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Old 05-04-2017, 07:55 PM   #1
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Raising roof

For Rockwood tent trailers, should the stabilizers be up or down when raising or lowering the roof? My previous Coleman stated they must be raised to avoid warping the frame. I assume that guidance applies to Rockwood too?
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Old 05-04-2017, 08:16 PM   #2
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I have not owned a rockwood popup but I had a camplite / Damon brand one, and I would rough level it via a level on the tongue and back bumper, put the roof up, then finish leveling it based on the floor inside.
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Old 05-04-2017, 09:50 PM   #3
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The simple answer is yes! Level and then lower your stabilizers. Don't use your stabilizers to level.
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Old 05-04-2017, 09:57 PM   #4
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Level is more important than stability when raising the roof but it should be stable so the cables and risers are not experiencing undo stress by moving side to side from the raising motion.
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:09 AM   #5
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I have always leveled, then lowered the stabilizers, then raised the roof. That's what the dealer said, and that is what is in my owner's manual.
(I have a Flagstaff and the Rockwood is identical except for colors.)

But I'm not sure if it mattes so long as the trailer is level cause I know a lot of people who lower the stabs after the roof is up.
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Old 05-05-2017, 07:55 AM   #6
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Pop-up camped for years with 3 different Starcraft units.
Level side to side with boards under tires, unhitch and level front to back.
Lowered jacks close to contacting ground. Why- I popped a wheelie once going inside with the jacks up all the way.
Raise the roof, extend wings and slide-out if you have em.
Then snug up on the "support jacks", remember their for supporting not lifting.
Reverse for take down.

With the jacks down in support or even lift mode, unnecessary stress and/or bind gets put on the lifting system, structure and can make it harder to lift.
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Old 05-12-2017, 09:04 PM   #7
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I have one of these for a single-axle trailer. Absolutely love it.
https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-44573...eling+block+rv

I also have one of these if I need more on the uphill side: https://smile.amazon.com/Bond-LH015-...s=small+shovel

I use the claw on a straight-claw hammer as a "pick" if I need to https://smile.amazon.com/Estwing-E3-...ht+claw+hammer, dig a shallow hole for the uphill tire, and pull the downhill tire onto the wedge. My wife watches the left-to-right bubble, and when we are close, she throws a wheel chock behind the tire on the wedge. Works great. And the hammer is handy for driving and pulling tent pegs and breaking the fingers of people who try to steal your beer.

All are correct that the "stabilizer" jacks are not for "leveling." Too chintzy. But they will fine-tune the arrangement above to get the bubbles dead center.
I, too, roughly level the trailer, drop the stabilizers "lightly," and raise the roof. Once the roof is up, I finish tweaking level then open the bed slides and, in my case, the dinette slide. BUT, raising the roof if you're not close to level is a bad idea. The roof lift can bind, and the whole roof will list to one side several inches. Clearly not a good idea.

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Old 05-13-2017, 07:03 AM   #8
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I have raised my roof many times when it has not been level from side-to-side, but level front-to-back and never had a problem with the raising or lowering of the roof. Just did it last week in my driveway.

And depending on where I camp, I have had the trailer settle down into sandy areas and become un-level while camping. If I am using the fridge, I will get it back close to level; if not, don't hassle with it and have never had a problem with the roof.

Also, if using the stabs to adjust the bubble for leveling, it sounds like you are leveling.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by f5moab View Post
<<SNIP>>
Also, if using the stabs to adjust the bubble for leveling, it sounds like you are leveling.
Indeed I am to a small degree. Much as you feel confident in the ability of your roof to be raised when out of level side-to-side, I'm confident that the force needed to raise one side of the tub and inch or two with the stabilizer jacks is not exceeding design parameters.

I have a RAM 1500 with a scissors jack of the same design, and it will readily raise a corner of the 6000 pound truck to change a tire. As with jacking a truck, jacking the camper a tiny bit is relying on the trailer suspension to do a lot of the lifting in those first couple inches. Raising one side of the trailer 6 to 8 inches would be a very different matter.

3 1/2 years in the field with mine and no issues with the stabilizers. And the same can be said for the Viking we had for 5 years prior to our current camper.
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Old 05-15-2017, 03:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmoore13 View Post
Indeed I am to a small degree. Much as you feel confident in the ability of your roof to be raised when out of level side-to-side, I'm confident that the force needed to raise one side of the tub and inch or two with the stabilizer jacks is not exceeding design parameters.

I have a RAM 1500 with a scissors jack of the same design, and it will readily raise a corner of the 6000 pound truck to change a tire. As with jacking a truck, jacking the camper a tiny bit is relying on the trailer suspension to do a lot of the lifting in those first couple inches. Raising one side of the trailer 6 to 8 inches would be a very different matter.

3 1/2 years in the field with mine and no issues with the stabilizers. And the same can be said for the Viking we had for 5 years prior to our current camper.
Not my trailer. But I would guess the problem is not how high, but the pressure on the frame and that would be about the same for one inch or 12 inches of lift. I also have scissor jacks for my trucks, never had to use them, did on my Hummers when changing tires; however the frame on a truck is a lot sturdier than the frame on the popup (as well as the rear axle) and most likely can take a heck of a lot more pressure per square inch.

I have about five years now raising and lower the roof, and many times not leveled side-to-side never had a problem. Now that has never been a 45 degree off center lift, but many times up to and possibly over a 5 percent off center lift.

I just don't think that flimsy frame on a popup can take the localized pressure from the small pad of the scissors jack. If it could, why not level with the jacks? Sure would make leveling a heck of a lot easier.

Even when changing the tires on the popup, I make sure to use about a six inch piece of wood to spread the pressure to a greater area of the popup frame.

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Spare TV: Two Alaskan Malamutes

Living somewhere in ID; previously lived in Moab UT; previous to that, don't ask!
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