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Old 08-26-2019, 12:22 PM   #1
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Are you really ready for a flat tire?

We were on I-55 and had a blow out on my Flagstaff HW27SC. I had a 4 ton bottle jack and had thrown in a 4 ton scissors jack at the last minute before we left. I also carry about 8 pieces of 3/4" plywood about 6" X 6". Well the bottle jack was too high to fit under the axle behind the tire and I could not operate the scissors jack in a very awkward position. I had to put the bottle jack under the frame behind the tire but it did not have enough lift, so the scissors jack went under the frame before the tire to get high enough to change the tire. The ground was soft and I used all of my plywood squares. My sockets were too shallow to remove the nuts holding the spare tire to the mount but I made do with an an adjustable wrench. All very exciting on the edge of the interstate with the trailer rocking with each passing vehicle. Just glad it was not on the driver's side as there was no room to pull any further off the highway and I would have been in the roadway. I will be replacing my jacks with a 4 ton hydraulic floor jack and a piece of 3/4" plywood maybe 30" X 10" for it to ride on. A little extra weight and room but well worth it if needed. I think that jacking it up were I had to may have bowed the frame somewhat as the top pins in my slide no longer line up as they should. Will have to work on that. Just saying to be sure that you are well prepared for this type of issue as it could be life threatening in certain situations.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:26 PM   #2
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Have you considered one of these?


https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Aid-T.../dp/B000I4JPZE
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:28 PM   #3
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All my blocks are 2x12 cut to 12 inches length. Bigger footprint = better stability.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:28 PM   #4
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See "Herk's Bad Day" for a similar experience.

My most recent roadside fiasco was on the driver side and roadside work was out of the question. Glad I had my own tools because the guy that came out to repair my bearing failure did NOT have a socket big enough for my axle nut, nor did he have a file or sand paper to polish the spindle.

I should have charged him tool rental for the way he robbed me.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:29 PM   #5
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Note, for the item above you want a length of 2"x6" to set it on most likely if your tandem has too much travel to lift the flat tire off of the ground. It's still going to be way lighter than a floor jack.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:38 PM   #6
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Thanks for the suggestion but it is single axle trailer.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:38 PM   #7
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For my trailer, I bring a 2 ton aluminum floor jack.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry0071 View Post
Note, for the item above you want a length of 2"x6" to set it on most likely if your tandem has too much travel to lift the flat tire off of the ground. It's still going to be way lighter than a floor jack.
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Old 08-26-2019, 01:16 PM   #8
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Hi Lift

I have a hi-life on my truck along with recovery gear for the beach. One of the items I keep hooks to the wheel and lifts it, then I can put a jack stand under the axle and lower it to remove the wheel.
The jack stand and hi-lift stabilizer is from SafeJack
I got the Wheel Mate off Amazon
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Old 08-26-2019, 02:34 PM   #9
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I find a 6 ton bottle jack has the necessary height and is easy to pump in the confined space under the trailer. It is compact and easy to store/carry.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:07 PM   #10
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Easy peasy

We carry a short ramp of two lengths of 2x10 cut to a 30-45 degree angle. For flat repair just pull whichever tire is still good onto the ramp and it will lift the flat high enuf to change. Since losing a wheel many years ago I always have a torque wrench and set of deep sockets and most often have a 4 way lug wrench too.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:17 PM   #11
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I have a large piece of block cut from an old RR tie. It works good in a stable location but I think I would be hesitant to use it on a heavily trafficked interstate. I just had one of my origional equipment Castle Rock tires blow out on I-77 just north of Columbia, SC. Traffic was heavy so I limped the rig off an exit which was luckily a few hundred feet ahead of us. I found a nice side road and was considering doing the change procedure. The Casltle Rocks were 8 ply with a max inflation of 65lbs and max speed of 70mph. I was keeping my speed at 60 to 65 mph max. I check pressure first thing in the am and always check torque.
Anyways, looking at the two year oldCastle Rocks and feeling how hot they were, I thought I will probably be switching them out sometime soon. My wife also had her doubts about them, then she pointed down the street and says: Why not just buy some better tires now? There was a Firestone Truck service shop. So we bought a set of 4 new Carlisle “E” radials which are 10 ply and have a greater weight bearing capability and a speed rating of 80mph. I have one Castle Rock which is the spare.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:24 PM   #12
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I'm like the OP. A SINGLE AXLE trailer.

I carry one of these in the trunk, its small and under 20lbs. Its easy to manuever and if I had to I could put it under the axle from the other side and jack up... it just would take a bit longer with shorter strokes on the piston:

https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ack-64874.html

I have plenty of small 2 x 4 wood pieces for the stab jacks to toss underneath the jack perpendicular to its frame to keep it from sinking. I have considered putting in a jack stand in case I have to take off both wheel at once for some reason :/
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:25 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blufrog1 View Post
We carry a short ramp of two lengths of 2x10 cut to a 30-45 degree angle. For flat repair just pull whichever tire is still good onto the ramp and it will lift the flat high enuf to change. Since losing a wheel many years ago I always have a torque wrench and set of deep sockets and most often have a 4 way lug wrench too.
Not so easy peasy as your post title suggests... the OP has said in post #6 they have a single axle trailer.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:25 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cabranch47 View Post
All very exciting on the edge of the interstate with the trailer rocking with each passing vehicle. Just glad it was not on the driver's side as there was no room to pull any further off the highway and I would have been in the roadway... could be life threatening in certain situations.



Since you had a blowout that destroyed the tire, would it not be prudent from a safety standpoint to continue on at low speed (4 way flashers and shoulder) until you can find a safer place to stop to change the tire?
Driving on a shredded tire is cheap compared to your life.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:31 PM   #15
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I would also go buy all new tires and hope you never need to use all that stuff too.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody View Post
I find a 6 ton bottle jack has the necessary height and is easy to pump in the confined space under the trailer. It is compact and easy to store/carry.
That's what I carry; works good for me.
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Old 08-26-2019, 04:40 PM   #17
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I have been fortunate to have been in my or my inlaws’ driveway on the several occasions when I had to change tires. I messed around wit a 12-ton bottle jack slid in between the front and rear tires. Tight fit due to how close the tires are. Later I found that the scissors jack and aftermarket cross lug wrench from my truck worked very well. It is much lighter and didn’t need shimming with wood blocks.
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:04 AM   #18
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Explain how this will work for a single axle trailer please...
(speaking about the plastic ramp designed for a dual axle mentioned above)
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Old 08-27-2019, 11:49 AM   #19
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7-year extended warranty including roadside assistance. I'm ready
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Old 08-27-2019, 12:00 PM   #20
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My wife carry's a big stick if I try, road service on her phone. Got way to many lumps in the past LOL
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