Pop up battery charging

CTWebb · 10-09-2019, 07:08 AM

Hi all,
We have a 2009 Rockwood Freedom 1970 , Will the battery charge when plugged into shore power or the tow vehicle?
Thanks

Chuck_S · 10-09-2019, 07:22 AM

Shorepower: Yes.

Tow vehicle: Yes (technically) but No (actually).

Any battery disconnect switch must be On to charge the battery.

Two issues with the tow vehicle. (1) Trailer battery charge line may not be active. Often requires a fuse or relay to be added to the vehicle and (2) even if active the tow vehicle's voltage regulator limits voltage to that necessary to recharge the starting battery. Will maintain the battery, and allow use of the 12v power setting on the little refrigerator.

Battery changes based on voltage differential and it's so very low via the tow vehicle that you'll have to drive for days to get the battery charged.

-- Chuck

MohicanJeff · 10-09-2019, 10:15 AM

If you have a DC volt meter check voltage at the two battery terminals then hook up to the vehicle, start it up and check if voltage went up at the battery terminals. When plugging into shore power you will see a increase in voltage (maybe 1-1.5 volts). This way you know for sure.

CTWebb · 10-09-2019, 12:49 PM

thanks guys

artwolf · 01-01-2020, 10:15 PM

I'd like to continue on this thread. I have a 1997 Rockwood Premier 1904, no manual or anything (anybody?). I haven't been able to completely figure out the electrical system. My issue is with charging. On shore power, the 12V system in the trailer all works, but the battery doesn't charge. I disconnected the battery, and it is zero volts at the connectors. I need help understanding the converter. How do I find out the make and model. I haven't found a number on it anywhere, but I also haven't tried to take it apart or anything. I do know that 110V enters the box on the inside top panel, because that is where the shore power cord enters and I tied into it to put the amp donut and pull power for an AC volt meter. Also, I haven't found any fuses or breakers, except one right on the battery.
Any help or ideas?

Chuck_S · 01-01-2020, 10:55 PM

Insure the battery terminals are insulated from themselves and the trailer frame. Your converter is putting out 12v or your lights wouldn't work. Are you getting 12v at those battery terminals? Check the pair of battery protection fuses in the converter. Typically 20 amps each and right in the middle of the panel.

-- Chuck

artwolf · 01-02-2020, 10:28 AM

Thanks. No voltage to the batt lines when disconnected from the battery, while on Shore Power. Raining now, so it will be a few days before I can open it up and check the fuses. Did some more online searching. Is it reasonable to assume I have a WFCO 8712 converter in this popup? I didn't even know the front cover opens, so I will look harder at it when I can open her up.

Chuck_S · 01-02-2020, 12:56 PM

That power center is pretty common -- and reliable. Door just swings down.

With no power at the battery terminals there's a fuse or other break between those points. Most common in my experience is the battery protection fuses in the power panel which will blow if the battery is connected backwards, a common error due to misunderstanding 12v "house" wiring codes vs 12v "vehicle" codes.

While the battery is out is a good time to verify that wiring. A sticker on the trailer tongue usually lists what color goes where. Find the wire that's grounded to the trailer frame and note the color. That's the Negative wire (regardless of color).

There is also normally a 12v protection circuit breaker in a metal box under the front trailer. This usually just protects the the vehicle battery charge circuit but will also disconnect the battery.

Here's the power panel you mentioned. (The converter is buried inside it.) Pretty simple and only a few circuits.

-- Chuck

fkiehner · 01-04-2020, 02:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck_S

That power center is pretty common -- and reliable. Door just swings down.

With no power at the battery terminals there's a fuse or other break between those points. Most common in my experience is the battery protection fuses in the power panel which will blow if the battery is connected backwards, a common error due to misunderstanding 12v "house" wiring codes vs 12v "vehicle" codes.

While the battery is out is a good time to verify that wiring. A sticker on the trailer tongue usually lists what color goes where. Find the wire that's grounded to the trailer frame and note the color. That's the Negative wire (regardless of color).

There is also normally a 12v protection circuit breaker in a metal box under the front trailer. This usually just protects the the vehicle battery charge circuit but will also disconnect the battery.

Here's the power panel you mentioned. (The converter is buried inside it.) Pretty simple and only a few circuits.

-- Chuck

Push the top of the door in to unlatch it.

artwolf · 01-20-2020, 12:41 PM

Okay, new update. I crawled into my unopened popup and the panel doesn't look like this at all. It is ribbed brown plastic with the word, MagneTek in the lower right corner. A search on this found all kinds of older RV converters, but a) I have no idea what model this one is because I couldn't find any numbers on it; and b) I can't tell how to get the front cover off. No signs of a latch or screws, and when I pull on it slightly, it feels like the whole unit behind the wall shifts a little.
After googling around, I think it might be a 6700 model, but not sure. How can I get the front open and check fuses and breakers?
Thanks.
UPDATE: I just pried on the top of the faceplate and it opened. It is a 6612, Option 0 (whatever that means). There's not a lot of info out there I found, so if anyone can help, I'd appreciate it.
Both breakers were on, but I cycled them to make sure. Also pulled both fuses (7.5 and 15) and they both looked good. Didn't put an ohmmeter on them yet. That means I'll have to crawl back in there. I'm getting too old for all this crawling business. I need to invite a grandkid over.

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