Bleach in a spray bottle, diluted 60 water 40 bleach, soak the whole area till dripping. Put in direct sunlight or use a fan to blow air on it. That will kill all the mold the stain might still be there but the mold will be dead.
Toyota FJ cruiser
Flagstaff E-Pro 16BHG
Mold Armor in the bright green bottle at Home Depot or amazon... canvas, vinyl, awning, gelcoat on the camper... black mold disappears within 2 minutes... wipe dry with a rag, or do it on a warm sunny days... the thread on the vinyl gets black quickly... spray it and it gets white again
works like magic... just used it again on recent trip to FL... only about $5 for a bottle... I leave one in the camper at all times... and use it constantly everywhere
My OH valley home is humid and mold seems to grow on everything. THe camper is usually parked from Aug to January. When I open it again in FL I need to clean everything... Mold Armor is first thing I use. I also like Awesome from Dollar Store for counters and toilet.
my tent is not all 100% vinyl, only the top, and front panel are. The two zip closed side panels are cloth canvas. It does not matter as I use the mold armor on both, inside and out as necessary. When camping in cooler weather often perspiration moisture will condense on the inside, and will then cause some mold issues on the inside if the next day becomes warm and humid weather if you do not dry the interior vinyl. Wiping with a rag damp with Mold armor makes quick work.
It is counter-intuitive to leave the vinyl end unzipped a bit and a ceiling vent open when it is cold, but this will keep moisture condensation on the inside tent end to a minimum. The electric bunk heater in the mattress is a blessing at this time.
The side canvas needs to be re-water proofed after cleaning. I use any kind of water proofing that I can find. When in an all-day, all-night rain, bed clothes can wick water through the canvas ( not the vinyl) and make your bed wet. that usually happens to me on my feet end, as I roll and kick the covers at night and I am a little over 6 feet tall. I re-apply the water-proofing ( actually most are just water-resistant that I have found) at least twice per year, both inside and out.
I then treat the vinyl with 303 UV protectant for obvious reasons.
PS Mold Armor will bleach and spot T-shirts, jeans, etc. and your mattress so use accordingly.
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Florida is known for mold and mildew especially during the summer. A great product is called "Marine 31" you can find it on line. My boat sat on my lift although its covered the rain gets in when winds are high. It's those horizontal gusts that bring in rain water and add high temperatures and humidity. It sat like that for 5 months. I was advised to use "Marine 31 by a local marina on fiberglass and vinyl seats. it work better than the bleach and everything else I tried. Using it wasn't hard at all, spray and brush some tough spots I had to do twice.
If you try hydrogen peroxide, let it sit for a bit before you wipe it off. It might be best to test it on a small corner because it might discolor the fabric. I've used it to kill mold, but not on canvas.
Another mold killer is KrudKutter. Stuff is strong enough to remove paint, but cleans pretty well. Non toxic too.
Our popup is much like RSDATA's. The only canvas on our popup is 4 side windows. Last year was an extremely wet camping season for us and we ended up getting some mildew/mold on our canvas windows. We tried IOSSOs and a few other mild products with no results. We've had very good luck with Miracle Mist though, it removed 99.99% of the markings. One important thing to remember is to wipe it as clean as you can get it to remove the chemicals after. Once that's complete DO NOT FORGET to re-waterproof the canvas. We also used 303 Fabric Guard to waterproof.
2014 Forest River/Flagstaff M.A.C. 228
2017 Wrangler Unlimited Sahara, Factory Max Tow Package