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05-14-2015, 08:01 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3
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Power winch
Just got a used 2011 823D. Having issues with the power winch. It will take the pop up down but won't put it up. Thought we had a dead battery so bought a new one. Winch will power when putting it down but no power when putting it up. Help! New to the whole power winch thing... It's a Carefree Colorado power winch.
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05-14-2015, 10:32 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 2,058
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Here's some troubleshooting ideas for the winch.
http://robertssales.com/articles_tut...ked_winch.html
However, to me it sounds like the upper limit switch may be broken or stuck closed.
What happens is, as the roof is raised, a plate moves toward the switch. When it the bolt head on the plate contacts and pushes in the switch button, the circuit is open and the roof stops.
If that button on the switch is stuck closed, it will not go up, or if the switch itself is bad, it won't go up.
I guess what I would do (and this is me), I would disconnect the upper limit switch and jump the wires and see if it starts to go up, but DO NOT LET IT GO ALL THE WAY UP! You can damage the gears if the plate moves over toward the switch and hits the little gear. But if the top starts to go up with the switch disconnected and wires jump, it is the switch.
__________________
Trailer: Lifted 228BH, heavy duty springs and Yokohama tires DELAMINATED ROOF
TV: 2016 GMC Sierra Z71 4x4 CC, SLT
Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes
Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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05-15-2015, 04:06 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: MA
Posts: 1,830
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I agree with the above. You should try to bypass the switch and jump the motor directly to see if it works. Once you know it works, then check out the limiters.
Vin.
__________________
2015 HW296
2006 HW256 (previous pup)
2013 Chevy Tahoe
Equalizer WDH 10000#
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05-17-2015, 09:37 AM
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#4
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T. Shawn
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 8
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Hi, not same issue, but a power winch issue. We just purchased a used 2008 Flagstaff pop up. When we went to open it at home the electric winch sparked, smoked and darn near caught on fire. I got the battery cables disconnected and we just cranked it up by hand (no fun). Very disappointing, but it is used. Worked fine when the seller showed us the unit, but anyway...I can see where a wire was bare and I think that touched some other wires. Wondering if I can just replace the wiring harness or will I be looking at replacing the entire unit? I did follow the link posted above and if parts prices are right, $240 for a new unit wouldn't be all that bad, but since I just got the camper I've already been spending lot's of money! I have model p30001. Thanks for any tips!
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05-17-2015, 09:48 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 2,058
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If it was me, I would replace the wires that might have caused the problem, and then try it, with the cover off, and a fire extinguisher in my other hand. if it works, great; if not, replace it with a manual system.
The manual system is not like using the electric winch manually, it is designed to be cranked by hand so it goes up fairly fast, while the electric unit is geared toward a motor and when used manually takes a while.
However, you can use a power drill, JUST MAKE SURE that the bolt is loose before cranking with a drill.
There's a thread on this site about someone who replaced the power with a manual; and honestly, if my power unit ever fails, I will replace with a manual unit.
Too many problems with the power winch, and too much maintenance.
__________________
Trailer: Lifted 228BH, heavy duty springs and Yokohama tires DELAMINATED ROOF
TV: 2016 GMC Sierra Z71 4x4 CC, SLT
Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes
Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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05-19-2015, 11:42 AM
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#6
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T. Shawn
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Ohio
Posts: 8
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I checked it out and the wires are burnt on both sides of the high/low limiter. Local dealer advises that cannot be replaced, so I'll probably replace with manual crank for $160. I'm thinking about running new wires and bypassing the high/low limiter, but not sure what would happen, besides running the risk of lifting too high.
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05-19-2015, 01:14 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Idaho
Posts: 2,058
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Unless you have a unit different than mine, there are two limit switches, one low, one high.
Per the electrical schematic I have for the winch wiring, I see NO reason why the wires cannot be replaced with the same gauge wiring.
On the back of the control switch there are six terminals.
From the switch terminals:
F to to the Upper limit switch
A wire from A is spliced into the other upper limit switch wire to the motor.
D to the lower limit switch
C wire from C is spliced into the other upper limit switch wire to the motor.
Really looks very simple....
This wiring schematic is in the Powerwinch Owner's manual that came with my trailer and I have a PDF copy. So, if you don't have one, and want one, PM me your email address and I'll email a copy to you.
BUT WHATEVER YOU DO....DO NOT BYPASS EITHER SWITCH. YOU CAN CAUSE SOME SERIOUS DAMAGE TO THE SYSTEM. NOT SURE WHAT, BUT HAVE BEEN TOLD THE UNIT SHOULD NEVER BE LIFTED HIGHER THAN THE INDICATOR WIRE (OUTSIDE FRONT CORNER) INDICATES BY BEING TAUGHT.
__________________
Trailer: Lifted 228BH, heavy duty springs and Yokohama tires DELAMINATED ROOF
TV: 2016 GMC Sierra Z71 4x4 CC, SLT
Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes
Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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