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Old 05-24-2019, 07:38 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by jwfrede View Post
Four sets of levelers? That is a lot of valuable storage space. I use the Andersons to save space and time. You don't have to guess about the number of blocks and then add or subtract after checking level as its a continuous height change. Although I would think after awhile you'll get fairly good at guessing how many blocks based on the bubble.


https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Ander...24707035&psc=1
I used one set for the pop ups. I had 4 sets for the travel trailers with extra.

Sometimes when on an unlevel site, with such a long travel trailer, I had to build up both sides of the trailer to get it level front to back and side to side.

With a pop ups short length, that should never be a concern next to a 29' travel trailer. Also I use the lynx levelers for leveling cooking tables on unlevel sites, putting under stabilizers in muddy areas, and under the front jack to add height or for stability from sinking in mud. They have a lot of uses other than just leveling the rear tires.

The one thing I like about them is their stability in mud or other loose soil. Wood could be used for the same thing but cutting up 2 x 6s, into differing lengths could be bulky and heavy next to the lynx levelers.

The anderson system looks nice but I don't like the possibility you could drive off of them and have a 4" drop to the ground. You almost need 2 people, 1 to drive and 1 to monitor so you don't drive off of them. Since I camp by myself many times, they just don't seem ideal.
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Old 05-24-2019, 08:14 PM   #22
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Another vote for the BAL LeveleróI have one, very easy to use and it works great in most situations.
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Old 05-24-2019, 10:59 PM   #23
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Here's a video review of the Andersen Camper Leveler Kit mentioned above, very interesting.

Here's another review of leveling blocks. Andersen came in 2nd while lynx levelers came in first.

As far as the BAL leveler, maybe it would work best on top of some lynx levelers for stability in mud or loose soil.

I guess I would make sure to grease it often and plentiful as the lack of greasing, was said to be the cause of the failure of the bolt threads.

As far as the plate welds breaking, supposedly it's been redesigned to keep this from happening again. Just make sure to include the price of a bag for the BAL Leveler as it will have a lot of grease on it, that you don't want on your other things.

I know others love it, because of it's ease. I just look at those thin plates and that bolt and consider all the weight that it is holding, and just find it hard to trust, especially with it's previous history.

Maybe I'd try it and put some lynx levelers underneath the wheel once it jacked up, for security. Kind of like putting jack stands underneath a car after using a floor jack. The floor jack most likely would hold it but as far as safety goes, I want the jack stands in case of a failure.
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Old 05-24-2019, 11:32 PM   #24
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Leveling side to side

https://www.amazon.com/Winco-BGPZ-20.../dp/B001CDTLRW

I store my BAL Leveler in this. I used lynx blocks prior to using the BAL Leveler. I use it with my HW 276 without issues on multiple substrate scenarios and no broken welds to speak of. Lynx blocks are good but Iíve found the BAL Leveler easier to use and more convenient for the type of trailer I have and the conditions I encounter where I camp.

In loose soil or mud though Lynx blocks used as a solid base would probably work great, thanks Mike91 for the tip.
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Old 05-25-2019, 06:23 AM   #25
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The anderson system looks nice but I don't like the possibility you could drive off of them and have a 4" drop to the ground. You almost need 2 people, 1 to drive and 1 to monitor so you don't drive off of them. Since I camp by myself many times, they just don't seem ideal.
Actually they are easy to use and I've never driven all the way over them. I camp by myself and I do have to get out and check the level. I have some levels on the hitch so I don't have to run all the way around back to the trailer. Also, you don't go to the very end of them so you can only get the tires up about 3 inches or so. If its more out of level something else would be needed.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:26 AM   #26
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Don't want to spend a ton of bucks trying to level trailer ?? Get some scrap 1x6, 1x8, 2x6 or 2x8 lumber. Cheap at stores...I got some free they were throwing away. Cut to 6-8" pieces and stick under tires, stabilizers, tongue jack...wherever you need them to get to level. Quite simple and inexpensive.
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Old 05-25-2019, 07:30 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Mike91 View Post
I used one set for the pop ups. I had 4 sets for the travel trailers with extra.

Sometimes when on an unlevel site, with such a long travel trailer, I had to build up both sides of the trailer to get it level front to back and side to side.

With a pop ups short length, that should never be a concern next to a 29' travel trailer. Also I use the lynx levelers for leveling cooking tables on unlevel sites, putting under stabilizers in muddy areas, and under the front jack to add height or for stability from sinking in mud. They have a lot of uses other than just leveling the rear tires.

The one thing I like about them is their stability in mud or other loose soil. Wood could be used for the same thing but cutting up 2 x 6s, into differing lengths could be bulky and heavy next to the lynx levelers.

The anderson system looks nice but I don't like the possibility you could drive off of them and have a 4" drop to the ground. You almost need 2 people, 1 to drive and 1 to monitor so you don't drive off of them. Since I camp by myself many times, they just don't seem ideal.
$82 bucks for a set of 2 ? Wood blocks since 1984 has only cost me about $10. No Thanks !!
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Old 05-25-2019, 08:32 AM   #28
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Use the tongue jack to level side to side and front to rear. Back the trailer on to the site. Chalk the wheels. Take the trailer off the hitch. Lower the tongue down so the front is lower than the rear. Check level side to side. Drop the rear stabilizer on the low side all the way to the ground or pad. Leave the high side stabilizer higher depending on how out of level you are side to side. In time you will get to know how much that is. Raise the tongue jack. As the front of the trailer raises, the side to side will also become to level. Once the front to rear is level, drop the front stabilizers to the ground or pads. retract the tongue jack and the front will stay level on the stabilizers. Keep some weight on the tongue jack as a extra stabilizer.
Do not raise the tongue to the point that the wheels come off the ground. The stabilizers are stabilizers not jacks.
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Old 05-25-2019, 11:43 AM   #29
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Use the tongue jack to level side to side and front to rear. Back the trailer on to the site. Chalk the wheels. Take the trailer off the hitch. Lower the tongue down so the front is lower than the rear. Check level side to side. Drop the rear stabilizer on the low side all the way to the ground or pad. Leave the high side stabilizer higher depending on how out of level you are side to side. In time you will get to know how much that is. Raise the tongue jack. As the front of the trailer raises, the side to side will also become to level. Once the front to rear is level, drop the front stabilizers to the ground or pads. retract the tongue jack and the front will stay level on the stabilizers. Keep some weight on the tongue jack as a extra stabilizer.
Do not raise the tongue to the point that the wheels come off the ground. The stabilizers are stabilizers not jacks.
I would never do this. The stabilizers on my trailer are not strong enough to support the weight of the trailer. I thought everyone leveled the same way: put your trailer in the right spot, put levelers in front of the tires on the lower side of the trailer, pull your trailer up on the blocks(I use andersons) to level side to side, now adjust tongue jack to level front to rear. Of course, I recently discovered that my brother backs his tires onto the anderson blocks. Guess that works too. Then after chocking the tires I put the stabilizers down on plastic pads, plus maybe a wood block if its very unlevel to minimize the extension. I don't think I do more than a full turn once I feel the weight on the stabilizer. I use a battery powered drill until its down and then the manual crank to put about the same amount of weight on each corner.
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Old 05-25-2019, 12:56 PM   #30
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I would never do this. The stabilizers on my trailer are not strong enough to support the weight of the trailer. I thought everyone leveled the same way: put your trailer in the right spot, put levelers in front of the tires on the lower side of the trailer, pull your trailer up on the blocks(I use andersons) to level side to side, now adjust tongue jack to level front to rear. Of course, I recently discovered that my brother backs his tires onto the anderson blocks. Guess that works too. Then after chocking the tires I put the stabilizers down on plastic pads, plus maybe a wood block if its very unlevel to minimize the extension. I don't think I do more than a full turn once I feel the weight on the stabilizer. I use a battery powered drill until its down and then the manual crank to put about the same amount of weight on each corner.
Totally agree. Especially since we are talking about a pop-up for the OP. I back on to my Lynx Levelers (orange Legos), but the principle is the same. And I bought the Lynx Levelers (I now have 2 sets because of some really unlevel ground required me to build a 5" high pyramid at one site) at Walmart for $30 for a set of 10.

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Old 05-25-2019, 03:24 PM   #31
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Actually they are easy to use and I've never driven all the way over them. I camp by myself and I do have to get out and check the level. I have some levels on the hitch so I don't have to run all the way around back to the trailer. Also, you don't go to the very end of them so you can only get the tires up about 3 inches or so. If its more out of level something else would be needed.
Yeh, that could be a problem for me too. I have had to go 5 - 6" up on one side due being on a really unlevel site.
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Old 05-25-2019, 09:14 PM   #32
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This may be a stupid question but itís my first pop up. We were doing a trial run of setting up in the yard and the camper wasnít level side to side. I pulled it up on blocks on the low side and it still wasnít level. I raised the jack to get it off the hitch and lowered the stabilizer jacks but the camper was very shaky and didnít feel comfortable setting it up all the way. Any suggestions on setting up on unlevel ground?
Just a suggestion here. When you extend your tongue jack to remove the pop up from your tow vehicle use one of these "wheel docks" under the swivel wheel to keep the trailer from rolling back. We had our pop up start rolling down the site because our cheap plastic chocks slid on the wet asphalt. We leveled side to side with the LYNX levelers.
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Old 05-26-2019, 05:59 PM   #33
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Just a suggestion here. When you extend your tongue jack to remove the pop up from your tow vehicle use one of these "wheel docks" under the swivel wheel to keep the trailer from rolling back. We had our pop up start rolling down the site because our cheap plastic chocks slid on the wet asphalt. We leveled side to side with the LYNX levelers.
Interesting. On both of my A-frames (and on both of my PUPs), the wheel was removed for trailering. It was held on by a pin with a clip.

I did encounter the problem with the cheap plastic yellow chocks sliding on a gravel surface. I solved that problem with the heavy rubber chocks from Harbor Freight ($6 ea, $5 with coupon). The rubber chocks also will hold while sitting on top of the Lynx Levelers. I like them.

just my experiences
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Old 06-03-2019, 03:26 PM   #34
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My vote is for the Anderson levelers. I've used these for the past 2 years with no issues. Simple and easy to use, no mess and they fit in my storage bin without having to worry about grease etc. If you camp solo it does take a little extra time.
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