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Old 07-02-2017, 08:52 PM   #1
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Interior lights/outlets don't work, everything else does

We are currently out camping, plugged in on shore power, and none of the interior lights or outlets are working. But everything else electric works fine.
I've checked all the fuses and none have blown, even replaced all fuses, reset the gfi multiple times, flipped breakers, and nothing fixes.

One of the blade fuses does have a red light by it when I jiggle the fuse, I think it's the third one down, but if I'm physically not touching/moving the fuse the light is off.

I'm currently running the fridge on propane, and that unplugged from the dedicated outlet thinking it was a short in the fridge.

Outside lights, cassette toilet, water pump, water heater, furnace all work Ok, just not interior lights or outlets.

Any suggestions ?
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:00 PM   #2
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We are currently out camping, plugged in on shore power, and none of the interior lights or outlets are working. But everything else electric works fine.
I've checked all the fuses and none have blown, even replaced all fuses, reset the gfi multiple times, flipped breakers, and nothing fixes.

One of the blade fuses does have a red light by it when I jiggle the fuse, I think it's the third one down, but if I'm physically not touching/moving the fuse the light is off.

I'm currently running the fridge on propane, and that unplugged from the dedicated outlet thinking it was a short in the fridge.

Outside lights, cassette toilet, water pump, water heater, furnace all work Ok, just not interior lights or outlets.

Any suggestions ?
My interior lights can be controlled two ways. I have a main switch with the panel for slides, awning...two switches control two different zones. Each light in each zone can also be turned on and off at the light itself. If the main for each zone is off...the individual lights will not work either. If capable...check each individual fuse with a meter. Sometimes it hard to tell by visual inspection if they are good or not. I'd start with the one that you get the red light with.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:30 PM   #3
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Put a multi-meter on the fuse. They can LOOK ok, but aren't always.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:37 PM   #4
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Out camping right now, can check with a meter when back home.

The fuse port that is giving me the red light... I've tried several new fuses in that location, each time resetting the gfi and main breakers just for kicks. The manual I have does a pretty poor job explaining things to troubleshoot.

On my 228bh I think there is just the one panel/main fuse left location.
Forgot to mention initially that the fantastic fan doesn't work either, fuse there is not popped.

At times if I turn on the ceiling light one will turn on, but will turn on really really dim ( like hardly illuminated) and only for a few seconds.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:46 PM   #5
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My interior lights can be controlled two ways. I have a main switch with the panel for slides, awning...two switches control two different zones. Each light in each zone can also be turned on and off at the light itself. If the main for each zone is off...the individual lights will not work either. If capable...check each individual fuse with a meter. Sometimes it hard to tell by visual inspection if they are good or not. I'd start with the one that you get the red light with.
The OP has a popup and posted this in the Popup sub-forum.
Popups have a very basic electrical system and have no zones like what you have.

OP, have you checked the plunger switch and the GFI outlet.
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:53 PM   #6
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The OP has a popup and posted this in the Popup sub-forum.
Popups have a very basic electrical system and have no zones like what you have.

OP, have you checked the plunger switch and the GFI outlet.
read his first post
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Old 07-02-2017, 09:59 PM   #7
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OP, have you checked the plunger switch and the GFI outlet.
Plunger switch ?

Gfi, yes. Doesn't do anything =\
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:00 AM   #8
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Newer popups have a switch that will turn off the lights when the camper is folded down. Some are tied in with the galley, so when the galley is swung down, the lights go out. You might want to look for a switch around your galley.
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Old 07-03-2017, 12:51 PM   #9
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Had issues with the light in our dinette. All fuses looked good on initial inspection and then tested good with a meter. Noticed a scorch mark on one fuse's blade. After scraping it to good metal, the light worked.
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Old 07-03-2017, 02:30 PM   #10
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I think you have two problems. Unless your camper is an antique, 120 volt power is protected by breakers, and 12 volt power is protected by fuses. They are completely separate systems. I apologize for the repetition. As I wrote this, my theory evolved a bit. Bear with me.

You don't say what type of PUP. High-walls don't have plunger switches (ALL SYSTEMS IN MY HW ARE LIVE ALL THE TIME), but on "conventional" PUPS, there is a switch, much like the switch that turns on the light inside your fridge or turns on the dome light in your car. When you fold the camper, you flip the sink/counter upside down, and the plunger switch "opens" and turns off the 12-volt power inside the camper so that interior lights don't cook the canvass if you accidentally left them on.
The plunger is typically screwed to the interior of the base part of the sink cabinet, and loose (or lost) screws could have it out of position so that it's not pushed in enough to "close" the switch and make the connection. It should have slots on its mount to enable you to adjust its position.

Turn on the lights and manually operate the switch to test it (while the sink is in travel position), and that may solve your 12 volt problem. Simply mount and adjust the switch so that it functions properly. If not, use a multimeter to check the switch. When you push it in all the way, it should have zero resistance...be a closed circuit. If not, the switch failed. Just replace it.

WARNING: DO NOT BE CONNECTED TO SHORE POWER WHEN TESTING. The plunger MAY also switch the outlets (though I doubt it). You don't want to be testing continuity on a live 120 volt circuit!
If your plunger switch has just two wires going to it, it probably does 12 volts only. If it has 4 wires, beware, because it could also switch 120 volts!

Regardless of the plunger switch, your 120 volt systems should be SEPARATE from your 12 volt lighting. That's why I suspect you have two separate issues. There's no real reason for the plunger switch to disable the 120 volt circuits. But, most likely, the GFCI-protected 120 volt outlets may be dead because of a tripped breaker. Turn OFF ALL breakers on the panel, then turn them on. It's sometimes hard to tell that a breaker has tripped, and the only way to reset any circuit breaker is to first turn it off then on again. Then check the 120 volt power at each outlet. If resetting all breakers doesn't activate the 120 volt circuits, go back to the GFCIs.

Many PUPS have more than one GFCI, and if the design is "stupid", they may have multiple GFCI outlets on a single circuit making it difficult to able to determine which is tripped. Each circuit should have only ONE GFCI first in line on the circuit. It protects all outlets downstream. But in the slap-dash rush to slam these things together, some 120 volt circuits have multiple GFCIs. Dumb. Solution? Manually "trip" then "reset" EVERY GFCI in the camper to ensure they are active. When you do, listen for "clicks." If you reset, and a GFCI then clicks (trips), you have a "real" problem...beyond this discussion.

Note that many (not all) GFCIs are like circuit breakers. They MUST first be manually switched "off" (by pushing the "test" button firmly) before they can be reset. Like circuit breakers, once they are tripped, you don't just turn them back on. Just pushing reset may not reactivate the tripped GFCI unless you turn it off first. (The one in my bathroom works this way.)

Back to 12 volt. Separately investigate the fuse with the flickering red light. That red light is telling you something. First replace the fuse and test. If the flicker persists, pull the panel and look for a loose wire, sloppy fuse socket, etc. Check the other end of the wires, too. A bad connection may exist down the line at another spot...perhaps a push-on spade connector.
https://www.amazon.com/Yueton-100pcs...pade+connector

Sometimes, depending on design, sloppy sockets can be pinched gently with a needle-nose pliers to snug them up. If the fuse holder itself is bad (VERY unlikely), you should be able to replace it, but if not, you can replace it with an inline fuse holder as a temporary kluge: https://www.amazon.com/Scosche-0400A...ve+fuse+holder

If you must use the kluge, choose the correct fuse holder based on wire size, such as 16 AWG, 14 AWG, 12 AWG or 10 AWG, etc. If in doubt, go to a larger wire size (smaller number - 16 is smaller than 12). The wire size will be printed on the wire feeding the current fuse holder. Use the same amperage fuse as was originally installed regardless of wire size. Again, an in-line fuse is a temporary kluge. It's safe, but it will likely be hidden behind the panel and hard to get to and a real pain in the ass , so if the fuse socket is bad, you'll want to replace it or the entire fuse panel ASAP.

Again, I don't think the plunger switch will control 120 volt power. That would require a plunger with two separate switches inside and a much higher voltage/current rating. The plunger probably only controls SOME of the 12 volt power - lights, maybe the pump, exhaust fan, furnace, and ???. Think about what could ruin your camper if it was left on when the camper was closed. The rest of your 12 volt power should not run thru the plunger, because things like the fridge, spark ignition for the water heater, pump, etc. pose no threat to the camper when it's closed. And you NEED to be able to run the fridge on 12 volts while towing.

One more possibility. If it's just the lights that don't work on 12 volts, pull and check the light switch with a multimeter. It could be as simple as that.

Last though on loose screws (plunger switch). If the screws loosened or dropped out (say from vibration on a washboard dirt road), and if the holes in what's likely to be particle board are somewhat stripped, a good repair is to use Gorilla Glue in the hole and on the screw thread as a kind of LocTite. Wet the hole and the threads with water and put a bit of Gorilla glue in the hole and on the threads. Work quickly to adjust the switch and tighten the screws, because this stuff makes a very strong bond once it's dry. The screws won't vibrate loose ever again!

Good luck.
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Old 07-03-2017, 06:41 PM   #11
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Jim, I am surprised that your highwall does not have a light cut off plunger switch. My 2011 highwall 277 had one, it was in the roof just under the driver side front corner. My dealer never mentioned it during my PDI, I just happened to come across it one day.
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:06 PM   #12
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Jim, I am surprised that your highwall does not have a light cut off plunger switch. My 2011 highwall 277 had one, it was in the roof just under the driver side front corner. My dealer never mentioned it during my PDI, I just happened to come across it one day.
Interesting. There IS a plunger switch in that location, but we added a 2" mattress topper, and while the roof closes with a bit of extra effort, it doesn't trigger the switch. This would be the reverse of a sink switch...open if the camper is closed, and closed (passing power) with the camper setup. "Our" plunger would work in reverse.

My HW has a prominent label near the light switch warning to not leave the lights on with the camper closed.

Maybe I'll look into my plunger and adjust it. Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2017, 11:40 PM   #13
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One more detail about 120 volt AC power.
Most campers have an outdoor outlet. That should be live anytime you are plugged into shore power. Test that one, too. I use mine as I prep the camper but plugging in a pancake compressor to top off the tires, and the camper is not setup. The same was true of my old PUP...the outlet was always live if connected to shore power.
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Old 07-05-2017, 02:48 PM   #14
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Have the camper setup in the driveway again, cleaning up and more time to look for problems.

The outlet issue looks like it was the gfi outlet. Resetting the gfi the outlets are happy . I swear I did this while camping and it didn't work, but it's working now.

The lights still don't work. Checked fuses again and replaced, still getting the red light. Gfi resetting didn't help
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Old 07-05-2017, 02:59 PM   #15
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This is the socket giving me issues. If i replace with a tested good fuse the red light goes off, but dome lights still don't power on.
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:03 PM   #16
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Also have checked the plunge switches activated by the sink. These are not the issue
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:07 PM   #17
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With new fuses, the dome lights illuminate ever so slight.

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Also noticed in the daylight now, there is a resistor directly under this fuse that is cracked... I assume this is not good...

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Old 07-05-2017, 03:39 PM   #18
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I'd say you found the problem. Should be easy to solder a new resister to the old one's leads if you are at all handy with a soldering iron.
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Old 07-05-2017, 03:52 PM   #19
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I'd say you found the problem. Should be easy to solder a new resister to the old one's leads if you are at all handy with a soldering iron.
But since there is no fuse there, is that socket active?
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Old 07-05-2017, 04:43 PM   #20
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But since there is no fuse there, is that socket active?
Sorry - didn't realize that was an unused slot. So probably not your problem, but you might want to fix it anyway.
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