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Old 06-10-2024, 07:54 AM   #1
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New owner with lots of questions

Hello all! I am new here and completely new to campers in general.

I just purchased a 2044 flagstaff 625-d camper. I have a lot of questions about it and your help would be greatly appreciated.

1. I have checked that the lights, A/C, and fan do work on 110v power. I have also confirmed that the battery is charged up. All fuses in the camper are good. The lights and fan will not turn on when disconnected from 110v. Is there a switch somewhere that I need to use to run off the battery?

2. The fridge is supposed to work on 110v or 12v or propane. How can I tell if the propane is running? I have found the switched for the power options. I can see the pizio spark when I click it. Should I be able to see a pilot light?

3. The water pump should work on 12v or 110v I assume. When I hook directly into a hose, is there a switch or valve I need to open/close to get off the water tank?

4. How does the heater on these things work?

Sorry, I know it is a lot to ask.
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Old 06-10-2024, 08:39 AM   #2
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In as much as you seem to be 20 years into the future, 2044, oh that must be 2024. Sorry.

To answer these questions, you really should get someone personally knowledgeable about each of these systems. Have them explain what they do, how they should be used and what to look for if and when they don't.

There are many different systems on your unit that one needs to understand. 120V AC, LP, 12V DC, shore power, house battery power, on-board water system, city water system and Heating and Air Conditioning, etc.

Perhaps the Dealer should have done all of this for you. If not, they owe you 2 or 3 hrs. of time. And you will need to take notes and make pictures and maybe a video for future reference.

Good luck with your new unit. Learn about it correctly and you will enjoy it.

Bob
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Old 06-10-2024, 08:50 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by 2004flagstaff625d View Post
1. I have checked that the lights, A/C, and fan do work on 110v power. I have also confirmed that the battery is charged up. All fuses in the camper are good. The lights and fan will not turn on when disconnected from 110v. Is there a switch somewhere that I need to use to run off the battery?

2. The fridge is supposed to work on 110v or 12v or propane. How can I tell if the propane is running? I have found the switched for the power options. I can see the pizio spark when I click it. Should I be able to see a pilot light?

3. The water pump should work on 12v or 110v I assume. When I hook directly into a hose, is there a switch or valve I need to open/close to get off the water tank?

4. How does the heater on these things work?

Sorry, I know it is a lot to ask.
1. There is probably a battery disconnect switch that needs to be turned off, but I don't know where it's located.
2. There is no pilot light. It's and electronic igniter. You need to make certain that the 'mode' is set to propane or auto. Auto switches automatically from electric to lp when you disconnect from shore power (and vice versa).
3. Nope. Just turn off the water pump.
4. What heater? The furnace or water heater.

'The dealer should have given you a walk through covering all systems when you bought it, but sometimes it's a lot to remember. You might be able to call them and get some answers.

Welcome to the forum!
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Old 06-10-2024, 08:53 AM   #4
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There's lots of things that need 12vDC in a camper. Either from the battery or from the converter (which converts 120vAC to 12vDC). Get this fixed first. Common to wire the battery backwards and blow the battery protection fuses but the converter should still power everything when connected to shorepower.

The refrigerators common in popups don't have a pilot light there's a tiny flame on all the time the refrig is in operation. Tiny as in very hard to see in daylight. Check tonight. The logic circuit in the refrigerator needs 12vDC power to run.

Your water heater may be DSI but also needs 12vDC to function on propane. (Starting to see the pattern here?)

Lights, water pump, and other items only work on 12vDC nor 120vAC. But the converter in the power center will supply that 12vDC when connected to shorepower.

-- Chuck
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:00 AM   #5
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I'm not seeing a 2024 listing for that camper.

In any case, your dealer should have walked you through the various systems.

Generally, most, if not all the lights should work on 12v and all fans, except any involving the aircon should too. You may have a battery disconnect switch that needs to be turned on. Look for a big red, or black knob, usually near the battery.

Test that you have propane and it is purged, by turning on the stove. Once it lights, then try the fridge again. Once lit, you should be able to hear the burner.

The WP is 12v and there may, or not, be a valve to turn.

A pic of the water heater would help. There should be some labeling.

Did you not get any documentation, or manuals when you bought it?
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:24 AM   #6
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Judging from the handle, this is probably a 2004 model.

I transpose numbers sometimes too. It happens.

Possible private sale, so no dealer walkthrough and docs and manuals may be gone.

Youtube will still be your friend. Find the closest in age and model and nose around from there.
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:29 AM   #7
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Moved thread from the General Tech and Repair section to the Tent Camper and Popup section since the OP has a popup and for better help from other Popup owners.
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:29 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck_S View Post
There's lots of things that need 12vDC in a camper. Either from the battery or from the converter (which converts 120vAC to 12vDC). Get this fixed first. Common to wire the battery backwards and blow the battery protection fuses but the converter should still power everything when connected to shorepower.

The refrigerators common in popups don't have a pilot light there's a tiny flame on all the time the refrig is in operation. Tiny as in very hard to see in daylight. Check tonight. The logic circuit in the refrigerator needs 12vDC power to run.

Your water heater may be DSI but also needs 12vDC to function on propane. (Starting to see the pattern here?)

Lights, water pump, and other items only work on 12vDC nor 120vAC. But the converter in the power center will supply that 12vDC when connected to shorepower.

-- Chuck
I will check that tonight. Thank you!
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Old 06-10-2024, 09:32 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by DJ252 View Post
I'm not seeing a 2024 listing for that camper.

In any case, your dealer should have walked you through the various systems.

Generally, most, if not all the lights should work on 12v and all fans, except any involving the aircon should too. You may have a battery disconnect switch that needs to be turned on. Look for a big red, or black knob, usually near the battery.

Test that you have propane and it is purged, by turning on the stove. Once it lights, then try the fridge again. Once lit, you should be able to hear the burner.

The WP is 12v and there may, or not, be a valve to turn.

A pic of the water heater would help. There should be some labeling.

Did you not get any documentation, or manuals when you bought it?
I have an owners manual but it was a private sale so no dealer walk through. I will look for the battery disconnect after work today. I suppose that could be why nothing works unless I'm plugged in. Thank you for your help!
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Old 06-10-2024, 10:01 AM   #10
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I doubt if there is a battery disconnect on a 2004 popup camper but I’ve never had one.
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Old 06-10-2024, 10:44 AM   #11
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I doubt if there is a battery disconnect on a 2004 popup camper but Iíve never had one.
You are correct, no factory battery disconnect switch on popups.
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:01 AM   #12
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You are correct, no factory battery disconnect switch on popups.
That means everything should work on 12v if I'm not on shore power, right?
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:06 AM   #13
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Likely you need a can of contac cleaner and time to clean connections.

Fridges running on propane need 12 volt or the converter. They cool slowly. Open the access panel and carefully touch the pipes. They get warm.

Gas appliances are known for being full of crud. Often bugs like them.

Get out there and work on one piece at a time. All this is normal.

Battery first.
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:11 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by 2004flagstaff625d View Post
That means everything should work on 12v if I'm not on shore power, right?
Not everything. Some things are 120 volt AC only and some things are 12 volt DC only.
Let's start your RV 101 education off with this thread first:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...nt-152813.html

then let's see if your camper has a 12 volt DC circuit breaker that may be tripped as per this thread

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...et-154141.html
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:17 AM   #15
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Not everything. Some things are 120 volt AC only and some things are 12 volt DC only.
Let's start you off with this thread first:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...nt-152813.html

then let's see if your camper has a 12 volt DC circuit breaker that may be tripped as per this thread

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...et-154141.html
Thank you! I'll read through these and follow the advice I find.
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:47 AM   #16
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Since this is a 2004 model, I will say my 2004 Rockwood popup camper's Dometic refrigerator was completely manual. Since the OP mentions there's a piezo ignitor, that sounds very much like the one I had. There were two switches for 120 volts or 12 volts, a thermostat, a control knob for the gas, and the ignitor button. I had to turn on whatever source was appropriate, it had no way of switching sources or lighting itself like later ones. The thermostat only applied to 120 volt operation.


To light it on gas, I had to turn the knob to high, push the knob in, and keep hitting the ignitor button periodically for close to a minute to purge all the air out and actually have it light. There was a small shutter at the base of the chimney so you could see a small flame once it lit (very hard to see in daylight), but you had to keep holding the control knob in for 10 seconds or so after it lit for the thermocouple to keep the valve open. The control knob only controlled the flame, the instructions were you might need it on high if it's a hot day, but if it's cool or stuff in the refrigerator was starting to freeze, then you had to turn the control knob down to medium or low.


A tip, my refrigerator didn't work very well until I added a 12 volt computer fan inside the compartment to help move the hot air out through the upper vent. I think there are RV refrigerator fans that do this that actually have a thermostat built in to them so they turn on if the compartment is getting too warm. I just added a switch to turn it on or off manually and wired it to the 12 volt supply for the refrigerator.



Oh, and I could not tow my camper while the refrigerator was running on gas; the wind would blow through the screen and blow out the burner. I would just run it off 12 volts while towing.
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:54 AM   #17
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Likely you need a can of contac cleaner and time to clean connections.

Fridges running on propane need 12 volt or the converter. They cool slowly. Open the access panel and carefully touch the pipes. They get warm.

Gas appliances are known for being full of crud. Often bugs like them.

Get out there and work on one piece at a time. All this is normal.

Battery first.
Thank you, I'll try cleaning the contacts
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Old 06-10-2024, 11:54 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by dsherman26 View Post
Since this is a 2004 model, I will say my 2004 Rockwood popup camper's Dometic refrigerator was completely manual. Since the OP mentions there's a piezo ignitor, that sounds very much like the one I had. There were two switches for 120 volts or 12 volts, a thermostat, a control knob for the gas, and the ignitor button. I had to turn on whatever source was appropriate, it had no way of switching sources or lighting itself like later ones. The thermostat only applied to 120 volt operation.


To light it on gas, I had to turn the knob to high, push the knob in, and keep hitting the ignitor button periodically for close to a minute to purge all the air out and actually have it light. There was a small shutter at the base of the chimney so you could see a small flame once it lit (very hard to see in daylight), but you had to keep holding the button for 10 seconds or so after it lit for the thermocouple to keep the valve open. The control knob only controlled the flame, the instructions were you might need it on high if it's a hot day, but if it's cool or stuff in the refrigerator was starting to freeze, then you had to turn the control knob down to medium or low.


A tip, my refrigerator didn't work very well until I added a 12 volt computer fan inside the compartment to help move the hot air out through the upper vent. I think there are RV refrigerator fans that do this that actually have a thermostat built in to them so they turn on if the compartment is getting too warm. I just added a switch to turn it on or off manually and wired it to the 12 volt supply for the refrigerator.



Oh, and I could not tow my camper while the refrigerator was running on gas; the wind would blow through the screen and blow out the burner. I would just run it off 12 volts while towing.
This sounds exactly like my fridge. I will try to purge the air out. Thank you
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Old 06-10-2024, 12:59 PM   #19
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This sounds exactly like my fridge. I will try to purge the air out. Thank you

Good luck! I realized I may have created some confusion, I meant you have to keep pushing the control knob in for 10 seconds or so after lighting the gas burner. Whatever source you end up using, I will say that refrigerator was slow to cool off. It could take a few hours before it would be cold inside, so I'd usually turn it on the day before I'd go camping.
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Old 06-10-2024, 02:28 PM   #20
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A few clarifications...

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2. There is no pilot light. It's and electronic igniter. You need to make certain that the 'mode' is set to propane or auto. Auto switches automatically from electric to lp when you disconnect from shore power (and vice versa).
You must turn on the propane tanks, by opening the valves. (The regulator automatically switches to the tank its handle point at but that's a question for another day.)

Before attempting to run the furnace OR the water heater, it's always a good idea to light the range burners and let them burn until they burn steadily. Somehow air seems to get into the system when everything is off, and it's better to purge the air through the range burners than trying to light the water heater or furnace which you can't see.
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3. Nope. Just turn off the water pump.
To expand on this, there are check valves (one-way valves) at the water pump and at the city water inlet. When you provide pressure from one input, the other one automatically shuts off.

Never run the water pump and city water at the same time. Both valves start to open and city water overpowers the pump. This can result in filling and overflowing your fresh water tank.
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Originally Posted by Reverse_snowbird View Post
4. What heater? The furnace or water heater.
The furnace generally works by setting the thermostat to a temperature higher than ambient and setting the Cool-Off-Heat switch to heat. If you have an electronic thermostat, it will be about the same.

There are two basic water heater types: Tank and Tankless. I'll guess you have a tank type. Among the tank types, some use propane, some use electricity, and some use either or both. Tell us what make and model you have for more info. NEVER ATTEMPT TO HEAT THE WATER HEATER WITHOUT ASSURING THERE IS WATER IN THE TANK. MOST PEOPLE DRAIN THE WATER HEATER OVER THE WINTER TO PREVENT FREEZING. ATTEMPTING TO DO SO, ELECTRIC OR GAS, WILL CAUSE DAMAGE.
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