20 PM   #10
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Sorry, GFI's are normally only on lines with outlets....not lights. However, it is always possible that someone might have added some "home touches".
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:32 AM   #11
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Check your 12V fuses in the main panel. One could be blown or the connection might be corroded.
Fuses are good. I am not getting any voltage on the hot end of that fuse.
That is why I suspecting it to be the panel itself.
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Old 09-16-2015, 07:36 AM   #12
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Sorry, GFI's are normally only on lines with outlets....not lights. However, it is always possible that someone might have added some "home touches".
Correct - and those outlets are working just fine. Heck, even the floor lights are working just fine ... but not the ceiling ones. I really think it's the circuit within the panel that has gone bad. I am not feeling upto the task of changing that panel - but then again, I then have to be willing to let it sit for weeks on-end at the service shop too and have them possibly put in the same low-quality panel too.
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Old 09-16-2015, 09:51 PM   #13
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Roof lighting

I am not familiar with the layout of your unit, but with my Flagstaff 228d I had that same issue. On mine the inverter and all major plumbing is located under the galley and in my case, my shore line got hung up on some wires and as a result I pulled the wire pigtail connector for my roof lighting off separating the wire....be sure the investigate the small stuff first.
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Old 09-18-2015, 07:12 AM   #14
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I had a similar issue and it turned out to be a bad crimp connection behind a ceiling light. The wiring is looped from light to light on the circuit so if any connection is bad it can cause problems down the line. Pull the light fixtures down and look at the connections on the wiring. You may find that one is loose and black from arcing.


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Old 09-22-2015, 03:39 PM   #15
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Correct - and those outlets are working just fine. Heck, even the floor lights are working just fine ... but not the ceiling ones. I really think it's the circuit within the panel that has gone bad. I am not feeling upto the task of changing that panel - but then again, I then have to be willing to let it sit for weeks on-end at the service shop too and have them possibly put in the same low-quality panel too.
Since everything is working except the ceiling lights, the problem is most likely to be in the kill switch or associated wiring. The switch is a contact that opens the ceiling light circuit when the ceiling is lowered. It's usually near the outer edge of some fixed cabinetry so that the roof lowering will open the contact. On my 2000 Coleman Westlake, it was at the back of the galley behind the swing-down portion.

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Old 09-22-2015, 06:52 PM   #16
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I thought I remembered a "kill switch" at the drivers front corner on the roof on my HW277. It's been a bit- and DW says I am losing my mind. Maybe someone can check theirs?
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Old 09-23-2015, 06:17 PM   #17
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You are correct hondaman, there is a kill switch on the driver side front corner of the roof of our hw277.
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Old 09-26-2015, 07:23 PM   #18
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You are correct hondaman, there is a kill switch on the driver side front corner of the roof of our hw277.
Ah - I didn't think I had an "override" switch as it has a separate master switch to control all the lighting right there at the entrance.

I am not familiar with the 277s - are they pretty much just like the 296s, just a difference size?

We have another trip coming up so I would like to get this solved before heading back out again. I will see if I can get sometime tomorrow and check out the driver side front corner area.

Thanks everyone for their input!
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Old 09-26-2015, 07:44 PM   #19
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The 277 is a 14 foot box single axle with the slide out kitchen. It also has the master switch right inside the door way as you mentioned. The dealer never mentioned the roof switch, I just happened to find it one day when I was looking over the roof and supports.
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