Fridge operation in Freedom 2280

[fkiehner]

Quick question on the fridge in my popup. It has 3 way operation. My question is which switches need to be on for operation? I know if using propane I need the dc and ac switches off. If I am using dc but no ac, can I leave the ac switch on? If both the ac and dc switches are on and I am using ac hookup, will it run off the ac only? Just trying to figure out how to set the switches. Thinking if I boondock, dc on (if using my solar panel to keep the battery charged) or propane. Campground with ac means dc switch off and propane off. The sticker inside the outside cover says only one source at a time, so I guess I need to decide at setup what I am going to use.
Wish it was an automatic switching unit, then I wouldnt have this issue.
Thanks in advance,
Frank K

[Scrapper]

You need to study the booklet for the fridge that came with your popup. If you don't have a booklet you can find it by looking up the make and model of the refrigerator on google.

The control board in every 2-way (AC or LP) or 3-way (AC, DC, or LP) fridge needs 12vdc from the batteries whether using it on 120vac, 12vdc or LP to operate the unit. Most RV fridges have a AUTO switch that automatically uses whatever source is available. You can use a 3 or 4 cu ft residential (120AC only) refrigerator in a popup, but if you are boondocking you will still need an inverter connected to your batteries to supply the necessary 120vac.

[pgandw]

From OP's description of the controls and the lack of "HW" in his camper model, the fridge is a Dometic continuous run fridge used in the standard height pop-ups and A-frames. Ignore what Scrapper said, there is NO DC control board. Whatever mode is switched on, the fridge runs continuously. There is no thermostat, and no automatic start.

I do highly recommend a wireless thermometer in the fridge to help adjust AC or propane for desired temp. DC mode is non-adjustable.

From my experience with these continuous run fridges, you do NOT want to have more than one mode switched on at the same time. In my 2000 Coleman Westlake, there was actually a mechanical interlock between the DC and AC switches and the gas valve. The Forest River install does not have this interlock - the AC and DC switches are at the top vent, and the propane controls are at the bottom vent.

The problem with having more than one mode on at a time is overheating the chimney and the ammonia agent. The saving grace of accidentally leaving the AC mode on is that if there is no AC, there is no heating of the chimney from AC. But DC will work as long as there some charge in the battery OR the camper is plugged in (converter powers the DC mode) OR the tow vehicle is connected.

Once you get used to changing the fridge mode as you change from towing to camping and back, changing the fridge mode becomes part of your setup/fold down sequence. My sequence looked like this:

24-48 hours before departure: plug in camper to AC, fridge on AC max to pre-cool and load
at departure: unplug camper, fridge on DC for towing.
while towing: monitor temp, turn off fridge DC mode if temps get into 20s (I found 4+ hours on DC would take fridge below freezing while towing if outside temps were below 85)
arrival at campsite: turn off fridge DC (to save battery charge).
during/after setup: turn fridge on propane (AC if electric available). Use max cool to start, turn down to mid-range before/after 1st night as fridge temp approaches freezing.
at fold down: turn off propane/AC modes; turn on DC mode for towing
arrival at home: turn off DC; unload fridge. Plug camper in for 2 days to fully recharge battery.

hope this helps
Fred W
prev: 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
now: 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame (high wall has conventional RV fridge)
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[Iowa Frogfarmer]

If you have the 2.5 cubic foot model #RM4223 here is link to manual. https://cdn.dometic.com/assets/17/47...7.pdf?att=true
If you have the 1.9 cubic for model RM2193 here is that manual:https://cdn.dometic.com/assets/17/49...9.pdf?att=true

[Bama Rambler]

Just FYI on those fridges. These quotes are from the manuals.

DO NOT Attempt to run the refrigerator by gas and electric at the same time. Always ensure that one method of operation is turned off before using the alternate energy source.

NOTE: NEVER OPERATE THE REFRIGERATOR ON MORE THAN ONE ENERGY SOURCE AT A TIME.

[fkiehner]

Thanks to everyone for the help. Fred thanks for your 'checklist'. I think I will print that out and keep it with the popup. From what I can read, this is the way to go. Also the propane, dc and ac controls are all at the same location so it makes it easy to control.
Thanks again everyone!
Frank K

[Detourkid]

Originally Posted by pgandw

From OP's description of the controls and the lack of "HW" in his camper model, the fridge is a Dometic continuous run fridge used in the standard height pop-ups and A-frames. Ignore what Scrapper said, there is NO DC control board. Whatever mode is switched on, the fridge runs continuously. There is no thermostat, and no automatic start.

I do highly recommend a wireless thermometer in the fridge to help adjust AC or propane for desired temp. DC mode is non-adjustable.

From my experience with these continuous run fridges, you do NOT want to have more than one mode switched on at the same time. In my 2000 Coleman Westlake, there was actually a mechanical interlock between the DC and AC switches and the gas valve. The Forest River install does not have this interlock - the AC and DC switches are at the top vent, and the propane controls are at the bottom vent.

The problem with having more than one mode on at a time is overheating the chimney and the ammonia agent. The saving grace of accidentally leaving the AC mode on is that if there is no AC, there is no heating of the chimney from AC. But DC will work as long as there some charge in the battery OR the camper is plugged in (converter powers the DC mode) OR the tow vehicle is connected.

Once you get used to changing the fridge mode as you change from towing to camping and back, changing the fridge mode becomes part of your setup/fold down sequence. My sequence looked like this:

24-48 hours before departure: plug in camper to AC, fridge on AC max to pre-cool and load
at departure: unplug camper, fridge on DC for towing.
while towing: monitor temp, turn off fridge DC mode if temps get into 20s (I found 4+ hours on DC would take fridge below freezing while towing if outside temps were below 85)
arrival at campsite: turn off fridge DC (to save battery charge).
during/after setup: turn fridge on propane (AC if electric available). Use max cool to start, turn down to mid-range before/after 1st night as fridge temp approaches freezing.
at fold down: turn off propane/AC modes; turn on DC mode for towing
arrival at home: turn off DC; unload fridge. Plug camper in for 2 days to fully recharge battery.

hope this helps
Fred W
prev: 2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
now: 2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame (high wall has conventional RV fridge)
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

Great info..
I will be doing this