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Old 10-20-2020, 04:08 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by A.Brewer View Post
Here are the wires ... I can't figure out what size gauge they are but my best guess is:

1X 8 gauge Black (negative - main camper power)

1x 10 gauge Black ( ground wire?)

1x 10 gauge Red ( power roof winch)

1x 10 gauge Red ( positive - main camper power)

1x 12 gauge Red (power Jack)

5 total.


I will purchase a 12 volt 30 amp circuit breaker
The 4mm˛ is #12 AWG.

I don't see any size (mm˛) markings on the rest of the cables. Are there any on them?
6mm˛ would be a #10 AWG.
10mm˛ would be a #8 AWG.
16mm˛ would be a #6 AWG.
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Old 10-20-2020, 07:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
The 4mm˛ is #12 AWG.

I don't see any size (mm˛) markings on the rest of the cables. Are there any on them?
6mm˛ would be a #10 AWG.
10mm˛ would be a #8 AWG.
16mm˛ would be a #6 AWG.
Here's a chart that gives awg by the diameter of the conductor.

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Old 10-20-2020, 09:35 PM   #23
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If the existing wires are of any decent quality to start with.

They should be marked as to the gauge. You may need to clean them off and get a magnifying glass but look for markings that read like:

Wire size: Indicated by a number (such as 12, for 12-gauge) or a number followed by "AWG," for American Wire Gauge.

Good Luck!
Agreed. All wire jackets (coverings) have the wire gauge imprinted in the jacket. It can be somewhat faint, so clean the wires and use a flashlight at a low angle, and the markings (usually stamped into the jacket) will pop right out.
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Old 10-21-2020, 03:58 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Brewer View Post
Here are the wires ... I can't figure out what size gauge they are but my best guess is:

1X 8 gauge Black (negative - main camper power)

1x 10 gauge Black ( ground wire?)

1x 10 gauge Red ( power roof winch)

1x 10 gauge Red ( positive - main camper power)

1x 12 gauge Red (power Jack)

5 total.


I will purchase a 12 volt 30 amp circuit breaker
Many of the crimp on connectors will fit several sixes of wire, so it should be easy to find them. Just be sure the eyelet is large enough to fit over the post that you will be setting it over on the battery.

And get yourself a good crimper. Those wire stripper/crimpers do not do a good enough job to keep the eyelets from sliding off. Harbor Freight sells one that is not too expensive.

https://harborfreight.com/9-12-in-wi...ool-63989.html
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:26 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
Many of the crimp on connectors will fit several sixes of wire, so it should be easy to find them. Just be sure the eyelet is large enough to fit over the post that you will be setting it over on the battery.

And get yourself a good crimper. Those wire stripper/crimpers do not do a good enough job to keep the eyelets from sliding off. Harbor Freight sells one that is not too expensive.

https://harborfreight.com/9-12-in-wi...ool-63989.html
The tool you link to only goes to 10 gauge wire - a common problem of most big box crimpers. Properly crimping wire 8 gauge or larger requires more "squeeze" than just a plier-style crimper can provide. Gearing and/or ratcheting is normally needed to properly crimp 8 gauge and larger.

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Old 10-21-2020, 10:31 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by pgandw View Post
The tool you link to only goes to 10 gauge wire - a common problem of most big box crimpers. Properly crimping wire 8 gauge or larger requires more "squeeze" than just a plier-style crimper can provide. Gearing and/or ratcheting is normally needed to properly crimp 8 gauge and larger.

Fred W
She could actually buy this pack of two lugs. Put all the hots under one and the negatives under the other. Wrap the hots well with tape of course, or liquid tape and she would be all set. No crimping necessary and no crimpers needed

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Blackburn-2...r-Lugs/4582297

She may have to drill out the hole for the threaded terminal or screw it directly into the top of the large lead terminal on the battery

Or use something like this, probably easier yet:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...lacement&pos=0
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:15 AM   #27
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Thumbs up UPDATE - Complete

Thanks everyone for your time and suggestions.

I was able to fix the wires and winterize my camper yesterday. whoop whoot!!

The last thing I need to order is one of those 12 v 30 amp circuit breakers.

JOB - Complete!!

Andrea
PS. Battery is in the house on a trickle charger for the winter
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Old 10-21-2020, 11:54 AM   #28
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Great news. Thanks for coming back and letting us know you got it sorted out and are back in business!
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Old 10-21-2020, 08:42 PM   #29
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Awesome!
As mentioned, thanks for following through and letting us know the outcome.
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Old 10-27-2020, 03:43 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Brewer View Post
Thanks everyone for your time and suggestions.

I was able to fix the wires and winterize my camper yesterday. whoop whoot!!

The last thing I need to order is one of those 12 v 30 amp circuit breakers.

JOB - Complete!!

Andrea
PS. Battery is in the house on a trickle charger for the winter

A trickle charger will overcharge your battery in time. Pick up a Battery Maintainer. It's much better and not expensive. We're in Texas for 6 months every winter and I use one on our car and tractor. They both start right up in the Spring.
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:12 AM   #31
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battery theft prevention

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Master-Lock...e-Lock/3020162

For the future, this is an inexpensive way to help prevent another theft.
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:39 AM   #32
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Lock up everything

I lock my hitch, propane tank, Progressive voltage protector and my battery with both the metal bracket (easy to make) and a bicycle lock to slow down any thief.
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Old 10-27-2020, 11:49 AM   #33
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A trickle charger will overcharge your battery in time. Pick up a Battery Maintainer. It's much better and not expensive. We're in Texas for 6 months every winter and I use one on our car and tractor. They both start right up in the Spring.
Battery tender Jr. won't overcharge your battery. I use them on my trailer, motorcycle and lawn mower in winter. Also my truck during times of the year we aren't using it for a few weeks.
$25 at Wally world and Amazon.
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:11 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by MapMan View Post
I lock my hitch, propane tank, Progressive voltage protector and my battery with both the metal bracket (easy to make) and a bicycle lock to slow down any thief.

Ours is a 40 foot 5th wheel and the jack controls, propane tanks, surge protector and batteries are all inside and we keep the doors locked. Never lost anything in 57 years of RV'ing in 47 states and 7 provinces, although we did have 2 vehicles that left them unlocked last year and someone swiped 2 guns. Then 4 years ago a guy left 2 brand new fishing poles out in plain sight and they came up missing so it does happen. Everyone leaves most things like grills, chairs etc outside overnight. I will say if you come to the door of a whole lot of RV'ers, and break in and try to do bodily harm, there's a good chance you'll need an ambulance.
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Old 10-27-2020, 12:53 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A.Brewer View Post
Here are the wires ... I can't figure out what size gauge they are but my best guess is:

1X 8 gauge Black (negative - main camper power)

1x 10 gauge Black ( ground wire?)

1x 10 gauge Red ( power roof winch)

1x 10 gauge Red ( positive - main camper power)

1x 12 gauge Red (power Jack)

5 total.


I will purchase a 12 volt 30 amp circuit breaker

For what it is worth, every RV I have ever owned has 6 gauge (AWG) wire attached to the battery. I have never seen battery wire that wasn't marked with its specs every 3 feet or so.
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Old 10-27-2020, 01:53 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by PhilFromMaine View Post
For what it is worth, every RV I have ever owned has 6 gauge (AWG) wire attached to the battery. I have never seen battery wire that wasn't marked with its specs every 3 feet or so.
This is about a pop-up in the pop-up forum. Most all pop-ups and A-frames have 30 amp converters (a few have smaller), and don't need #6 wires to the battery. The 2 FR A-frames I have owned use 8ga wiring from converter to battery.

MOST 16+ga wire since about 2005 is marked. But certainly not all. And the markings aren't always legible if they are there.

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