No DC power

[Flybob]

When you say "it works on shore power, but not on battery" Is that testing the same day /same setup?

[flyerdp]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Ahh... but did you read the very last line in that paragraph on page 3?...



No fuses, (or blown) = no power from the converter to the board where the individual circuit fuses are.

I don't think we have enough info to know for sure what he has and how it matches up to that document. My older camper worked fined on shore power when battery fuses were removed.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by flyerdp

So, if the reverse polarity fuse(s) are blown then the battery is disconnected and you get no 12V power on battery only but you still will from the WFCO on shore power.

UHHH, that's not accurate. As per their manual and also progressive dynamics..if the reverse polarity fuses are blown, there is NO connection to the DC board from the converter.....so the converter CANNOT provide ANY power to the 12 volt DC items if the reverse polarity fuses are blown. Please reread their manuals. Thanks

When the reverse polarity fuses are blown, you should be able to still use any 12 volt DC items, via the battery...and NOT the converter.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by flyerdp

I don't think we have enough info to know for sure what he has and how it matches up to that document. My older camper worked fined on shore power when battery fuses were removed.

Yes, you can take the entire battery out of the scenario and the converter will power up the 12 volt DC items in the RV.....however if you remove the reverse polarity fuses to the converter, then the converter will not power anything. You may just be confusing which fuses are where.

[pgandw]

Popups and A-frames (and anything else with the WFCO 8735P converter): The reverse polarity fuse(s) and the 30A battery fuse are TWO DIFFERENT THINGS. If your popup is wired the way the factory intended, the ONLY thing on the "battery" 30A fuse is the battery. However, I have friends who had other things on that circuit besides the battery from the factory.

The 30A battery fuse will pop if anything unusual happens to your batteries. In my case, I'm guessing that it popped when one of my dual Group 24 batteries failed. The battery case cover flew off on the highway, and unbeknownst to me (we were on shore power for a 4 day trip) the battery fuse popped, and one of the batteries shorted a cell. Don't know for sure what order events happened in because we were on shore power the whole trip and didn't notice any battery issues besides the missing cover until we got home. Could have even been caused by my stupidity - I left the safety chains and emergency breakaway attached while pulling forward with the tow vehicle after unhitching. Note: I am still reminded of all the mistakes I made that trip by DW.

In the 7 years since, I have never had the battery fuse pop again - or towed the camper by the safety chains. On my 2nd A-frame, and 3rd tow vehicle since.

Fred W
2019 Flagstaff T21TBHW A-frame
2022 Hyundai Palisade

[Reverse_snowbird]

Originally Posted by PTMinSTL

Once I was able to open it up I found that the 30amp battery fuse on the converter was blown. If it happens again, what could cause that fuse to blow?

To answer your question....Obviously, reverse polarity like the battery being hooked up incorrectly.
Also, the campground connection could have 'reverse polarity'. We've encountered that in both public and private campgrounds.

If you don't have one, get a surge protector or EMS that checks for reverse polarity and check the post before you plug the camper in. Obviously, if it detects 'reverse polarity' don't plug in and tell the office and find another spot. Don't let the 'electrician' on site tell you that reverse polarity doesn't matter. It's your camper and you need to make certain it's getting proper power.
An EMS will usually not allow power to the camper if it detects something wired incorrectly.