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Old 05-30-2019, 02:16 PM   #21
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Yes Iíve taken the weight off the stabilizer jacks. Weíre camping 20 minutes from the dealer so I may go up there. I could put some weather stripping to fill the gap but Iíd like for it to be right weather itís something Iím doing or if itís the camper itself. This is our first trip with the camper so I want to nip it in the butt now rather than waiting.


Sounds like a good plan Jason, let us know how it turns out. Have a good day.
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:02 PM   #22
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Yes Iíve taken the weight off the stabilizer jacks. Weíre camping 20 minutes from the dealer so I may go up there. I could put some weather stripping to fill the gap but Iíd like for it to be right weather itís something Iím doing or if itís the camper itself. This is our first trip with the camper so I want to nip it in the butt now rather than waiting.
It's your camper and your money...

If there is a seal missing.. then fine.

I would level the RV best you can and see which is out of plumb. The door or the wall?

For the 12th time.. I would either fix it or have the dealer fix it.
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:07 PM   #23
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It's been a dozen years or more since I last slept in a pop-up but on that one when the door wasn't fitting properly I just pushed on either the ceiling or one of the lift arms to tweak it enough to eliminate the gap.
You have to realize that there is a fair amount of weight being held up by four collapsible arms. Things will shift.
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Old 05-30-2019, 03:59 PM   #24
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question: does the gap go away if you pull in the bed?
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:11 PM   #25
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I'll tell you exactly what's wrong as I had the same thing on the previous 2019 2716g. Mine wasn't as bad as yours but the angled frame made a large open gap at at the top between the frame and travel door when folded down for bees and wasps to make a home in the camper while dormant.

As my old 2716g, your door frame is put in wrong. You'll have to have service straighten, refasten, and recaulk your frame so that you don't have insect or water damage.

good luck
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:18 PM   #26
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I have the same problem with my hw296, where the space grows wider the further away from the floor you go. These frames flex a lot. I lower the stabilizers a bit at a time till the door lines up properly.
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Old 05-30-2019, 05:37 PM   #27
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Crack between door and camper

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Originally Posted by GalsofEscape View Post
question: does the gap go away if you pull in the bed?


I think I know where you are going with thisóif Jason answered yes he may need to adjust the bed support poles up a notch or two to relieve some of the pressure caused by the bed as itís cantilevered out. I didnít think of that. Good point.
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Old 05-31-2019, 05:12 AM   #28
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I think I know where you are going with thisóif Jason answered yes he may need to adjust the bed support poles up a notch or two to relieve some of the pressure caused by the bed as itís cantilevered out. I didnít think of that. Good point.
Yes, the bed may be pulling the front wall. I had that with my hw277. If adjusting the supports doesnt work, he may have to add bracing to the front wall.
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Old 05-31-2019, 06:27 AM   #29
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I have the same type of P/U as Op has only it's a Flaggstaff. It is new, got it in April and my door fits tight, after I go out and push in on the sides of the door where they insert into the wall. My last P/U the door fit like a glove. I have found that if the camper is not level, as best as I can get it, the door is harder to insert in the wall. All campers have their quirks and some we can live with as others we can't. Good Luck and I hope you find a resolution you can live with.
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Old 05-31-2019, 06:54 AM   #30
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Take a tape measurer and measure across the Top, Middle, Bottom of the door and see if the frame is even square. Very possible the frame is bowed in the middle causing the gap. Screen may be pulling the door frame in at the sides. I've done that replacing screen on my windows at home. Get the screen too tight and it pulls the frame in at the middle.
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Old 05-31-2019, 07:59 PM   #31
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Take a tape measurer and measure across the Top, Middle, Bottom of the door and see if the frame is even square. Very possible the frame is bowed in the middle causing the gap. Screen may be pulling the door frame in at the sides. I've done that replacing screen on my windows at home. Get the screen too tight and it pulls the frame in at the middle.


I did measure and it is 3/8 out from bottom to top of the camper wall. I guess over 23 1/2(the wall height) 3/8 is a lot.
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Old 05-31-2019, 08:04 PM   #32
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I did measure and it is 3/8 out from bottom to top of the camper wall. I guess over 23 1/2(the wall height) 3/8 is a lot.


Also measured the door corner to corner and itís 1/4Ē difference so the door is out 1/8Ē
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Old 06-01-2019, 07:53 AM   #33
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For the way those doors fit, 3/8" could be the difference between a seal or light coming thru. I'll bet if I measured my door on our TT, 3/8" would allow a gap to be visible along the edge.
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:35 PM   #34
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We had a 277 HW for about 2 1/2 years. We encountered the same problem time after time until I realized that I was racking the box with the stabilizers. With the stabilizers up, the door fit into the frame neatly. But using a drill to lower them, I would have a 1/4" to 1/2" gap between the left side of the door and the wall of the box. Playing with the stabilitizers helped to take care of that.
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Old 06-04-2019, 07:37 AM   #35
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I wonder if and how adjusting the top with the cables adjuster effect the door gap?

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Old 06-04-2019, 03:17 PM   #36
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I did measure and it is 3/8 out from bottom to top of the camper wall. I guess over 23 1/2(the wall height) 3/8 is a lot.
Yep just like mine was until the factory straightened the frame and resealed it.
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