Leveling side to side

[JasonRW1910ESP]

This may be a stupid question but it’s my first pop up. We were doing a trial run of setting up in the yard and the camper wasn’t level side to side. I pulled it up on blocks on the low side and it still wasn’t level. I raised the jack to get it off the hitch and lowered the stabilizer jacks but the camper was very shaky and didn’t feel comfortable setting it up all the way. Any suggestions on setting up on unlevel ground?

[Infinite_Enigma32]

I've never had a pop up, but I think the kinematics are the same. If you were setting up in the lawn, the weight of the trailer may have pushed the leveling blocks into the grass which would make it difficult to level anyways... When you're in a site or dry camping, you'll typically find solid ground to level off on. That will make it easier. The same goes for the stabilizing jacks, if they went into grass, the weight of the trailer will most likely push into the grass making in not as stable. Hope that helps a bit. Enjoy your camper!!

[JasonRW1910ESP]

That make sense. Thanks for the input

[ependydad]

Put more blocks down until you're level.

Check your owner's manual to see which order you should do next (stabilizers then roof or roof then stabilizers). Use the stabilizers to snug it up a bit.

There will always be some movement, but it shouldn't feel unsafe.

http://learntorv.com/rv-leveling-is-...uick-and-easy/

[pgandw]

I stick on a calibrated level (bought at Walmart) on the front of the A-frame or PUP. The calibrated level gives me a good starting point for number of orange blocks (Lynx Levelers) needed to level side-to-side. I back onto the blocks, check the level again.

Then I chock the wheels and detach the tow vehicle (I use a WDH so several steps there). Once the TV is out of the way, I level front-to-back with the tongue jack. I use a 2ft carpenter's level on the latched roof to get it level.

Next step is to set up the pop-up or A-frame. I do NOT put the stabilizers down until AFTER I have the roof and sides up, and the beds pulled out on a pop-up. The reason for this is the frame and box on A-frames and PUPs are not as rigid as on TTs with full roof and sides. Putting the stabs down first sometimes/usually introduces subtle twists in the frame which cause the door and canvas not to fit properly, or in the case of an A-frame, the roof latches not to line up properly. Even when I just kiss the ground with the stabilizers, I've sometimes had issues with setting up with stabs down.

Pulling the stabs up before folding the camper helps me to not forget them before I drive off. Been there, done that, bent the stabilizer. Stabs down also makes it a lot harder to get the WDH bars on.

just our experiences, continuing to learn
Fred W
2 Pop-ups, 2 A-frames

[JasonRW1910ESP]

Thanks for the info, every little bit helps.

[JP Camper]

Invest in a BAL Single Wheel leveler, worth it’s weight in gold.

[njfishing]

First of all never use your stabilizer jacks to level the pop up... They are meant to stabilize it from rocking side to side or back and forth when you walk around inside the pup.

So here's the drill.... While you're hooked up to your tow vehicle, the first order of business is to get it level side to side. You don't have to worry about front to back since once you get the trailer off your tow vehicle, you'll use the tongue jack to do that...

Depending how low the one side is I'll take a stack of these leveling blocks and drive the low end tire up on them until I get it level... Important to note if its very low on one side I usually try moving to somewhat lever ground.

Now that you have it level side to side, chock your pop up wheels, one in the front of the tire and one in the back and unhitch from you tow vehicle....

Next order of business it to level it front to back by raising or lowering your tongue jack...

Now that you're all level, lower your stabilizer jacks so they're good and snug. If it's soggy underneath them you can put one of the leveling blocks under it to spread the load...

Go into the trailer and walk around a little bit.... I will say that your going to get a little bouncing which is normal and usually is more noticeable when people are bouncing around in the beds or entering the pup on the steps, but it should not feel unsafe, you'll just get some shake.

Hope this helps and remember do not use the stabilizer jack to level... Level first, then use the stabilizer jacks...

[fella10]

Originally Posted by JP Camper

Invest in a BAL Single Wheel leveler, worth it’s weight in gold.

X2 ... there are certainly many ways to get level, but for a single axle trailer, the BAL is about the easiest way to go, ... used one on our 17ft Casita, and liked it so much, when we moved up to a dual axle 21ft Micro Lite 21DS, I bought another one and used THEM on the new 21DS, ... worked great, but that weight trailer was just about the limit of what the BAL's could handle, ... so, when we got the Micro Lite 25KS, I had to abandon the BAL's and go to something more conventional, ... hello Andersen Leveler .....

[njfishing]

One more tip for you... I you have a cordless drill, get one of these sockets for your drill.... It's way easier then using the bar they give you to raise and lower the Stabilizer jacks manually.

[Bob414]

Another vote for Bal Levers. Simply park, put the Bal Lever under low side wheel and use the supplied 3/4 inch wrench to raise to level. No need to chock that wheel either.

[GalsofEscape]

be sure it is level before you raise the roof. The stress on the lift system can break the cable and i speak from experience.


I used the Bal leveler with my popup - worked great.

level side to side, chock the wheels, then unhitch from tow vehicle and then level front to back using the tongue jack. our Rockwood owners manual had to lower the stabilizers to just snug (they are not jacks) then raise the roof.

[67L48]

Originally Posted by Bob414

Another vote for Bal Levers. Simply park, put the Bal Lever under low side wheel and use the supplied 3/4 inch wrench to raise to level. No need to chock that wheel either.

And another vote. First thing I bought when I got my PUP a few years back. It remains the best RV accessory I've ever bought. It's not close, either.

[CyclePilot]

Originally Posted by Bob414

Another vote for Bal Levers. Simply park, put the Bal Lever under low side wheel and use the supplied 3/4 inch wrench to raise to level. No need to chock that wheel either.

this is DEFINITELY the best way to level a Pop Up. I’ve tried just about everything out there when I had my Popup and this sis def what worked best for me FWIW

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by JP Camper

Invest in a BAL Single Wheel leveler, worth it’s weight in gold.

Most popular leveling product for owners of single axle trailers. Ask popup owners.

[CaptnJohn]

I have owned the electric 4 points my on a Cougar, the electric 6 point on a HC, and now the hydraulic 6 point on a Montana. I used the wood for leveling for firewood. I have 1 block of yellow plastic blocks that have not been used yet. I put Snap Pads on the HC and Montana. I unhook and push the button. Never a problem.

[MattCrecelius]

Originally Posted by JasonRW1910ESP

This may be a stupid question but it’s my first pop up. We were doing a trial run of setting up in the yard and the camper wasn’t level side to side. I pulled it up on blocks on the low side and it still wasn’t level. I raised the jack to get it off the hitch and lowered the stabilizer jacks but the camper was very shaky and didn’t feel comfortable setting it up all the way. Any suggestions on setting up on unlevel ground?

Just traded in our pop-up. We used one of these

https://smile.amazon.com/BAL-28050-L...L+level&sr=8-2

Level side to side first, then front to back and then stabilizers

[Mike91]

I level with lynx levelers. I have 4 bags of 10 that I used starting with my 2005 Rockwood Freedom 2290 Pop Up, and collected more as needed, for the travel trailers.

DO NOT LEVEL WITH STABILIZERS. Just in case you didn't know, you will twist your frame and do really bad damage to stuff. They are only for stabilizing by keeping the camper movements down (but not completely gone) and keeping the camper from flipping up.

I guess there's a BAL single wheel leveler that looks cute but previously they had failures in the plate welds and bolt threads. Besides on soft muddy dirt, that u shaped bar foot would likely just sink in the mud where wood or lynx levelers would not. Thought about buying the BAL single wheel leveler for it's simplicity and quickness, but always come to my senses when realizing not every site has hard, compacted soil.

I use a bubble level on main sections of the frame that are true, so that I can get a precise indication. Then stack the lynx levelers as high as needed on the low side. Then use the front jack to level front to back.

Good luck and happy camping.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

I have owned the electric 4 points my on a Cougar, the electric 6 point on a HC, and now the hydraulic 6 point on a Montana. I used the wood for leveling for firewood. I have 1 block of yellow plastic blocks that have not been used yet. I put Snap Pads on the HC and Montana. I unhook and push the button. Never a problem.

This thread is in the Tent Camper and Popup section and the OP said they owned a popup.
Popups don't have such systems.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by Mike91

I level with lynx levelers. I have 4 bags of 10 that I used starting with my 2005 Rockwood Freedom 2290 Pop Up, and collected more as needed, for the travel trailers.

Four sets of levelers? That is a lot of valuable storage space. I use the Andersons to save space and time. You don't have to guess about the number of blocks and then add or subtract after checking level as its a continuous height change. Although I would think after awhile you'll get fairly good at guessing how many blocks based on the bubble.


https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Ander...24707035&psc=1