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Old 03-29-2019, 12:18 AM   #1
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Re-routing Propane Gas Line

Hi,

I have a Rockwood Extreme 282TESP. There is only room for ONE battery because the propane gas line is routed directly in the area where you would put the 2nd battery box. has anyone ever re-routed their gas line, and what fittings did you use? Standard fittings at the hardware store don't work. I think they may be RV 1/2 fittings.

See attached photos.
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:33 AM   #2
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I've been looking into doing this on our T21TBHW too. I've found ready made extension hoses at Camping World, just haven't pulled the trigger yet.
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:08 AM   #3
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Take off that fitting and go to an LP gas supplier. They should have the correct 90 deg fitting to replace it as well as a longer hose if you need it.
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:37 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilHorse&buggy View Post
Standard fittings at the hardware store don't work. I think they may be RV 1/2 fittings.


When dealing with flare fittings and pipe, the size of the pipe and fittings is always measured by the outside diameter (OD) of the pipe, unlike all other pipe and fittings which are measured by the inside diameter (ID). This can get confusing for people not aware of this. So, where a standard copper 1/2” hard copper water pipe is referred to as 1/2”, the OD is actually 5/8”. When you are dealing with 1/2” soft copper and flare fittings, you need to use 1/2” OD tube, which has a nominal ID of 3/8”, and 1/2” flare fittings.

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Old 03-29-2019, 07:44 AM   #5
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It's also important to get the correct angle on the fitting end 37 vs 45.
Go to an LP supplier with your old fitting and they will fix you up.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:18 AM   #6
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That fitting is called a bulkhead union because it goes through the frame and is held in place by a jam nut and connects two lines together.

You could find a 90º bulkhead as mentioned or simply screw a 90º adapter onto your current fitting such as this one...



Here is a link to the one I posted a photo of (scroll down) but they are available elsewhere.
GasHosesAndRegulators.com
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:28 AM   #7
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If you look at the 2nd photo with the battery box in place - I don't think he has room for an adapter but needs to replace his bulkhead fitting.
OR maybe move the straight bulkhead fitting a little to one side so it points between those battery boxes?
It depends on what's behind the frame cross member. Is it hard piped or hose?
If it's hard piped I still vote for a 90 deg bulkhead fitting and be done with it.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:39 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by KyDan View Post
If you look at the 2nd photo with the battery box in place - I don't think he has room for an adapter but needs to replace his bulkhead fitting.
OR maybe move the straight bulkhead fitting a little to one side so it points between those battery boxes?
It depends on what's behind the frame cross member. Is it hard piped or hose?
If it's hard piped I still vote for a 90 deg bulkhead fitting and be done with it.
You may be right Dan.
If you look at photo # 4 it is hard plumbed copper on the back side.
They may be able to move it if there is enough wiggle room.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:47 AM   #9
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I didn't realize foto 4 was showing the back side until you said it.

ME- I have hole saws and other tools so I would probably move the fitting and save a trip looking for a replacement.
A 90 deg bulkhead fitting might be a little more rare and take a few phone calls to find one.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:45 AM   #10
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I had a similar issue with my high wall HW31STCH. Only, I decided moving to a single larger battery that was a true deep cycle would be better. So I ended up building a new battery tray on top of the A-frame out of aluminum angle iron. I still need to paint it, but I have more than twice the capacity of the old double set up with less than double the weight on my tongue.
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Old 03-29-2019, 12:44 PM   #11
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Thank you

Thanks to all that responded. Okay first I'll take off the fitting and go to a gas LP shop to try and get the fittings. I want to see if the elbow will work before I have to drill into the trailer and re-route. There is a METAL PIPE on the underside of the trailer leading to the nut that I photographed on the backside. I think hose leading from the tanks is long enough to run loosely over the battery box.

I'll try to get it done today or tomorrow so I can post photos. Thank you again.
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:02 PM   #12
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Copper-tubing or iron-pipe

Quote:
Originally Posted by LilHorse&buggy View Post
Thanks to all that responded. Okay first I'll take off the fitting and go to a gas LP shop to try and get the fittings. I want to see if the elbow will work before I have to drill into the trailer and re-route. There is a METAL PIPE on the underside of the trailer leading to the nut that I photographed on the backside. I think hose leading from the tanks is long enough to run loosely over the battery box.

I'll try to get it done today or tomorrow so I can post photos. Thank you again.
Is the pipe on the back side copper tubing or iron pipe? If it's soft copper tubing, you could remove the current bulkhead fitting, drill a new hole between the batteries, and gently bend the pipe to fit.

Larry
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:14 PM   #13
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Is the pipe on the back side copper tubing or iron pipe? If it's soft copper tubing, you could remove the current bulkhead fitting, drill a new hole between the batteries, and gently bend the pipe to fit.

Larry
Beat me to it Larry. Quick and easy.
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:22 PM   #14
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Forest River

Okay, so I also asked Forest River. The tech guy saw the photos and said he wanted to consult with the manufacturing side, so he is going to contact me Monday. He said he will talk to them about future ways to route the gas line because of the dual battery issue.
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:46 PM   #15
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When dealing with flare fittings and pipe, the size of the pipe and fittings is always measured by the outside diameter (OD) of the pipe, unlike all other pipe and fittings which are measured by the inside diameter (ID). This can get confusing for people not aware of this. So, where a standard copper 1/2” hard copper water pipe is referred to as 1/2”, the OD is actually 5/8”. When you are dealing with 1/2” soft copper and flare fittings, you need to use 1/2” OD tube, which has a nominal ID of 3/8”, and 1/2” flare fittings.

Bruce

Slight correction here. Plumbing sizes are "nominal" sizes, not ID. This accounts for different wall thickness while still maintaining the correct/consistent OD so fittings are all the same.


"tubing" is measured OD, and you're right, that is the flare fitting. So in plumbing 3/4" copper is actually 7/8" OD and in tubing/refrigeration that would be considered 7/8". It's a bit confusing when going back and forth. Propane is plumbed in tubing so be careful.
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Old 03-29-2019, 02:51 PM   #16
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And there's more...

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Originally Posted by nayther View Post
Slight correction here. Plumbing sizes are "nominal" sizes, not ID. This accounts for different wall thickness while still maintaining the correct/consistent OD so fittings are all the same.


"tubing" is measured OD, and you're right, that is the flare fitting. So in plumbing 3/4" copper is actually 7/8" OD and in tubing/refrigeration that would be considered 7/8". It's a bit confusing when going back and forth. Propane is plumbed in tubing so be careful.
And that's without getting into the complexities of wall thickness variants like the 3/4" L thinwall copper tubing I used on a low-pressure hot water heating system back in the late 1960s, instead of the more common 3/4" M. Must stand for Light and Medium, I guess.

Larry
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:01 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LilHorse&buggy View Post
Hi,

I have a Rockwood Extreme 282TESP. There is only room for ONE battery because the propane gas line is routed directly in the area where you would put the 2nd battery box. has anyone ever re-routed their gas line, and what fittings did you use? Standard fittings at the hardware store don't work. I think they may be RV 1/2 fittings.

See attached photos.
Tractor supply, Camping World or local RV repair shop will have everything you need and advice on re-routing propane line. Shouldn't be too difficult.
Good luck and safe travels
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Old 03-30-2019, 06:42 AM   #18
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Plumbing sizes are "nominal" sizes, not ID.
nayther,

I’m not saying you’re wrong, but I don’t understand what you are saying in the portion of your post I quoted above. Can you explain it for me, please?

When it comes to pipe and tubing sizes or plumbing, they are still the same as with any other use/trade. Tubing size is designated by OD and pipe is designated by ID. Both have nominal ID sizes depending on the wall thickness, type “M” being the thinnest, type “L” being thicker than “M” and type “K” being thicker than type “L”.

Hard copper pipe is used for natural gas and propane installations, as well as soft copper tube, but not as commonly as soft copper tube. The biggest difference when using hard pipe instead of soft tube is that all joints are silver soldered (or ProPressed). The minimum wall thickness of this pipe is type “L”. The advantage to using hard copper pipe with silver soldered joints instead of soft copper tube with flared joints is, the silver soldered joints of a hard copper pipe installation can be permanently concealed, where any flared joints must be readily accessible

All copper pipe sizes of types “K” and “L” can be obtained as soft (annealed) copper tube. If you were to use this soft copper tube for a gas installation, you would be silver soldering all joints, using ordinary copper water pipe fittings. You would not be using flare fittings until you reduce down to the standard copper tube sizes that will accept flare fittings, and where these fittings can be made readily accessible — usually at the connection point of whatever you are supplying gas to.

Bruce
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Old 03-30-2019, 07:41 AM   #19
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And that's without getting into the complexities of wall thickness variants like the 3/4" L thinwall copper tubing I used on a low-pressure hot water heating system back in the late 1960s, instead of the more common 3/4" M. Must stand for Light and Medium, I guess.

Larry
Has anyone suggested using flexible pex for gas application. I used it in the basement when we changed kitchen stove to gas from electric. We had Gas company check it when they came out to read meter before it was moved outside. All was ok and no leaks. Easy to use.
Good luck
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Old 03-30-2019, 04:23 PM   #20
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My choice for gas plumbing is Gastite, I have been using it for 19 years and it great stuff. Since it is stainless it eliminates the ash deposits from natural gas. For propane in things that move it is also great due to it’s flexibility. You could replace that bulkhead fitting with one that is FIPT on both sides then you have any option from there.
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