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06-23-2018, 03:08 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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Battery in-line fuse blows!
Just returned from a great trip to Yellowstone (6 Days) with our 2012 Rockwood 1910.
Upon our return when we went to lift the roof and the in-line fuse blew? Replaced it and the roof started up again, went up about 30% and blew again?
So now I figure I’ll raise the roof manually, (never tried before with this trailer) and opened the little “disc door” on the wench cover and insert the crank tool that came with our trailer originally, and began turning, after a few minutes I realized NOTHING was happening!? I put a marker on the lift wench line to see if it moved at all. After spending 3 - 4 minutes turning clockwise, and then 3 - 4 Minutes turning counter clockwise, nothing . . . No movement?
So, back to the fuse. I replaced the fuse and tried to raise the roof, again after 30% distance, the fuse blew again?
So, now I have two issues, the in-line battery fuse blows every time I use the wench, and I cannot manually raise the roof?
Please help, before I get ripped off by some repair guy!! AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!!
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06-23-2018, 03:57 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 239
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Can you manually "help" lift the roof with the motor running to see if you can at least get it raised? You might be able to feel a resistance while you are helping raise the roof that may point you where to look for your problem.
__________________
2017 Rockwood 2304DS Ultralite
2012 F-150 4X4 XLT 5.0 V8
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06-23-2018, 04:16 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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Rebeltown:
Not sure what you mean when you say "manually 'help' lift the roof with the motor running" do you mean get people on the four corners and try to lift as I crank?
The roof is all the way up at the moment, I replaced fuses (3) until it was up. So that is done. My issue now is advice on why the in-line battery fuse blows and why I cannot manually raise the roof?
I appreciate your reply and suggestion, we did not consider that.
Thanks.
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06-25-2018, 06:51 AM
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#4
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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Ok, manual lift solved. Got the cover off of the wench and put a drill with a 7/16 socket to it, it works. The rotation ratio is too much to ever do it by hand!
Still cannot figure out the blown fuse?
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06-25-2018, 06:58 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msalazar51
Ok, manual lift solved. Got the cover off of the wench and put a drill with a 7/16 socket to it, it works. The rotation ratio is too much to ever do it by hand!
Still cannot figure out the blown fuse?
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check the amp draw on the motor and check to see if the proper fuse are installed. Next standard size up from draw is ok.
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06-25-2018, 09:24 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cavie
check the amp draw on the motor and check to see if the proper fuse are installed. Next standard size up from draw is ok.
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Thanks for your response. How do I “check the amp draw” and why would we just start blowing fuses? It has been fine for over five years? Looking for all the help/advice I can get!
Thanks.
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06-25-2018, 09:30 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Quincy, WA
Posts: 1,507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msalazar51
Thanks for your response. How do I “check the amp draw” and why would we just start blowing fuses? It has been fine for over five years? Looking for all the help/advice I can get!
Thanks.
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Might your batteries be tired? Check voltage on batteries when you try the electric lift. If voltage drops below 10; I would suspect bad battery(ies)
You could also remove battery and have it load tested.
__________________
Ken and Kathy Redburn
2018 DX3 37TS (The Taj)
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06-25-2018, 10:10 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
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If the battery isn't fully charged or there's a loose connection it could cause the motor to draw enough current to blow the fuse. I'd have the battery load tested as KR suggested and check for loose connections.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
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06-25-2018, 10:29 AM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Port Charlotte Fl/Hinsdale Ma
Posts: 4,823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msalazar51
Thanks for your response. How do I “check the amp draw” and why would we just start blowing fuses? It has been fine for over five years? Looking for all the help/advice I can get!
Thanks.
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Amp draw should be listed on the motor. Borrow someones clamp on amp prob and see if it is close.
The motor might be bad and the fuse is doing its job.
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06-25-2018, 10:39 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
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Don't overlook mechanical issues. If the load on the motor is excessive due to sticking mechanism, lack of lube, etc, fuses can blow. Remember, you can upsize fuses to overcome the extra load but at some point a motor or wire will protest and you'll have a lot of smoke.
Might be good to check the operating mechanism for any sticking points or places that need lube that haven't received any for a long time.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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06-25-2018, 11:00 AM
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#11
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KRedburn
Might your batteries be tired? Check voltage on batteries when you try the electric lift. If voltage drops below 10; I would suspect bad battery(ies)
You could also remove battery and have it load tested.
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I’ll do that and post the results, thanks!
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06-25-2018, 11:03 AM
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#12
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
If the battery isn't fully charged or there's a loose connection it could cause the motor to draw enough current to blow the fuse. I'd have the battery load tested as KR suggested and check for loose connections.
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I’ll work on that and post the results! Thanks!!
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06-25-2018, 12:47 PM
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#13
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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I have a “Cen-Tech” 6/12 volt battery load tester. It indicates a weak battery. I am charging with a Stanley 6A Charger w/an 8A boost button. I will charge it and see what the load test says. Any thing in particular I need to look for?
Thanks for the help!
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06-25-2018, 04:29 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 2,832
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Suggest you buy a hydrometer at your local auto store ...fully charge....then test each cell and look for differences. Differences will indicate sulfated batteries which I suspect given the undersized charger.
__________________
________
Cam
2015 Georgetown 280DS
2019 Vespa Primavera 150's (pair)
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06-25-2018, 05:32 PM
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#15
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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So, I feel I have tried almost everything, and learning a lot here! I believe that the wench DOES NOT run off of shore power? When plugged in everything except the wench works? At this moment NOTHING is running on my 12v, despite the battery indicating a full charge, so no wench. When I connect my truck ONLY the wench works? Next step is to remove the battery and take it somewhere?
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06-25-2018, 06:22 PM
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#16
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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As TitanMike suggested, when was the last time you lubed the cable mechanism? When I had a popup years ago I had to crawl underneath and grease the cable tubes. It had grease zerks mid length of the tubes. A couple of pumps a year was what it called for.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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06-26-2018, 07:35 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 17
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We are all #10 greased up. Everything runs fine when connected to the truck. The entire system is up and running when connected to shore power, except the wench, the wench only works when connected to the truck. Nothing is running of of the 12v even though the battery when connected to a load check reads full and when put under a load drops to 10.7v. All should be fine? Next step, taking the battery in to be tested.
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06-26-2018, 04:45 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: North of Seattle, WA
Posts: 17,362
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msalazar51
We are all #10 greased up. Everything runs fine when connected to the truck. The entire system is up and running when connected to shore power, except the wench, the wench only works when connected to the truck. Nothing is running of of the 12v even though the battery when connected to a load check reads full and when put under a load drops to 10.7v. All should be fine? Next step, taking the battery in to be tested.
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When the wrench only works when connected to the truck it sounds like there is a break in the 12 v line feeding the wrench from the battery. Since it still works when connected to the truck make sure there is a good connection where the power wire from the truck joins the 12 V charge wire going to the battery and converter. I would look for a point where the three wires come together. 12 V from converter, 12V from Truck, and 12 V connection to wrench. On most units this would be in a junction box near the tongue.
I'm only speaking from a "schematic" point of view as I have an entirely different trailer but following the wires might reveal where the problem is.
__________________
"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change )
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06-26-2018, 05:01 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 293
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I think quite possibly TitanMike has the issue nailed. If no regular maintenance, cleaning, lubing etc of the mechanisms/slides etc have not been done, then the extra friction is causing the motors to work very hard, thereby drawing too much current. The factory lubes do not last forever and will thicken over time.
__________________
Alan
2012 Ram 3500 DRW Crew Cab, 6.7 HO Cummins
2014 Columbus M-340RK
'69 Chevy C-10, 396BB
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06-26-2018, 05:42 PM
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#20
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Just as confused as you
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: south central Wisconsin
Posts: 5,108
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It is your battery, your trailer is 6 yrs old, most batteries are good for about 5 years. Some cheaper ones are only good for 3 yrs. While connected to the TV the voltage is most likely 13 volts that's why it works fine then. It's actually the TV that is supplying the power, not your battery. It's the same with a converter if your popup has one, actually the converter should be 13.2 volts. You say that the voltage drops to 10.7 volts when you try to raise the roof while connected to shore power. Make sure the reverse polarity fuses are good as these can blow when you have a bad battery and check the breaker for the converter is not tripped. Another thing you should keep in mind is any battery voltage below 12 volts is basically a dead battery.
BTW, you did not mention that the wench works while connected to the TV until post #15, then again in post #17.
__________________
Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
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