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Old 07-21-2023, 07:30 AM   #1
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Lost power 1940 ltd

Circuit breaker tripped during electrical storm overnight. Power to the camper from power pole at campsite is ok. Flipped circuit breaker back on & still no power. (Portable ac unit was running along with ice maker at the time so storm may have been a coincidence) ideas???
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Old 07-21-2023, 08:02 AM   #2
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What circuit breaker tripped?
The one at the pedestal or the one in your R/V?

Do you have a multimeter and know how to use it?
You have to start with the basics.
Start checking voltage at the pedestal and then through your shore cord and then in your power distribution box inside the R/V.

Let us know your findings.
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Old 07-21-2023, 07:09 PM   #3
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Update

Multi meter is home 🫤… power 30amp at campsite was providing power to camper via 110 connection with 30 amp adapter . Circuit breaker at power pole never tripped. Portable ac was running fine for about 6-7 hours … I may have overloaded circuit when I added the ice maker… but it ran for about an hour as well before everything went dead in the middle of the thunderstorm overnight.
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Old 07-21-2023, 07:36 PM   #4
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Well... it sounds as though you have a 50a shore power connection on your R/V as you've mentioned a 30a adapter... is it good?

Did you try tripping the pedestal breaker and resetting? You never answered that question. We don't know what breaker you tripped? The one at the pedestal, the one in your R/V?

You need to know whether you have 120v on each side of your 50a power distribution box in your R/V. A $7 meter from Harbor Freight will tell you that and then you'll have one to keep in your rig.
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Old 07-22-2023, 07:17 AM   #5
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Not sure my response went thru … spotty internet. 30a at pedestal (breaker never popped/but. Recycled it. Very simple system inside popup-2 CB one ac one for dc. Ac breaker on , dc breaker off. Air conditioning ran for 6-7 hours no problems, ice maker ran for 1-2 hours before everything died.
Recycled inside CB several times. Have tried 30a connection without adapter as well. I figured out a workaround using extension cords from pedestal
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Old 07-22-2023, 08:20 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Dankwest View Post
Not sure my response went thru … spotty internet. 30a at pedestal (breaker never popped/but. Recycled it. Very simple system inside popup-2 CB one ac one for dc. Ac breaker on , dc breaker off. Air conditioning ran for 6-7 hours no problems, ice maker ran for 1-2 hours before everything died.
Recycled inside CB several times. Have tried 30a connection without adapter as well. I figured out a workaround using extension cords from pedestal
OK, so not 50a. Your adapter must have been 30a to 15a. Information that would have been good to include in your original post.

Again, 5 minutes with a multimeter will stop all the guessing. Check voltage at the connection you are plugging into. Then check your shore cord and at the power distribution box. Then check the branch circuits all the way to the outlets in question.
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Old 07-22-2023, 09:43 AM   #7
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As I understand it, you've got a 2022 Rockwood pop up tent camper.

Is the electric still out?
It sounds like you've run extension cords from the 110 outlet at the pole to your air conditioner and ice maker as a 'work around'. Correct?

Lots of things could be wrong, but you need to be able to test where the connection has been broken. It could be anything from a broken cord, a fried trailer connection or something wrong in your power panel or a blown fuse.

If your battery isn't charging, that's a problem because you need a charged battery for the brakes on the trailer. You could put a battery charger on it, but you're probably are running out of extension cords. Try to not run the battery down til you can get this fixed.... and buy a surge protector for the future (you can get them for under $50.)

Is your rig still under warranty?
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Old 07-25-2023, 01:52 PM   #8
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check to see if you have a GFI outlet. if that tripped, you may not have power either -
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Old 07-31-2023, 03:16 PM   #9
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Angry Update - Still no power at outlets

Did some checking with a multi-meter.

Have two circuit breakers, (15a and 20a) 15a is for everything 120v other than a Air Conditioner which is on the 20a breaker.

Pulled both breakers and bench tested, they tested ok for continuity.

The 20a breaker controls a separate single outlet for the AC unit (which we don't have), the outlet does show 120v, and it does work properly.

There is a single GFCI outlet (with non responsive test/reset buttons) no inbound power (pulled the outlet & tested all connections).

No power at the refrigerator outlet.

The DC side of things appears to be fine, tested all fuses, and overhead lights work ok.

I am thinking that I may have fried something in the power supply unit at the 15amp circuit (WF8700 series)?? Any way I can test this without pulling it?

Any other thoughts for this rookie pretending to be an electrician??
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Old 07-31-2023, 06:56 PM   #10
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You didn't mention a year on your post for your camper but I am assuming 2015 +

Firstly, the GFCI will not reset unless the circuit is energized so you cant test those if they are dead. The power box has nothing to do with the 110 power other than as a distribution spot and it taps the 110 to convert to 12V for the 12V systems. I don't see how you could have "Fried" that.

The way that box is wired is your socket on the sidewall for shore power runs into a hole in the distribution box and straight to a MAIN breaker in the box. That main then daisy chains to the other breakers on the bus bar. Wires connect to the common, breaker out and ground and run out the back of the box to distribute power. You already mentioned 110 at the AC outlet. If all else fails disconnect short power, remove the wire from the 15 amp and connect it to the 20 since you know its outputting power. Test with a fan or small device to see if you get power at your internal breakers. Use a small device like a fan or something. Yes its not great to hook a 20amp to your wires but for a quick test its ok. So long as you don't actually pull the 20amps your safe which is why I said test with a small device. Getting into the box is easy, the cover comes right off with 4 screws and you will see the breakers and bus bars I was talking about.

Did you test the 110 off the bottom leg of the breakers that the wire hooks up to?

If you don't have that set up then post a photo and more info about the camper.

FYI I was able to get those breakers at my local Lowes or HD when I added one.
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Old 07-31-2023, 08:23 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by flyerdp View Post
You didn't mention a year on your post for your camper but I am assuming 2015 +

Firstly, the GFCI will not reset unless the circuit is energized so you cant test those if they are dead. The power box has nothing to do with the 110 power other than as a distribution spot and it taps the 110 to convert to 12V for the 12V systems. I don't see how you could have "Fried" that.

The way that box is wired is your socket on the sidewall for shore power runs into a hole in the distribution box and straight to a MAIN breaker in the box. That main then daisy chains to the other breakers on the bus bar. Wires connect to the common, breaker out and ground and run out the back of the box to distribute power. You already mentioned 110 at the AC outlet. If all else fails disconnect short power, remove the wire from the 15 amp and connect it to the 20 since you know its outputting power. Test with a fan or small device to see if you get power at your internal breakers. Use a small device like a fan or something. Yes its not great to hook a 20amp to your wires but for a quick test its ok. So long as you don't actually pull the 20amps your safe which is why I said test with a small device. Getting into the box is easy, the cover comes right off with 4 screws and you will see the breakers and bus bars I was talking about.

Did you test the 110 off the bottom leg of the breakers that the wire hooks up to?

If you don't have that set up then post a photo and more info about the camper.

FYI I was able to get those breakers at my local Lowes or HD when I added one.
Sorry its a 2022-23 1940 LTD, your description sounds about right for the layout. The only mod I have made was to replace the single 15a CB with a double 15a, so I could isolate the converter when using my inverter. That was done last year, and works out fine, I just flip the converter off using the single 15a breaker for the converter. I'm aware of testing the CGFI outlet, as mentioned there is no power going to it. I'll check out your suggestion(s) tomorrow and repost.
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Old 08-01-2023, 07:22 AM   #12
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you mentioned that you found a "work around" using a extension cord?


did you test the power cords you originally had connected?
measure voltage with the multimeter

Start with pedestal / outlet
then the power cord ends
then trailer power inlets (that you plug the cord into to supply power to the trailer)

then to distribution/breakers





testing requires taking steps in a certain order...
bypassing a device / connection point will muddy up the test results
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Old 08-01-2023, 07:42 AM   #13
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If you have a portable 120VAC appliance/light, plug it directly into the pedestal outlet you are using and determine if you have power there. The 15/20A outlet in the pedestal would have the smallest value breaker and as such the trailer should be ok, If you have power at the pedestal it could be your 15A/30A adapter especially if it is the inexpensive ones provided with some RVs.
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Old 08-01-2023, 08:54 AM   #14
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If you have a portable 120VAC appliance/light, plug it directly into the pedestal outlet you are using and determine if you have power there. The 15/20A outlet in the pedestal would have the smallest value breaker and as such the trailer should be ok, If you have power at the pedestal it could be your 15A/30A adapter especially if it is the inexpensive ones provided with some RVs.
Well, I'm back home and connected to the outlet I use for the trailer via the 15a/30a line with a 110v adaptor. I would think that the connection from pole to trailer has to be good or I wouldn't have any power at the 20a circuit/outlet inside the trailer?

I tested this circuit/outlet yesterday by plugging in my portable AC unit directly into this outlet and it works fine.

I'm going to retest the 15a circuit breaker (at the bottom leg where the wire connects), although it tested ok for continuity as a bench test, cycling the cb on and off.

If this test establishes that I do have power at the 15a CB when connected, then something is amiss from that point to distributing power to the outlets, etc. If there is no power there I will replace the CB and try again.
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Old 08-01-2023, 12:42 PM   #15
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Issue has been resolved...

It shall remain one of the great mysteries in life.... . Upon testing wire with a "no-touch" voltage tester...I confirmed power in, but no power out from the power controller.

Somehow, in the middle of a rain storm, with my portable AC unit plugged in, my ice maker plugged in (outside under the trailer) the black power wire from the 15amp circuit breaker became unattached (not loose but disconnected totally) from the twist connector, causing no power outbound to the outlets. Being black wires in a dark box and me with bad eyesight I just didn't see it until I was checking power at the wires this am.

All the rest was "coincidences" that led me down rabbit holes I didn't need to go down. Now just HOW the wire came unattached inside the Power Box I have no idea. If it had taken place while we were on the road, I could have chalked it up road vibration. But the power worked fine after we arrived and set up. Power didn't go out until the middle of the first night during the storm...

And when the wire separated, it caused the breaker to pop as well as the CGFI outlet to pop. Bottom line it was a good learning experience for this rookie non electrician! Like most problems, it's usually the stupid simple stuff that turns out to be an easy solution. Damn Gremlins!

Thanks to all for your input and advice. Most importantly my wife is now a "happy camper" as well.....
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Old 08-01-2023, 02:52 PM   #16
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Congrats enjoy your trip!
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Old 08-01-2023, 04:56 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Dankwest View Post
Most importantly my wife is now a "happy camper" as well.....
That's the most important outcome.

A suggestion... If you don't already have a portable surge protector, buy one and use it on your future camping trips.

Thanks for sharing what the problem was.
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Old 08-04-2023, 04:56 AM   #18
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I also have a 1940 LTD and am running a portable air conditioner but I have it plugged into the 20 amp air conditioner outlet under the seat above the water pump. This is part of the AC prep and it is isolated from the other outlets in the camper.
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