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Old 09-19-2020, 09:47 PM   #1
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Furnace Wonít Kick Back on

I have a 2017 rockwood HW296 with a Suburban 20k btu furnace. I was able get it to kick on twice but after it kicked off the 2nd time it wonít kick back on. Iíve turned the thermostat off and then back on and nothing. Propane tanks are full and pressure appears to be good based on pressure from burners on the stove. Not sure what else to check any help would be appreciated.


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Old 09-19-2020, 10:13 PM   #2
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We had this same experience. The front plate of our thermostat pulls off; it is a touch sensitive type of thermostat/faceplate. The circuit board on the wall has 3 spades that the faceplate plug into. We found a poor connection between the spades and the faceplate was the problem. Cleaned the spades, pushed the faceplate on and removed it 3 or 4 times, put the faceplate back on. The furnace worked perfectly after that.

Our fifth wheel is a Wildcat by Forest River.

If your thermostat is similar, this might be your issue.
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Old 09-20-2020, 12:15 AM   #3
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A good battery/12vdc is also needed to run the furnace. I had a similar problem, using a undersized car battery/with no shore power.
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:25 AM   #4
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Barriers are good and also plugged into shore power. It finally kicked in last night after to posted the issue but won’t kick on again this morning. It’s the old manual thermostat not the digital. What is the dial or adjustment in the middle for? I tried to attach a picture of it but can’t figure out how.
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Old 09-20-2020, 07:26 AM   #5
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Here it is
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Old 09-20-2020, 09:08 AM   #6
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It seems like a thermostat problem. Maybe just buy a cheap Honeywell thermostat and replace the current one?
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Old 09-20-2020, 12:38 PM   #7
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Furnace Won't Kick On

Hi!
Did the blower come on and then shut off with no heat?
If so it is likely the sail switch -a simple click on/off switch that calls for the propane.
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Old 09-20-2020, 02:20 PM   #8
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Anticipator

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Originally Posted by Novajay View Post
Here it is
That little wheel is the anticipator (that's what people in the trade call it). What it does is set the gap (hysteresis) between when the furnace goes on and when it goes off.

For example, if you have the thermostat set at 72, it might actually heat to 73 and go off. It could wait until the temperature drops to 71 before going on. If you didn't have it, the furnace would start and stop frequently with very short on- and off-times. If you had it set too high, the furnace would run for very long times and then go off for long times, with resultant wide swings in temperature.

Best thing to do is to leave it at 0.8 or make TINY changes.

A broken anticipator will not cause the furnace to stop--it will just have frequent, short on/off cycles.
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Old 09-20-2020, 04:39 PM   #9
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Remove the thermostat to access wires. Remove one wire and touch it to the other wire, if the thermostat is bad or intermittent the furnace will start. Try it several times to confirm.
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Old 09-20-2020, 06:54 PM   #10
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Below is a link from the library in the green line at the top of the page. There is lots of information about how to take care of your RV. The link below has information about trouble shooting and how the furnace works. Go to page 23 for trouble shooting.
Open the link and download it. It may take a minute or so then you can open it.
If it dose nothing when you turn the furnace on my guess would be sail switch, thermostat, thermostat wiring.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...?do=file&id=67

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Old 09-21-2020, 09:04 AM   #11
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I had the same problem, checked all the above things, was getting ready to take the furnace out. Then I pulled the furnace mini fuse on the power panel and replaced it. And the furnace worked fine.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ross0547 View Post
Hi!
Did the blower come on and then shut off with no heat?
If so it is likely the sail switch -a simple click on/off switch that calls for the propane.

No the blower didnít come on. The weird thing is after turning it off and on several times it finally kicked on.
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:30 PM   #13
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Remove the thermostat to access wires. Remove one wire and touch it to the other wire, if the thermostat is bad or intermittent the furnace will start. Try it several times to confirm.
I’ll do that, can the thermostat be replaced with a digital one? Or do I need to use the same factory one?
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Old 09-21-2020, 09:41 PM   #14
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I’ll do that, can the thermostat be replaced with a digital one? Or do I need to use the same factory one?
Any digital thermostat advertised as working with "millivolt" systems should work. The thermostat will need a battery to run its display, compared to the existing mechanical one, but that's no hardship. Suitable ones from name brands like Honeywell are available for around $20 from Amazon and Home Depot.
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Old 09-22-2020, 08:09 AM   #15
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This is the model thermostat I have. Honeywell TH1100DV1000, It will fit in the small recessed area common to this type of camper.
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Old 09-22-2020, 10:34 AM   #16
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Sail switch

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Originally Posted by ross0547 View Post
Hi!
Did the blower come on and then shut off with no heat?
If so it is likely the sail switch -a simple click on/off switch that calls for the propane.
Everyone likes to point to the sail switch, but I don't think I've ever heard of one that was actually bad.

And you can get the same symptom from a clogged duct or return area that chokes off the air flow.

In older RVs, the most common furnace cause is failure to ignite due to propane regulator failure. The SF-series is extremely fussy about having 11-14" (water column) of gas pressure (about 1/2 psi). The water heater will work fine; the range will work fine (actually it has an internal secondary regulator), but the furnace won't ignite. It takes three tries and quits. To retry you must turn the thermostat to Off, then back to heat, remove/replace the fuse, or otherwise remove and restore power.

When I had this condition (regulator was actually providing about 10" w.c., IIRC), I could get the furnace to ignite and properly operate by removing the front cover which allows more airflow, but of course all the hot air was at the furnace, not coming through the ducts.
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Old 10-16-2020, 08:25 PM   #17
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I replaced the factory manual thermostat with the honey well you suggested. After turning on and off a few times it finally kicked on. Now it’s set to 65 and shows 62 temp inside and hasn’t kicked on yet. I swapped out the propane tank for a new one also. So not sure what else to check.
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Old 10-17-2020, 12:33 PM   #18
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When you say "kicked on" I assume you mean the fan starts up. And then in a few seconds after the sail switch confirms proper airflow, THEN you should hear another click from a propane valve to start the gas flow, THEN there should be a faint click of a spark igniter to get the flame going. If the flame sensor fails to detect a good flame right after the spark attempt, the control board will shut it off and try again, perhaps three times, then it gives up permanently until you cycle the thermostat or power again.

What you need to do is observe and listen very carefully for the sounds of the gas valve and spark ignition.

You could still have a fault of the sail switch, gas valve, ignition circuit or control board. The only thing you can rule out so far is you have main power 12V going to it if the main blower fan starts up. If the main blower fan is weak or its airflow is disrupted, the airflow won't be enough to satisfy the sail switch that it's safe to continue the ignition process.
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Old 10-17-2020, 07:25 PM   #19
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The fan doesn’t kick on. When you turn on the thermostat you hear a faint beep but that’s it. I just tried it again just about 10 mins ago and finally kicked on after I removed the front grill. Not sure if that had anything to do with it.
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