HW296 - Pulling tires and adjusting brakes

[bryankloos]

Hello All,

My new TV has TPMS valves/sensors for the PUP. I'm wanting to pull the tires for my local garage to install the new sensors. While I have the tires off I figure its a good time to adjust the electric brakes, as 100% gain on my TV is not locking up the PUP brakes.

The HW296 is dial axel, 4 wheels. I would like to jack up one side, drop on jack stand, remove both tires, install TPMS valves, adjust brakes, reinstall tires. Then repeat on the other side.

First question: Where do I locate my jack to raise?
Second question: Assuming I pull both tires on one side, where do I drop onto stand(s)? Or should I drop onto spare? Seems stands may be best??
Third Question: How do I adjust the electric brakes?

I appreciate any help and guidance.

Many Thanks,

Bryan

[flyerdp]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Hello All,

My new TV has TPMS valves/sensors for the PUP. I'm wanting to pull the tires for my local garage to install the new sensors. While I have the tires off I figure its a good time to adjust the electric brakes, as 100% gain on my TV is not locking up the PUP brakes.

The HW296 is dial axel, 4 wheels. I would like to jack up one side, drop on jack stand, remove both tires, install TPMS valves, adjust brakes, reinstall tires. Then repeat on the other side.

First question: Where do I locate my jack to raise?
Second question: Assuming I pull both tires on one side, where do I drop onto stand(s)? Or should I drop onto spare? Seems stands may be best??
Third Question: How do I adjust the electric brakes?

I appreciate any help and guidance.

Many Thanks,

Bryan

Keep in mind I have a single axle trailer......

Jack stands will work all the way against the back side of the wheel hubs. In other words the point that the U shaped clamps go around the axle and hold it to the springs. If you go closer to middle on the axle it will just bend.

I jack up on the front spring attachment point and get a stand under the axle as quick as possible.

I have seen some folks use a wheel lift (kind of like a ramp) for one of the two tires on one side. You can do one tire then switch which wheel is on the lift and take off the other tire then switch to the other side.

Like this:
Rapid Jack

I would never expect the brakes to lock up. They are going to assist the TV in slowing. The way they work is there is an electromagnet that grips the inside wall of the drum (same surface the lug studs go through). The drum rotation along with that grabbing action causes the break pads to be pushed outwards towards the drum walls to apply brakes.

You can try to expand them out some but they should be auto adjusting.

[flyerdp]

I dug this up today from a picture of the brake mechanism on amazon minus the drum:



The adjuster is more or less standard drum brake mechanism. You can see the electromagnet I circled and how it faces the side of the brake drum better illustrating how the brake system works.

[bryankloos]

Thanks All,

I'll get the wheels up today and check brake tension. I'll then throw on the spare as safety while the valves are replaced.

I appreciate the help.

should be easy enough!

[D W]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Thanks All,

I'll get the wheels up today and check brake tension. I'll then throw on the spare as safety while the valves are replaced.

I appreciate the help.

should be easy enough!

Just so you know, the brakes will not apply standing still

[bryankloos]

Well, I guess its a good thing I pulled the tires...
Seems some *****-Hat drove my lugs on with a driver. More than half of the lugs have small splits on them, and the kicker one of them was driven on cross threaded. UGH!

I'll clean and try to chase the threads on the bad lug with some Wd40 and see if I can get things corrected.

One side is up, both tires off, with the spare in place and on stands. Should be safe enough for now. I'll bring the tires to my shop tomorrow for the first half and then repeat. Cant wait to see what I find on the other side.

2 new questions.

What lugs do I buy to replace the current ones?

If need be, what is the protocol for replacing a crossed lug? I'm assuming they are part of the drum, or are they removable? I'm not wanting to take apart the drum this week but more planning for the future should this lug not clean up.

Thanks!

[D W]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Well, I guess its a good thing I pulled the tires...
Seems some *****-Hat drove my lugs on with a driver. More than half of the lugs have small splits on them, and the kicker one of them was driven on cross threaded. UGH!

I'll clean and try to chase the threads on the bad lug with some Wd40 and see if I can get things corrected.

One side is up, both tires off, with the spare in place and on stands. Should be safe enough for now. I'll bring the tires to my shop tomorrow for the first half and then repeat. Cant wait to see what I find on the other side.

2 new questions.

What lugs do I buy to replace the current ones?

If need be, what is the protocol for replacing a crossed lug? I'm assuming they are part of the drum, or are they removable? I'm not wanting to take apart the drum this week but more planning for the future should this lug not clean up.

Thanks!

Small Splits? The lug stud or the lug nut?

The lug studs should be 1/2 x 20 (tpi). Lug studs are pressed into the drums. The length of the stud depends on what drum/axle you have.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Well, I guess its a good thing I pulled the tires...
Seems some *****-Hat drove my lugs on with a driver. More than half of the lugs have small splits on them, and the kicker one of them was driven on cross threaded. UGH!

I'll clean and try to chase the threads on the bad lug with some Wd40 and see if I can get things corrected.

One side is up, both tires off, with the spare in place and on stands. Should be safe enough for now. I'll bring the tires to my shop tomorrow for the first half and then repeat. Cant wait to see what I find on the other side.

2 new questions.

What lugs do I buy to replace the current ones?

If need be, what is the protocol for replacing a crossed lug? I'm assuming they are part of the drum, or are they removable? I'm not wanting to take apart the drum this week but more planning for the future should this lug not clean up.

Thanks!

I wouldn't use WD-40 as a lube to help recover the threads. A drop or two of motor oil would be far better. Work lug nut back and forth rather than trying to straighten threads all at once.

Hopefully the cross threaded nut didn't rip a bunch of metal off the stud as is the normal result.

[bryankloos]

Yes, it took some metal off the stud but I could get the nut back on with some gentle back ad forth and oil. That said, I'll see how well it seats with the wheel back in place.

WRT the splits, I was referring to the lug nuts. A bunch of them have splits on the side. I'm guessing from being over driven with an impact wrench.

I'm hopeful I won't need to pull the drum and have a new stud pressed.

Does anyone have a shop manual outlining removal of the drum?

Thanks!

[Blackrock]

Just drive the bad wheel stud out with a swinging arbor press (hammer) and take them to an auto parts store and the can match them up. Re install the same way with a hammer and punch (drift). The larger the hammer the easier it is. I recommend a 3# as that's my favorite tool.

[Blackrock]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Yes, it took some metal off the stud but I could get the nut back on with some gentle back ad forth and oil. That said, I'll see how well it seats with the wheel back in place.

WRT the splits, I was referring to the lug nuts. A bunch of them have splits on the side. I'm guessing from being over driven with an impact wrench.

I'm hopeful I won't need to pull the drum and have a new stud pressed.

Does anyone have a shop manual outlining removal of the drum?

Thanks!

Okay so it's the lug nut that has the splits. Those too are replaceable with solid steel ones that a good parts store can match up. I just went through that with my wifes Cherokee.

[Bama Rambler]

It's possible that you have the 'skinned' lug nuts. They have a thin 'skin' of chrome metal over the actual lug nut. You can get one piece replacements that don't have the outer skin.

[bryankloos]

Yes, I will order up 25 new 1/2-20 lug nuts, solid one piece.

Regarding a new lug bolt, if I remove the drum, will I need new axle nut, lock and washer? Or is it tolerable to reuse the existing equipment? Am I also looking at repacking the bearings or can I just shoot in some more grease in the EZ lube port?

Assuming things don't go as planned tomorrow when I put the wheels back on I'll order up the necessary parts. Even if they do go well, I'd like to eventually swap out the bolt...

[bryankloos]

Holly COW!

I just looked on etrailer and they want $5 for each lug nut. Am I missing something here? That seems nuts to me (pun intended).

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Holly COW!



I just looked on etrailer and they want $5 for each lug nut. Am I missing something here? That seems nuts to me (pun intended).

If you order a set of 20 (for 4 wheels) they work out to around $1.75 each.

As for installing new stud, insert stud from rear of drum, place a couple washers ocer threads, then using a good lug nut pull the stud into it's position with a lug wrench or socket/ratchet.

Beatjng them in with hammer and punch may or may not seat the stud fully. Most shops will pull them in using nut and impact wrench.

[flyerdp]

I bought a full set of dorman (611-071) solid lug nuts for my single axle for less than $30 at autozone. Adding: I just tried to find a link and a lot show a two part lug nut but the ones I bought are one piece and solid.

They are the next size up on the 4 way lug wrench but worked fine.

I don't recall what the inside of the drum looks like right now but please recall I said that the electromagnet grabs the inside wall of the drum, the same surface the studs go through. So they will be flush and TBH I don't know how they attach as compared to standard drum lugs.

[D W]

Originally Posted by bryankloos

Yes, I will order up 25 new 1/2-20 lug nuts, solid one piece.

Regarding a new lug bolt, if I remove the drum, will I need new axle nut, lock and washer? Or is it tolerable to reuse the existing equipment? Am I also looking at repacking the bearings or can I just shoot in some more grease in the EZ lube port?

Assuming things don't go as planned tomorrow when I put the wheels back on I'll order up the necessary parts. Even if they do go well, I'd like to eventually swap out the bolt...

No need to replace the axle nut, washer or lock unless they are damaged. If you're pulling the drums off you might as well repack the bearings. In that case you will need new seals.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by D W

No need to replace the axle nut, washer or lock unless they are damaged. If you're pulling the drums off you might as well repack the bearings. In that case you will need new seals.

X2 and you will be able to clean and inspect the bearings and races to see what heir condition is.
Based on what you have found so far Id be EAGER to look at those bearings too!