HW277 license plate bracket

[biggie240]

Hi all, haven’t been able to find in a search but anyone know I’d the plastic bracket is replaceable without replacing the whole taillight?

Thinking a steel one would make me feel better. Already lost the temp tag on the way home with the camper.

Thanks

[Thomas ho]

ebay , amazon.

[biggie240]

Originally Posted by Thomas ho

ebay , amazon.

So is it just a bracket under the taillight and not integrated into it?

[biggie240]

Just went and looked it is all one piece with the left taillight. Don’t see anything on Amazon yet that will work. So will keep searching.

[pgandw]

Roberts Sales (https://robertssales.com/) stocks the part - just saw it in their parts stock list. Roberts (located in Denver) ships nation-wide.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame (purchased at Roberts)
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time

[biggie240]

Don’t see one that will work on there. May have to get one from Amazon and modify it to fit the screw holes and cut off the plastic holder from the light assembly.

[Plan Man]

I just unscrewed the license plate on mine. I added a metal one and used the spare tire screw to hold it in place. So effectively I moved the license plate to the spare tire holder

[biggie240]

Only issue is light on it if at night.

[SailorSam20500]

To avoid loosing my plate, I put some heavy duty double sided tape on. Has kept everything secure.

[jimmoore13]

The license plate bracket is sturdy enough to not worry. If you lost your temp tag, perhaps the bolts weren't tightened? Simple solution: nylock nuts.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Nyl...44265744&psc=1

Temp tag suggests new...or new to you.
Speaking of stainless, lay in an inventory of stainless screws, bolts and nuts. If and when a screw backs out (you find it on the floor), upsize the screw and add a dab of Gorilla Glue to the threads before you install it. This is the equivalent of LocTite on nuts and bolts. Get the minis for "single use". https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Origi...l%2C228&sr=8-3

If you boondock, as your HW-277 (my previous rig) encourages you to do, things vibrate apart. You can fix them on the fly with a small hardware kit. I recommend stainless because it can be used inside or out, and it's compatible with aluminum and steel.

If the rivets in your stairs start to give out, replace them with 1/4" bolts, washers and nylock nuts...all stainless.

If you're fussy, bring a can of black spray paint. Before you put in the new screw, screw it into some cardboard and paint the head. Let it dry, then install.

My HW-277 gave me many years of wonderful service, but you must expect to perform some field repairs unless you only go on paved roads. Gravel roads tend to shake any camper apart...it goes with the territory.

The stairs on a HW-277 are vulnerable to grounding when off-road. I lifted my rig to solve the problem. But a new, better solution might be something like this Morryde Step. https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== It folds completely into the camper. My stairs were very vulnerable, and when going off-road, I'd carry a sledge hammer to straighten them upon arrival. (photo) When I bought my new rig, I bought the fold-away stairs as part of the deal, then I installed them myself. I don't know if they make them narrow enough for a PUP, but they might. I absolutely love mine. You can see them in the photo of the Jayco. WORD OF WARNING. Note the straight rails on either side of the step. Be vigilant to not step on those, or it's a fast ride to the ground. It took me two hard lessons to pay better attention.

Finally, if you boondock, solar is great. I put 100 watts on the roof of my HW-277, and with frugal use of power, I could go indefinitely without shore power. That's an entirely different and detailed subject, so if you care to pursue it, let me know.

Meanwhile, unless your license plate bracket broke off, the solution is nylock nuts.

[biggie240]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

The license plate bracket is sturdy enough to not worry. If you lost your temp tag, perhaps the bolts weren't tightened? Simple solution: nylock nuts.
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Nyl...44265744&psc=1

Temp tag suggests new...or new to you.
Speaking of stainless, lay in an inventory of stainless screws, bolts and nuts. If and when a screw backs out (you find it on the floor), upsize the screw and add a dab of Gorilla Glue to the threads before you install it. This is the equivalent of LocTite on nuts and bolts. Get the minis for "single use". https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Origi...l%2C228&sr=8-3

If you boondock, as your HW-277 (my previous rig) encourages you to do, things vibrate apart. You can fix them on the fly with a small hardware kit. I recommend stainless because it can be used inside or out, and it's compatible with aluminum and steel.

If the rivets in your stairs start to give out, replace them with 1/4" bolts, washers and nylock nuts...all stainless.

If you're fussy, bring a can of black spray paint. Before you put in the new screw, screw it into some cardboard and paint the head. Let it dry, then install.

My HW-277 gave me many years of wonderful service, but you must expect to perform some field repairs unless you only go on paved roads. Gravel roads tend to shake any camper apart...it goes with the territory.

The stairs on a HW-277 are vulnerable to grounding when off-road. I lifted my rig to solve the problem. But a new, better solution might be something like this Morryde Step. https://www.amazon.com/Lippert-Compo...xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== It folds completely into the camper. My stairs were very vulnerable, and when going off-road, I'd carry a sledge hammer to straighten them upon arrival. (photo) When I bought my new rig, I bought the fold-away stairs as part of the deal, then I installed them myself. I don't know if they make them narrow enough for a PUP, but they might. I absolutely love mine. You can see them in the photo of the Jayco. WORD OF WARNING. Note the straight rails on either side of the step. Be vigilant to not step on those, or it's a fast ride to the ground. It took me two hard lessons to pay better attention.

Finally, if you boondock, solar is great. I put 100 watts on the roof of my HW-277, and with frugal use of power, I could go indefinitely without shore power. That's an entirely different and detailed subject, so if you care to pursue it, let me know.

Meanwhile, unless your license plate bracket broke off, the solution is nylock nuts.

Thanks

The nuts on the temp tag probably were not correct. I do plan on getting nylon nuts for when my permanent tag comes in.

Screws that go on the table support I was planning on using wood putty in the holes in trying that but I also think of the gorilla glue.

I don’t have the issue with the stairs given that man has fold in stairs as the travel door.

We don’t really plan on boon-docking but have thought of solar for battery charger. Plan on going to 2 batteries soon as well.

[still-learnin]

I had the same problem when a storm came through and ripped mhy licence tag off the tail light hanger. Then I had a 5th wheel rv and a box bumper that could house a sewer hose. I got a pair of U-bolts and attached it to my bumper. I never had any issues with it not being lit up at night.
My current rv is a HW296 and the tag hanger is flimsey looking plastic, and the what ifs came to my mind.
I am glad you posted the question,