We have had 2 Rockwood/Flagstaff A-frames for the past 7 years. Systems are very similar to the pop-ups.
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Originally Posted by DaveAndCamCamping
1) I went to fill the freshwater tank, and it seemed like I was only able to put in a few gallons of water. I believe our tank holds about 20 gallons, but after just a little while the water started backing up and coming back out of the Spicket. I tried a clean skinny hose and went down the tube on the farther, but it still came out. What am I missing? Why am I not able to fill that whole time with water?
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The water tank vent on pop-ups and A-frames is usually a small hose parallel to the fill that opens under the fill cap. You just cannot fill the tank with full flow - it can't vent fast enough. I use a Camco device on the end of my garden hose that allows me to control how fast the water is going into the tank. It's a clear plastic tube with a plastic valve and a hose screw-on. I normally use the valve at about 45deg to fill the tank.
It is quite possible that your tank vent (or fill) hose is kinked, which would make max fill rate even less. So crawl underneath and make sure neither fill nor vent hose is kinked. Looking underneath, the tank is translucent enough you can see the water level in it.
Filling the water tank does NOT fill the water heater. Your water tank is 20 gal, your water heater is 6 gal. So if you do not fill the water heater first, when you turn the pump on, the first 6 gal goes to the water heater. after I fill my water tank, I turn on the pump and open the outside shower hot water valve until water flows. This fills the water heater. I turn off the pump for trailering, and refill the water tank (until water comes out the fill).
Finally, the dealer should have put some water in the tank (and water heater) during the PDI (pre-delivery inspection) to show you everything worked.
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2) I lit the pilot light for the gas to run the refrigerator, and turned it up to high. I checked in the pilot light hole and it is lit, and I can feel heat coming out of the exhaust. However, the refrigerator is still not getting cold, not even close. Do I just need to be patient? Is there something that takes like a whole day to get cold?
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I spent a lot of time getting my A-frame fridges to work consistently. Here's a link to the thread:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ge-104964.html
The executive summary: Rockwood/Flagstaff do a horrible job of installing the fridges in their pop-ups/A-frames. And the Dometic plastic vent covers are total pieces of crap when it comes to enabling the necessary air flow for the fridges to work properly.
If you want your fridge to cool down in 12 hours or less under all conditions, do the following:
1) Get a battery wireless outside thermometer from Walmart (about $10) so you can measure actual temperatures inside the fridge without opening the door.
2) Go inside the top outside fridge vent and fix any obvious impediments to getting heat out of the fridge compartment - make sure the chimney exhaust faces the vent, seal off areas above the vent where hot air can get trapped, etc.
3) Install a 12V computer case fan on the exhaust vent to blow air out. I get the quietest, lowest current, low RPM 120mm fan I can (usually 21db, 70-80ma, 420cfm) find. I mount it directly to the plastic grill with extra wire so I can remove the grill cover with the fan attached. Put a switch where it's convenient (you won't want the fan running in 40 deg outside temps).
4) Get the Camco D cell powered fan ($20) for inside the fridge. It's perfect for small fridges. This really helps reduce the recovery time after the fridge door is opened, and speeds up initial cool down.
If you do the above, you will have to back off the fridge settings from max cool after the 1st or 2nd day. Otherwise, you will freeze contents.
hope this helps
Fred W
now 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
prev 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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