Level level who got the level.

[emm-dee]

If I calibrate the LevelMatePRO to show a zero indication and then look at it the next day it no longer shows zero. I’ve had two of them and both were the same. Plus, look at it every other day and never see the same indication. The built in level indication included with the LCI LevelUp system is much more reliable, but neither come anywhere close to the accuracy of the three foot level.

[jlynn721]

Originally Posted by Bob414

I have had my camper for 3 or 4 years and have always tried to level using tongue jack and a BAL leveler. And I think I have been close to level.

However, where is the spot that is supposed to be level. I have been using the metal frame, but every other flat surface, ie floor, cabinet, edge of lower box etc. are not level when the frame is level and even different from each other.

I think I am close enough, but where do most people check their camper as being level. Being level is essential in not putting unnecessary strain on the lifting system when raising and lowering. However, having level flat surfaces in the camper makes living inside easier.

Bob

Bob, if you are stopped for a night or 2, just about anything (frame, floor, countertop, etc) that is level is going to work.

I boondocked for 9 weeks last summer and will for 5 1/2 months this summer in WY. I will use the inside of frig and freezer to level my 5er. The frig is really the most important thing. If the Frig is level, everything else will be very close.

[clandsie]

Originally Posted by yukongold

When I first got my TT, I very carefully leveled - front to back and side to side - using the countertops and inside refrigerator and center of trailer floor as focal points. I used a 2 ft bubble level, a 2 ft smart level and a torpedo smart level. Not all sections of the trailer were level at the same time so I had to compromise some. (bathroom counter in rear never matched the kitchen counter, for example) I used the kitchen counter and the refrig as the main points.

After I was satisfied, I placed these bubble levels at each sidewall corner (just above the stabilizer jacks) and center of front and rear caps. Six levels in total. Used double sticky tape and then "cemented" them in with Proflex. They haven't moved in 10 years and make leveling a simple glance at whichever point I am around the trailer.

We stuck one on the front behind the Jack and one on the side near the front after leveling based on water in a pan on a stove burner.

[Desdinova]

On our TT, I took the time in the driveway to make it level on as many surfaces as possible, then with two of the standard bubble level indicators on the front driver side of the trailer I mounted the levels so they reflected perfectly level.

Most importantly, the bathroom door neither swings open nor closed .

Like many, I go tongue up just a smidge and toward the driver's side just a smidge, but I don't have to check anything but those levels in the front corner once they've been "calibrated" so to speak.

[gw1800]

The absorption refrigerator is the only thing that is semi critical. 3º side to side and 6º
front to back maximum. The closer you get it 0º both ways, the better it is on the cooling system.

[Thearcher01]

I got my trailer level using a 4 foot level on the counter and floor (they matched) side to side and front to back, then stuck those arched bubble levels on the front corner of the trailer. I have gone by those corner levels ever since and never have a problem.

[Kennan345]

I built an Arduino based leveler that indicates level through RGB LED’s. It shows us which side is low then we put our curved levelers at that sides wheels. I then back up until the LED’s turn all green! Works like a charm. Arduino is mounted under front battery box and calibrated for level. Unfortunately, this system does not allow uploading video of how it works.

[Robertsmusings]

I added an arrow to a bubble level so that when the bubble is centered on the arrow it will be level when the slides are out.

In our current site, after hitching up and re-leveling once, the TT immediately settled so the driver side rear corner is low. After experiencing the benefits of the AC dripping off that corner and faster dumping, I might aim to be a fraction of a bubble off at future sites.

[Robertsmusings]

FWIW: 3 degrees off of level is >4 inches over 7 feet. And >12 inches at 20 feet. For your RV use the center of the tires. If a site is worse than that, I don't have enough boards.

[johnandval]

When horizontal surfaces do not agree on level you know the quality of construction is not so good.
Measuring on the stove top makes sense if you cook in your camper. Since we do not I check the level in the refrigerator where is to is important to the operation of the appliance.
I would venture to say there are many more opinions out there all with good reasoning.
Happy camping everyone

[HangDiver]

Originally Posted by moose074

I grab a bud light place it on its side. If it rolls not level or can is defective. So I open can empty contents while quenching thirst. I make adjustments then use another less defective can. I repeat until I am satisfied with level. Then I celebrate with another can

I had to laugh when I read this. I've been doing this for years...

[NavyLCDR]

Originally Posted by moose074

I grab a bud light place it on its side. If it rolls not level or can is defective. So I open can empty contents while quenching thirst. I make adjustments then use another less defective can. I repeat until I am satisfied with level. Then I celebrate with another can

Just make sure to not use a heavy beer like Guiness....it doesn't roll as easy....

[pcsdpo]

Originally Posted by yukongold

<clip>
Used double sticky tape and then "cemented" them in with Proflex. They haven't moved in 10 years and make leveling a simple glance at whichever point I am around the trailer.

X2 - Where I park you could never get it "perfectly level", so I rely on the self mounted bubble levels. Also, I don't have the leveling jacks, so you need to decide for yourself what's "close enough". (People accuse me of being half a bubble off plumb . . . so take that into account also ). I'd also like to vote for bubble rather than "ball bearing" levels. I've found that the "balls" tend to stick and give erroneous results.

Without the leveling jacks, I use 2x8s to level side to side under the low wheel. If you look at the bubble level how many 2x8s do you need to move it 1 bubble? I figured out a simple "measure". I have a short piece of mason's line (maybe 10 feet) and a "line level" (bubble level that hangs on the mason's line). I have a couple of buttons on either side of the front of the trailer that match the trim strip under the window that I can attach an end of the line to. I tighten the line across the front of the trailer and work on getting the bubble centered on the line level. Since my "buttons" also are in line with the trim strip under my front window, so I can see how much the "level line" differs from the trim strip on one side. If the "level line" is 3" higher on the low side, that means that you'll need 2 - 2x8" (which are 1.5" thick) to level the trailer. I actually also have a pair of 4x4 blocks bolted together (3.5 " high by 7" wide) when it's really off level (usually boondocking).

I hope we all know that all the levels in the world won't help if you park in an area where they have a "House of Mystery" built where they claim a deformation in the gravity field can make balls roll around corners and uphill! They seem to have these sites close to western national parks. I know that Glacier NP has one and I believe back in the day Mt. Rushmore also had one nearby. If you've been into one, you'll know what I'm talking about.

[HikerBob]

In ten years of use a small round bubble level cemented to the yoke frame has been great for front to back and side to side since I'm not anal about being precisely level and since the fridge can handle being off by a few degrees in either direction.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by HangDiver

I had to laugh when I read this. I've been doing this for years...

Moose is the only one out here that knows how to do it right.

[Daniel.mullins4]

Originally Posted by GalsofEscape

i get nearly level with a bubble level on the back bumper for side to side and a small bubble level attached to the front corner of the camper for front to back - but.... i do arrange it so it is has a very slight lean to the drivers side and a smidge tongue high - that way all the condensation from the AC runs to the back road side corner and drips there and not in my campsite. and we are fine level wise inside - feels level inside, is level enough for the fridge and this also makes the bathroom door tend to swing shut naturally.

GalsofEscape says it all, setting level to your needs, I like my shower pan to drain, I don’t run the AC, not worried about condensate drain, I do like my bed a bit higher at head side, there is no trailer specs for exact level.

[TheWolfPaq82]

If it takes you longer to level your trailer than it did to drive to the location, you really need to reevaluate if it's really that important.

[Dirthawg_]

Like others have posted I took the time to level my travel trailer in the driveway using a 4ft level on the floor of the trailer. After getting it perfectly level in both directions I installed the bubble levels below with rivets on the front and sides of the frame in the driver's side corners.




Once my wife backs me into the site I get out and have a look at the levels to see how many 2x12's if any are needed to level the trailer from side to side. The levels indicate how many inches off level the trailer is. Since 2x12's are 1-1/2" thick I decide which side should be left low if I can't achieve exact level at this particular site.

I will usually choose to leave the driver's side lower and raise the tongue noise high so condensation from the A/C units drains to the driver's rear.

This process usually allows for cooking fried eggs on the flat grill without them running off to one side or the other. I don't give a rats ass if my 12v fridge is perfectly level or not.

In my 5 years of camping I have been lucky to not need more than 2 2x12's stacked together to get "level enough" to enjoy the weekend.

[lbnt18]

When setting up, the first thing is side to side. Usually just put the level across the tongue. After unhitching, we level by opening the door and laying the level on the floor. After all it is more about comfort than anything. Unless you are way off. We usually like ours just a little off level. Not enough to notice but enough if it rains, the rain will either run off the front or the back, which ever we chose. The same goes for run off from the a/c.

[johnandval]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

Just make sure to not use a heavy beer like Guiness....it doesn't roll as easy....

Not to mention which of the million tiny bubbles do you try to center😁