I've visited this question several times, but, as others have suggested, it's not clear exactly what the problem is and what's working and not working.
I suggest you provide an itemized list of what functions and what doesn't. For example:
1. When connected to shore power, the 120 volt outlets (do/do-not) work.
2. The AC (does/does-not) work.
3. Itemize the 12 volt services that function or do not function when connected to shore power.
Also, I urge you to connect the camper to a
functioning 12 volt battery. That may be necessary for your converter to function properly. Many systems...even cars...will not function properly with the battery removed. You need a battery regardless, so go buy a new one. It's a vital component in your diagnostic testing. If you're concerned about ruining a new battery, ask your battery dealer to loan you a functioning "core" (old, nearly dead battery) along with your purchase of a new battery. Don't be afraid to leave a deposit for the core and get it back when you return the core. Any functioning 12 volt battery will do for the test as long as it works (isn't shorted or completely ruined).
Use a multi-meter to check continuity (a complete circuit) through major fuses, etc. There is usually a large fuse/breaker on the A-frame right near the battery...or on the battery post. Check it that it's not "open."
ALL breakers....ALL...must be first turned off then turned back on. Breakers must be turned off before they are reset. Simply pushing a tripped breaker back to the "on" position will NOT reset it.
Next, pull each fuse, then, using a flashlight from BEHIND the fuse, examine the fuse. It's easy to miss a blown fuse, but shining the light through the fuse from behind makes it much easier to detect a blown fuse. If in doubt, replace the fuse. You can buy a box of a "zillion" fuses of all amp ratings for virtually nothing. $8 bucks!
https://smile.amazon.com/120-Pieces-...use+assortment
I recently helped a camping neighbor diagnose a 12-volt problem by systematically going through everything from the battery back to the panel. It turns out that a 15 amp fuse was preventing EVERYTHING from working...the water pump, lights, and so on. He had "checked" all the fuses, and they were all "good," except they weren't.
Finally, it's perfectly reasonable for your converter/charger to have crapped out. These are not expensive, and they are reasonably easy to replace. While you're at it, buy one with a "smart," multi-stage charger.
You probably only need a 35 Amp converter, but here's an example.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F8MC440...a-305849326509
Linear Mode
