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Old 03-04-2016, 03:37 PM   #1
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Need picture of Rockwood safety switch in sink area

Most Rockwood popups have a safety switch for the overhead lights on the folding sink that keep the lights off when the top is down. My unit does not have this and I would like to see how others are setup so that I can get the parts and modify my PUP.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 03-04-2016, 03:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasNightSky View Post
Most Rockwood popups have a safety switch for the overhead lights on the folding sink that keep the lights off when the top is down. My unit does not have this and I would like to see how others are setup so that I can get the parts and modify my PUP.

Thanks,
Mike
Mine was in a Coleman Cheyenne and was nothing more than a momentary switch that was depressed by the bottom of the sink/stove assembly when in the "use" position. You had to lower the assembly when you wanted to close the popup for travel.

It was very similar to this switch.

https://www.grainger.com/category/rocker-switches/manual-and-foot-switches/industrial-controls-automation-and-machine-safety/electrical/ecatalog/N-qh8

If you are lucky and can find the initial 12v feed to the camper lights only, you place the switch inline at that point. You may have to do a little rerouting with wire to achieve the location you want.

If you have any pics of the interior, I may be able to assist in recommending a course of action.
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:07 PM   #3
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Wow, never heard of a pup that didn't come with the plunger kill switch.

i owned two different brands of pups and both had the plunger kill switch.
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:25 PM   #4
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Yeah, I was very disappointed to find out that it did not have it by finding my light on, melted, and starting to burn my vinyl tent....
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:30 PM   #5
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I do have access to the light wiring I believe as there is a wire routed right behind the sink going up the support post. I plan on testing that wire and then tying in there. I just want to see a basic setup, I'm sure I could rig one, but I'd like it to look as stock as possible.

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 03-04-2016, 05:39 PM   #6
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I have two on my Flagstaff which is just Rockewood with a different name. One is for the overhead power and the other is for the water pump.
This is what both look like...

Do you have any holes where the switches might have been? Hard to believe the popup didn't have a switch to cut the overhead power.

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Old 03-06-2016, 01:20 AM   #7
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I just ran into somebody today with a new 1940 that I got to look at. That plunger picture is exactly what his had, but mine definitely does not have that. I will be ordering one and installing it myself. Thanks for the help.
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Old 03-14-2016, 04:29 PM   #8
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Just setup my rockwood 1940 at a primitive camp, must go with 12 volt batt. The sink contact switch broke so no lights. However, shouldn't the circuit work if I just touch the wires together independent of the switch? I found a similar switch at Radio Shack to try out. I checked all the fuses, made sure the outside compartment main switch area that the red 12 volt only switch was on, but did not get the lights/water pump to work; tested with a good second battery and no luck either. What might be the problem? Would appreciate any help as my wife and daughter are going too, don't want to disappoint them. Thank you!!
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Old 03-15-2016, 12:54 PM   #9
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sink switch

The one on my 1940 sink I believe controls both the overhead lights and the water pump circuit. Hope I can restore function!
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:04 AM   #10
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sink switch

Like I posted before, I secured another switch for the sink to hopefully restore overhead lights/water pump operation. At the primitive camp I usually only use gas for the refrigerator and cooking. Should the 12 volt red rocker switch be on for the pump operation? I don't recall having it on before when the lights and pump were operational. To repeat, I checked all the fuses and the breakers and they appear ok. I did not know about a possible reset switch under the trailer tongue- never looked there before- did not see a reset by the breakers either. I am taking all my portable lamps and extra water thinking I may not solve this. I am buying a set of new fuses to try that. I would appreciate any other suggestions!
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:13 AM   #11
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I have two switches under my sink, one for overhead power and one for the water pump.

I know my water pump does NOT have to be on for the overhead lights and fan to work since I only turn it on when I plan on using the water. And early camping like next week, I never fill the water tanks due to possible freezing weather.
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Old 03-16-2016, 07:50 AM   #12
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switch

Thank you! We might get into the 50's next week but nothing worse. The water pump rocker switch is adjacent to the fuse box (I hear the newer models have breakers) and my lights can also work independently of the pump. Right now neither are working thus my dilemma. I left the camper at the site for the week, should have brought it home to test with shore power! Well, plenty of lamps and water will offset this for the while.
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Old 03-19-2016, 01:47 PM   #13
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The switches under the sink/stove. Right is water pump, left is overhead electrical...
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Old 03-28-2016, 07:38 AM   #14
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sink switch

Found the problem...an inline fuse under the trailer tongue, spade type 25 amp and that was that!
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:53 PM   #15
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Thanks for posting your solution.
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Old 04-04-2016, 08:56 PM   #16
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Our old pup had a micro switch that tripped when the end slides were in. No plunger.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:03 AM   #17
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switch

Good! I could not find the same activation switch so I found one that I can press manually and have the lights working.
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:40 PM   #18
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Just an update, I purchased the switch directly from Forest River with a number of other items also.

Part # 10-2683 – kill switch – silver push button
Cost $ 11.64 each

When I went to install it, I was going to install it between a splice going up to the lights, but then I found a rogue set of wires bundled up with the wires going to the water pump. I pulled back the taped wrapping and found a wire labeled 12 Volt. It was a single wire that had two female spades and a shunt between them... I pulled it apart and all my lights went out. I then drilled a hole for my switch, attached the wires, installed the switch and everything works as it should.

f5moab, Thanks for the information and pictures. It got me where I needed to be.

Mike
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Old 04-08-2016, 04:47 PM   #19
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Glad to be of help. So, do you wonder if someone forgot to install the switch, or was the dealer supposed to install it?
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Old 04-08-2016, 06:50 PM   #20
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Glad to be of help. So, do you wonder if someone forgot to install the switch, or was the dealer supposed to install it?
I believe the dealer should have done it. It looks like whoever was doing the wiring didn't know what they were doing. I've never seen one without that switch.

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