Originally Posted by Tammy Briggs
Our fridge is not working. Not working on gas or battery. We’ve checked fuses and changed the 30 amp fuse. Even the check light doesn’t come on. All other lights and power are working. We’ve tried locating the reset button in the panel but can’t seem to find it. Any suggestions?
The fridge has 3 modes, AC (default when AC power is present), gas, and DC. On the front panel, there is an on/off button on the left. There are mode buttons, and an "auto" button. When in auto, the fridge uses AC if AC power is available. If no AC, fridge tries to light LP burner (you can hear the clicking of the igniter) and run on LP. If in auto, and no AC present, and won't light LP, the fridge gives up. Cycle the power on and off to reset.
We run fridge in "auto" all the time, which means propane must be turned on when towing or camping. If AC is available, fridge runs on that. If not, stays on propane. Our fridge is slightly more powerful on AC than on propane. I never use DC mode.
The only way to know fridge is running is to hear the igniter clicking when on LP. After 20 minutes in any working mode, the chimney (access through upper outside vent) will get warm/hot to touch.
The Dometic RM2354 manual (.pdf) is available on the Dometic web site. Worth reading. If you look at the installation instructions, you will find Forest River never gave the fridge a chance to work properly with their poor installation. On my 2354, I started by getting a wireless thermometer ($10 at Walmart) so I could tell what temp I actually had inside the fridge. I then stuffed the air gaps around the sides and top of the fridge with fiberglass insulation and sealed the stuffed gaps with pieces of Reflectix and furnace duct tape. I installed a 45 copper elbow on the chimney stack to point the LP exhaust to the exhaust vent. I then domed off the top of fridge compartment with Reflectix running from behind cooling fins across to top of the exhaust vent. You want to seal off the upper space behind the fridge that just serves to trap hot air. You want air flow from lower vent through the cooling fins and out the upper vent, including the hot air from the chimney. Then I adjusted the baffle to meet Dometic specs, which forces cooling air through the fins. Finally, I added 2 12V 120mm 1200 RPM computer case fans mounted directly on the exhaust grill (mine are 70ma and $12 each) to blow air out. Inside the fridge I use a Camco fan powered by 2 D cells ($20 for a $1 item) to circulate air.
With the changes, I get fridge temps to 32 deg on the "5" setting in a day, back it off to "4" or "3" to avoid freezing in the fridge section on more than a one day trip. If outside temps are below 60s, I turn the exhaust fans off. It takes about 12 hours to pull down from 80 to below 40 inside when I start the fridge up. The inside fan keeps temps pretty consistent on all shelves.
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame with 2354 fridge
2022 Hyundai Palisade