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Old 01-01-2019, 03:16 PM   #1
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Help with the door

We recently bought a 2019 Rockwood tent camper Premeir, model 2716G. Is there a group for that make/model? Our dealership service department isn't any help. We have horrible trouble attaching the entrance door when we set up. The youtube video makes it look easy. I was wondering if anyone else is having trouble or what is it that we are doing wrong.
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Old 01-01-2019, 03:37 PM   #2
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Ok...so describe “horrible trouble “?
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Old 01-01-2019, 04:13 PM   #3
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Set the door before setting the ends up. It’s easier.
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Old 01-01-2019, 04:18 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcthoresen View Post
We recently bought a 2019 Rockwood tent camper Premeir, model 2716G. Is there a group for that make/model? Our dealership service department isn't any help. We have horrible trouble attaching the entrance door when we set up. The youtube video makes it look easy. I was wondering if anyone else is having trouble or what is it that we are doing wrong.
FR RV only makes Popups, under the Rockwood/Flagstaff brand lines. They are exact twin brands, except for outside graphics and interior decor and made on the same assembly line.
So they actually only make one line of Popups. That's why there's no separate popup brand sub-forums.
So this Tent Camper/Popup group is the place for your questions.
Also you can contact FR for a different dealer to take it to.
Or take it to an independent RV shop or mobile RV tech, as long as you get pre-approval from FR and be willing to be reimbursed.
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Old 01-01-2019, 04:42 PM   #5
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Quote:
We have horrible trouble attaching the entrance door when we set up.
Without a better description of your difficulties I will ask if you have leveled the camper with the screw down stabilizers and used a 2 or 3 foot level on the FLOOR to make sure the camper is level both side to side and front to back BEFORE you do any setup?

I would think that inserting the door into a non-level camper would be difficult in so far as the doorway may not have squared off corners.

These types of trailers do have some flex in them and if the corners of the campers are not all on the same plane thru a leveling procedure then the door would be difficult to install.

Really the provided video SHOULD give leveling the camper a more important role then I saw.

If this does not help your situation, then try a better description or taking a picture of your difficulty when replying.

hope this helps...
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Old 01-01-2019, 08:52 PM   #6
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Thank you. We have levelers on the outside but next time I'll bring my 3 foot level for the inside. It must have to be perfectly level for the door to fit and clip in easily. It's our first pop-up. The door is the only thing giving me grief.
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Old 01-01-2019, 09:40 PM   #7
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a popup camper is a perfect starting camper... after tent camping for 30 years I bought a popup to see how much it would be used. Well after about the 4th year the wife and I decided that the setup and take down was too much for short stays of either overnight or even 2-3 days. With packing up our supplies into the camper, tearing it down and securing everything and finally hooking up to leave, well we were clocking a little over an hour, even longer in hot humid weather.

We then sold it and went for a hybrid popOUT camper. The tent ends (we have 3) and the stabilizing only take about 15 minutes and that is with taking out our folding chairs and camping tables (a side table 2x4 and a larger 3 x 5 table) that we carry inside the camper.

The SUV we used to pull the popup was very adequate, but after a couple of years pulling the heavier hybrid I upgraded to a 1500 RAM crew cab with more power, cargo loading and payload capacity.

Hopefully you will get to know your popup and learn all of the tricks to using it efficiently and enjoying your time outdoors.

One thing you may want to consider right upfront is to search here on awning stabilizers... that is tie-down straps fastened to the ground and to the outside edge of the awning to keep your awning from flying up and over the camper when that unexpected strong wind/rain comes sweeping thru the campground and you are away from the camper.

You might also want to invest in a cheap battery operated drill and a socket to use when cranking on the stabilizers. At the touch of a button your stabs go up and down really quickly.

You can learn much on this forum. Read about tent (bunk) end canvas and vinyl cleaning and maintenance and tent condensation issues in some weather conditions on here too. Read and learn...

Have fun...
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Old 01-01-2019, 09:44 PM   #8
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I put the door in first before lowering the stabilizers. This stops me from flexing the ends before putting the door in place.

If you put the stabilizers down first, don't do anything more than kiss the ground with them. If you put them down tighter, you flex the frame and change clearances at the doorway.

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Old 01-01-2019, 11:56 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgandw View Post
I put the door in first before lowering the stabilizers. This stops me from flexing the ends before putting the door in place.

If you put the stabilizers down first, don't do anything more than kiss the ground with them. If you put them down tighter, you flex the frame and change clearances at the doorway.

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I'll second this comment. I had a horrible time getting the door to fit on my 2019 HW 276. Even after getting perfectly level, even kissing the ground with the jacks would sometimes cause enough change to not allow the door to fit. So now I put the door in and then put the stabilizer jacks down. Has worked well.
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Old 01-02-2019, 06:32 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by pgandw View Post
I put the door in first before lowering the stabilizers. This stops me from flexing the ends before putting the door in place.

If you put the stabilizers down first, don't do anything more than kiss the ground with them. If you put them down tighter, you flex the frame and change clearances at the doorway.

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I forgot to add - do not put the awning up before putting the door in place. Using the poles on the awning, or staking it similarly makes subtle changes to the door way, and the ends, and raising the roof. If you need to put the awning out first because of reach issues, just let it hang until the roof is up, ends are out, and door is in.

Stabilizers and awnings are after the basic setup.

This is true with A-frames, too. If there is any pressure on the stabilizers, the side panels won't latch correctly.

Yes, I love PUPs and A-frames.

just my experiences
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Old 01-02-2019, 01:31 PM   #11
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Same problem here is what I did

Exact same problem. Along with some of the other suggestions try raising the roof a little more than the tension cable allows and it will go in easy. I had to unscrew the cable screw a little to raise it higher. This will work.
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Old 01-02-2019, 08:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcthoresen View Post
We recently bought a 2019 Rockwood tent camper Premeir, model 2716G. Is there a group for that make/model? Our dealership service department isn't any help. We have horrible trouble attaching the entrance door when we set up. The youtube video makes it look easy. I was wondering if anyone else is having trouble or what is it that we are doing wrong.
That's the worst design IMO. If you are tall, putting up the one piece door is terrible, if you're short it's doable. I have to squat down just to get the door over my head, put the bottom outside of the camper and then pull the bottom into the camper door frame. Then turn the plastic clasps.

My 2007 Starcraft 2406 had a 2 piece door and was strong, stable, acted as a one piece door, never opened by itself, and was super easy to assemble in 5 seconds! These 1 piece doors SUCK. My 2005 Rockwood had the same 1 piece door as this 2019 Rockwood and it's just as bad setting it up if not worse.

Just getting the door down is the hardest. Someone commented instead of putting it forward of your body, with you inside and the door pointing toward the outside, that you need to be on the outside of the door and put it in when your body is outside of the camper, then open it and come in, and turn clasps.

The door and slide are the worst part of the camper as they don't fit right and take a lot of time fighting with them.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:01 PM   #13
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Thank you so much!!! It worked!!!! The door went in with out any trouble!! We went camping for the weekend and noticed a little water on the floor by the king bed next to the toilet. I think it was coming from the toilet. I was putting a little water after flushing for the next time. So I guess the toilet has to be empty after a flush. No standing water? It appears there's a double seal there. I'm guessing the seal isn't meant to keep water in the toilet. I don't know. I didn't get to investigate since we had another issue. I'm going to have to set it up next weekend in the driveway and get a better look. I'm curious if anyone else had this issue.
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Old 01-31-2019, 03:29 PM   #14
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pip-up toilet leak

Had a similar problem with cassette toilet. Found on u-tube how to fix. Use quality Olive oil to lubricate the cassette flap and seals (after a good cleaning, using rubber gloves). Repeat this process a couple of times a year. No more leaks!
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:19 PM   #15
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Sounds as if you found a solution.

FWIW, I'll share my procedure.
  1. Remove and stow the travel door;
  2. Unsnap the door hanger straps from the ceiling, and let the door hang from the cables;
  3. Set the turnbutton on the bottom of the door so I can lift it off the travel bracket;
  4. Position myself near the middle of the door but closer to the foot of the door and lift it off the travel bracket;
  5. "Walk" my hands toward the top of the door so I'm in the middle;
  6. Twist the door about 45 degrees and push the foot of the door through the opening and generally position it in the opening;
  7. Attach the smaller inner velcro flaps on the door frame to loosely hold it in place;
  8. Align the rest of the velcro flaps both inside and outside, so things are generally where they should be;
  9. Get on my hands and knees, then "open the door" from the door frame so I can "manhandle" the door frame into the opening and pull in strongly on the bottom -- this is crucial if the roof is leaning even slightly toward the "road side" (as opposed to the "curb side") -- the roof can strongly resist pulling the bottom of the door frame into place -- especially if the roof turnbutton is in the way;
  10. "Make" the bottom two turnbuttons on the door frame;
  11. Stand and "make" the top turnbutton that holds the door to the roof -- and if the roof is "leaning to the road side", push the roof toward the curb side....toward the door -- it will move easily;
  12. If the roof is not high enough...it's a close fit...nudge the roof up about 1/8" to 1/4";
  13. "Make" the roof turnbutton;
  14. "Make" the middle turnbuttons - the ones at waist level;
  15. Shift the door frame left or right as needed....sometimes there is a gap on one side or the other -- I just give the door frame a gentle kick with my sneaker to slide it left or right;
  16. Finish dressing up and adjusting the velcro flaps;
  17. The only time I'm outside is when I'm dressing the outside velcro flaps.

Lots of steps that actually flow into a few continuous motions.

The real key steps are 7) using the small inner velcro flaps to get control of the door and then 9) opening the door in its frame to give me the ability to wrestle it into position in the door opening. On the hinge side, I often open the door 90 degrees and use the door as a handle to wrestle the frame.

Wrestle and manhandle are extreme terms for a bit of fairly gentle tugs and yanks.

I use a PTFE dry lube on the rails that carry the top of the door...and the sliding cable hangers. These will drive you crazy if they stick, and this lube makes them slide like skates on ice. I use the same dry lube on the bed ends. It goes on "wet", but when it dries it doesn't make a mess. I just keep a paper towel "behind" the spray to catch overspray. I apply it to the bed ends when they are open...on the slide rails and wheels, inside and out. Any that gets on the counters wipes right off, and with the beds open, it's easy to keep it off the sheets and blankets.

Over time, your door opening may "open up" a bit from trailer flexing. I keep a roll of Gorilla Tape or Duct Tape handy to seal around the door on cold, windy nights. Even if you can't see daylight, the wind will penetrate quite a bit. Gorilla tape will also prove handy to seal up gaps in the canvas-to-body fittings that inevitably show up here and there. You don't notice them in the summer, but when it's cold and windy, a 1 square inch opening lets in a LOT of cold air.

Good luck with your new camper! I hope some bit of this was helpful.
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:05 AM   #16
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P.S. To all with the FR/RW 1 piece door.
The travel bracket that holds the foot of the door is mounted to the roof with 4 wood screws into...PARTICLE BOARD.

I boondock all the time, and these screws ripped out in season 1. I replaced them with stainless bolts and locking nuts. Solid as a rock. The bolts are under the bag awning out of the weather, so there's no risk of leaks. If they were exposed to the weather a little silicone caulk in the bolt hole and under the bolt/washer head would take care of that. The nuts and bolt ends are inside where they don't risk damaging anything. If you need a flush fit, a Dremel cutoff wheel will trim the bolt and polish the end so it's smooth to the touch.

Secondly, the turnbutton on the bottom of the door frame is held in place with an aluminum pop rivet. Same problem. Offroading and washboard gravel roads made short work of this flimsy rivet. I replaced it with a 1/8" or 3/16" (can't remember) stainless bolt and locking nut and some washers using the same turnbutton. Also solid as a rock.

Both are easy fixes.

If you only drive smooth paved roads, you may never have these issues, but if you like to get out into the national forests or even off road, that means miles of rough terrain that will shake your camper apart. Lay in a supply of wood and sheet metal screws in many sizes and a small supply of bolts and nylock nuts and a few washers. I store mine in one of these. Make it all stainless steel so you can use it inside and outside and so it's compatible with aluminum. Also stock LocTite for nuts and bolts and Gorilla glue to bond wood screws into screw holes. Anything that can vibrate apart will, and replacing a wood screw with a +1 size (next size up) and Gorilla glue will make the screw stay put.

The list of things I've had to put back together would fill a page, single-spaced, 10 point font! It started with the screws holding the hinges on my folding bathroom walls pulling out!! I swear I've had to replace/reinforce the majority of fasteners in my camper...even cabinet hinges.

Since you'll already have a cordless drill to operate your stabilizer jacks, bring drill bits and a #2 Phillips driver bit. In fact, bring a modest but comprehensive tool kit. In my 5 seasons with my rig, I've used every tool I have and wished I'd brought more. Some jobs have had to wait until I get home.

If you own one of these things, you can lose it "forever" to warranty repairs, or you can fix it yourself and camp.

Don't get me wrong. I love my camper. It's a matter of expectations. Once I came to grips with the fact that $15,000 (new) doesn't get you an $80,000 Airstream, and that I'm dragging an 8' x 25' (opened and setup) home on wheels all over hell and gone...over the river and thru the woods - literally...I began to accept the fact that putting in a little work to keep it together isn't a lot to ask, because it lets me be in places like this.

Last thought. If you travel "wet"...with water in the fresh tank...as I always do, guess what? They won't hold up. This forum is full of gripes about sagging and failed fresh tanks. Reinforce your fresh tank. My last photo depicts how I reinforced mine. You'll also see my lift kit installed, because I was dragging the stairs and other stuff...but no longer.

However much work these are, they beat the hell out of a tent and sleeping bag!!

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Old 04-02-2019, 03:00 PM   #17
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I am having trouble also. I have a 2016 2318g I just picked up. Got it home to set it up myself and notice the door wouldnt fully "fit" height wise. Noticed my tether still had some slack but the electric motor had reached its cut off point. I manually lifted it a little more and got the door to fit. But it appears the latches at the roof are wrong. Previous owner said they just worked around it. I can get it to latch at the bottom , but shouldnt the top be flush with the wall and latch in 2 places? The latches on the wall dont match the width of the holes, nor are they the right size for the door holes. Am I doing something wrong?Click image for larger version

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Old 04-02-2019, 03:10 PM   #18
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I am having trouble also. I have a 2016 2318g I just picked up. Got it home to set it up myself and notice the door wouldnt fully "fit" height wise. Noticed my tether still had some slack but the electric motor had reached its cut off point. I manually lifted it a little more and got the door to fit. But it appears the latches at the roof are wrong. Previous owner said they just worked around it. I can get it to latch at the bottom , but shouldnt the top be flush with the wall and latch in 2 places? The latches on the wall dont match the width of the holes, nor are they the right size for the door holes. Am I doing something wrong?Attachment 200563
Adjust the upper limit switch on the roof lift winch.
Your instruction manual will show you how, and there is a little (usually red) fiberglass "screwdriver" to perform the task. If you can't do the adjustment yourself, pop the cap on the winch motor and use the manual override and a cordless drill with the same socket that works on your stabilizer jacks to raise the roof another half inch or so. Then get someone to show you how to adjust the limit switches.
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:51 PM   #19
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Thanks Jimmoore. So should the door sit flush up top and latch on where the silver piece with the slits are? I know it should and I feel dumb for asking, but I'm not sure how this flaw couldnt have been noticed for the last 3 years. There are 2 latches behind it preventing it from sitting flush that are too large for the slits.
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Old 04-26-2020, 11:19 AM   #20
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I know this is an other thread, but it seems somewhat relevant to my current issue.


I just got our 2019 Rockwood Freedom 1950 setup in the backyard for the first time and I can not figure out how the top of the door works with the roof. The bottom secured nicely into the frame with the locking tabs, and the sides secured with velcro... but there is about a 1/2in gap inside of the roof (not an up or down issue) so the door will not sit flush with the roof when closed. (see pictures... links below). And even if it did sit flush with the roof, there does not seem to be any velcro or locking tabs on the roof near the top of the door?



Door gap at top (from inside): https://imgur.com/Es5yLf5
Door gap at top (from outside): https://imgur.com/eYOS0ur
The rig: https://imgur.com/Ek8BA07



Thanks in advance!


Ron
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