No hot water pressure

[mickemouse]

Whether city water or potable tank water via a pump, we get proper pressure from the cold water side in all faucets, showers, etc.

The hot water fills up with water and pressure appropriately.

But the hot water does not exit the valve to the faucets, etc. Nothing.

Also, when the valves are in the by-pass positions, there is no water pressure either on the not side.

After looking at many topics, could it be as simple that the by-pass valve system was put in backwards?

Please look at the two pictures.
First - our HW277.
Second - found on a forum site.

[wmtire]

First pic with the handles turned parallel with the bypass line is the bypass position, and no water can either enter or exit the tank.

The second pic with the handles turned towards the tank is the normal operating position, and how they should be for usage of the hot water heater. See this link/post #4 below:

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post1826511

How did you confirm there is pressure and/or water in the tank?

[mickemouse]

Yes, I confirmed water and pressure in the hot water tank through the emergency value. Also confirmed with removing top (hot) fitting (after releasing most of the pressure and water) from the tank.

So, water is not moving from the tank through the valve into the hot water hoses.

So, I am not understanding the construction of the values to know if the by-pass system is backwards, the valves are "one-way" only, etc.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by mickemouse

Yes, I confirmed water and pressure in the hot water tank through the emergency value. Also confirmed with removing top (hot) fitting (after releasing most of the pressure and water) from the tank.

So, water is not moving from the tank through the valve into the hot water hoses.

So, I am not understanding the construction of the values to know if the by-pass system is backwards, the valves are "one-way" only, etc.

The valves, when the handles are turned parallel with the the hot/cold water lines, are open to the bypass line and closed to the tank. Water cannot enter or exit the tank.


When the handles are turned parallel to the tank, then water can enter/exit the tank, but are closed to the bypass line that connects the cold/hot water lines together.


The only way cold water can enter the tank is if you have the valve on the bottom (cold water) turned where the valve faces the tank. Please adjust it to mirror the pic I sent you in the link above which is post #4 in that link.


The only way water can exit the tank is if you have the valve on the top (hot water) turned also where the valve faces the tank, and also adjust it to the pic in post #4 from the same link. You have both valves wrong in the first pic you posted in your opening post.


You cannot really plumb these bypass T-valves wrong. However they could not be opening/closing internally. Turn these valves correct first, then lets see what happens. The handles need to look like this pic below even though your handles are on bottom of the valve instead of top, but this does not change the function. Make your handles turned towards the tank.

[NavyLCDR]

Basically, both valve handles should point to the back of the water heater to have the water on service like the bottom picture in your first post.

[wmtire]

Take both your bypass handles and turn them in the direction of the arrows in your pic I edited are

[mickemouse]

Your explanation is excellent.

I've done both settings.

The by-pass shown in my picture was when I tried to get by-pass water pressure to the hot side of the faucet. No luck - no water, no pressure, to the hot side of the faucet in the by-pass setting.

I've pointed both valves to the tank for regular hot water use, the tank fills, heats, but no water exits the hot side of the tank. I also feel no water entering the hot (red) pex water line either. (That's why I thought, maybe, the by-pass hose was perhaps backwards.)

At this point, I can't find any other access to see of the red (hot) hoses are crimped somewhere (which is my only other guess). (I'm not sure where I would access the red hoses since they are between the subfloor and finished floor.)

I will also call my dealer for advice as our camper is under warranty. But today is a Sunday ...

Thanks for your help. It has confirmed the process 100%. I just want to get hot H2O down the hose to my faucets.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by mickemouse

I also feel no water entering the hot (red) pex water line either. (That's why I thought, maybe, the by-pass hose was perhaps backwards.)

At this point, I can't find any other access to see of the red (hot) hoses are crimped somewhere (which is my only other guess). (I'm not sure where I would access the red hoses since they are between the subfloor and finished floor.)

Hmmmm, it does sound like either the hot water valve is broke internally, or you do have a kinked/blocked line somewhere between the water heater tank and your faucets.


When you turn the handle on the hot water line, does it feel like it is turning something inside the valve or is it real loose. It should feel the same as the cold water valve does when turning the handles.

[mickemouse]

Both valves turn equally without hesitation.

[wmtire]

OK, I can tell from your pic in your first post, you have a Suburban SW6D water heater. Where is this water heater located in relation to this schematic I am linking to on FR's website:


I'm trying to see if it is possibly in the slideout underneath the dinette benches. If so, then it's highly probable you are getting a kinked/pinched hose there. If it is there, you may can just play a little with the slideout and pull it in somewhat and then see if you get hot water.

[mickemouse]

Yes, underneath the right seat of the slide out. I will try that now.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by mickemouse

Yes, underneath the right seat of the slide out. I will try that now.

I'm going to put my money that is where the problem possibly is. You may can just turn on a hot water faucet, then play with the slideout to see if you get water or hear air or anything coming out..

[mickemouse]

Well, I’ll be.

Pushed in the dinette about six inches and wa-la hot water flowing both regular and bypass. It works.

Now, where is the kink located?

I will call my dealer tomorrow.

THANKS so much. We have pop up camped for 30 years but this is our first new pop up camper with the extra bells and whistles.

Learning a lot.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by mickemouse

Well, I’ll be.

Pushed in the dinette about six inches and wa-la hot water flowing both regular and bypass. It works.

Now, where is the kink located?

I will call my dealer tomorrow.

THANKS so much. We have pop up camped for 30 years but this is our first new pop up camper with the extra bells and whistles.

Learning a lot.

Fantastic. Glad you got it figured out.

[Forrest Gump]

I have the 2020 HW27KS, and it's apparently a common problem that the hose will get a kink in it when setting up. Just happened to me a week or two ago...tugged on the line, and the hot water started flowing. Now I will setup, and just reach under and tug the line a bit to make sure it's clear.

[mickemouse]

Called my dealer. Known problem on HW 277 for the last five years. Customers need to contact Forest River.

So I pulled the red hose out.

The kink is where my thumb is which formerly was inside the access hole.

[NMWildcat]

Originally Posted by mickemouse

Called my dealer. Known problem on HW 277 for the last five years. Customers need to contact Forest River.



So I pulled the red hose out.



The kink is where my thumb is which formerly was inside the access hole.



Attachment 272942

I would replace the hose with better quality so perhaps it will remain flexible but not kink, especially with hot water. I replaced all the flexible hose from the factory in my last several RVs. Sometimes I went with pex and fittings (not very flexible) and in places where it had to flex I used hose with the stainless steel braiding. Much better.

[jimmoore13]

I had a HW-277...with the dinette slide. The hot water heater was in the dinette seat. The plumbing was very straighforward. The hoses are loose under the floor of the slide. You can solve this yourself.

The pump is in the cabinet behind the converter (power center). So, there are 8 screws to remove it. You probably won't need to go in there, but if you do, it's no big deal.

1) Remove the "kick plate" below the floor of the dinette slide so you can see the hoses going to and from the hot water heater. If it's stapled on..I think it is...remove the staples and and plan to re-attach it with small screws. The staples suck anyway.
2) Have your helper move the slide a bit while you observe and find out what's kinking the hose.
3) Take steps to rectify the situation.
IF, AND ONLY IF, YOU THINK THE KINK IS IN THE AREA WHERE THE PUMP IS....
4) Disconnect your battery and shore power.
5) Remove the power center so you can see plumbing in that cabinet. Don't be alarmed...it's a rat's nest in there, but don't worry about it.
6) Figure out why the hose is blocked when you fully extend the slide, and fix it as above.

If your hose is being kinked when the slide is fully extended, but the kink is relieved when you push in the slide, it's possible that one or both hoses are a bit too short. Worst case scenario, you buy a bit more hose at the local hardware store and a couple of "barbed" connectors and hose clamps, and you lengthen the hose. That's a pretty extreme possibility.

Your photo does NOT show PEX, but if the hoses are PEX, get PEX hose (color coding is not important) and Shark Bite Connectors for PEX.

More likely, the hose is getting caught in the slide mechanism or similar, and a zip tie (note the hole for a screw) could attach the hoses to the underside of the floor in the slide and keep them out of harm's way.

All links are illustrations, not recommendations. Any hardware store can supply what you need.

You're lucky to catch this early, before chafing causes a leak in the hose.

As for bringing it to the dealer...fugedaboud it unless you don't want to go camping for a long time. Waiting 2 months while they fix such a simple problem will cost you a big chunk of camping season.

P.S. Tip on assembling the hose (except PEX). Get REALLY HOT WATER from your house kitchen tap...or even heat up water on the stove...not boiling but very hot. Dip the ends of the hose into which you want to insert the barbed connector. That will soften the hose and make it much easier to slide onto the barb. Don't forget to slide your hose clamps onto the hose before inserting the barb connector. Worm gear hose clamps will do a great job.

NEXT: Use electrician's tape over the hose clamps so they don't hook on things as you open and close the slide.