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Old 10-14-2017, 07:03 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by NorSnrub View Post
I was wondering if an extra leaf on rear might boost it up enough. I have a f150 4x4. I know it costs a lot less.
I have a 2016 F150 SC 4x4 short bed. I pull 8300 lbs camper. I added a Propride hitch and airbags.

Tows like a dream.....
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:16 AM   #22
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Reducing sag in tow vehicle

I installed airbags on my 2014 Pathfinder, and it leveled things out perfectly. It cost me around $90 and was an easy DYI, it took me about 2 hours to install and looks professional done. The below link are the airbags for a 2001 Toyota Sienna, they also were the same ones I installed on my Pathfinder.

https://www.truckspring.com/products...ear__4118.aspx
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:23 AM   #23
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I pulled an 87 Jayco...around 2800# if I remember correctly, with wife and 4 kids, using a buick station wagon, a dodge minivan, and a chrysler minivan. Nebraska to Colorado, NM, South Dakota, North Dakota...probably 10,000 miles over the years without a single incident. No WDH, no air bags (wished I'd had them) and no air shocks. I see your dilemma and which solution you seem to looking at. I'd opt for either airbags or air shocks. I think either one of those is going to give you the answer you're looking for. If you already see issues of the receiver dragging, then a WDH is not what you want, as it will only compound that problem. I think you already know where you want to go with this...so do it !
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Old 10-14-2017, 03:35 PM   #24
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This is the brake kit I installed a bit more than two years ago. Hyperbole aside, they are still in perfect condition (no cracks, rust, or anything) and they are powerful and creamy smooth.

If you're concerned about cracking, by all means install high performance blank rotors and matching pads and hardware. The goal is to have high performance brakes to go with a trailer (in this case one that likely has no brakes at all) and a heavily loaded TV.

My kit was a complete matched set, and I believe that makes a difference in performance and the quality of the installation.

Ratings on the Power-Stop kits are uniformly high...with most complaints focused on the supplier sending the wrong size or the buyer expecting miraculous changes in braking performance compared to stock. Nobody mentions cracking.

By the way, my 2002 bike has three original OEM cross-drilled rotors...two on the front and one on the back. No cracks either.

Brembo, one of the world's top brake manufacturers for high end sports cars and high performance sedans...both as OEM and after-market...,offers drilled, slotted, combined, and blank rotors. There are mountains of comments on forums, but there is very little evidence - other than these individual opinions and urban legends - to support genuine concern over using these rotors.

And just to be absolutely clear, GM has OEM AC/DELCO cross-drilled rotors.

Again, to each his own. Babock, I'm not sure why this has turned into such a personal crusade, but urban legend (including the blog you shared) isn't fact. There may be anecdotal evidence of incidences of some rotors cracking or failing...some dating back a decade or more. The few photos featured in evidence are used over and over again. Many of the opinions are repeated endlessly by a few track-day wannabes who are repeating stories of racers abusing their equipment.

If slotted and cross-"drilled" (many are cast in) rotors presented a danger commensurate with these claims, DOT wouldn't approve them, manufacturers wouldn't install them as OEM equipment, and they wouldn't be as popular as they are in the aftermarket.

BUT THEN AGAIN, THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH BLANK ROTORS. My issue is mostly that this turned into such a personal crusade...discouraging a good option and attempting to discredit a reasonable recommendation based on questionable sources.

I'm done...and fed up. So you get the last word.

To the OP, I am sorry this turned your thread into a fracas over nothing, and I now question whether this forum is worth the time and effort.
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previously 2014 Forest River/Rockwood HW 277
2006 Ram 1500 4WD Crew with Firestone Airbags
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Old 10-14-2017, 05:49 PM   #25
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LOL...how has it gone into a personal crusade?

Just like the water tank thread where someone else hurt your feelings when someone disagreed with you and you go and write a novel.

I have a Harley that has drilled rotors. Not only drilled they are stainless drilled which is even worse. Sometimes, things are done for show like my Harley and your wannabe Harley.

https://www.google.com/search?safe=o....0.yFoc-gsZ2Lw

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/brake-...-st-1688020147

Most NASCAR cars do not use them either.
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Old 10-15-2017, 07:00 PM   #26
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Rear sag to tow vehicle

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I measured my tongue weight and it is 240 lbs. I have no sway or braking issues with my current set-up. I think I will go with the air bag set-up as the rear springs need just a little help.

THX
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Old 11-06-2017, 02:33 PM   #27
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One more thing I'd like to mention that I keep forgetting.

I think I mentioned before we went on a 4500 mile road trip. Not towing, but with 5 people, lots of luggage, and a wheel chair carrier on the back. Drug the hitch several times. And we just about lost the carrier going down the highway.

I was using a standard bent hitch pin and bobby pin keeper (like the one shown) to hold the stinger in the receiver. One of the times we scrapped it must have hit the bobby pin keeper and popped it out. When I next stopped and inspected, the hitch pin was about 1/3 of the way out.

I replaced the hitch pin with a locking one that is inline, and has no possibility of dragging. Highly recommended.
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Family of six, camping in a Grey Wolf 26DBH LTD pushing a 2010 Armada via 10k/1k HaulMaster WDH stopped by a Prodigy P2 brake controller

Tug: 2010 2wd Nissan Armada Titanium with tow package.
Specs: Max Trailer Weight 9,100, Tongue Load: 910, GCWR: 15,100, GVWR: 7,150, Payload: 1,592
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Old 11-07-2017, 07:30 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by mcart5 View Post
Thanks everyone for your suggestions. I measured my tongue weight and it is 240 lbs. I have no sway or braking issues with my current set-up. I think I will go with the air bag set-up as the rear springs need just a little help.
I tow the small Forest River A-frame with a Hyundai Entourage minivan. My trailer, loaded for a trip, comes in around 2750 lbs, and an actual tongue weight close to 400lbs. It towed like crap when I test drove it at the dealer with lots of porpoising of both camper and rear end of minivan.

I went back in, ready to unwind the deal. The dealer suggested an Equalizer E2 600/6000 WDH, that he would supply and install for $320. I love the Equalizer and would never tow with a soft suspension rear end without the WDH again. In addition to the ride being close enough to stock when towing that my wife is happy to drive for several hours a day, we don't bottom out like my Explorer/PUP combination used to do on a regular basis. And when I disconnect, the minivan is back to stock.

The WDH does add about 4 minutes to raise the tongue and put on/remove the bars to my setup/take-down time (about 10+4 min in an A-frame). And the bars groan while turning at slow speeds. On a single night stay, if the site is reasonably level I just put down the tongue jack to stabilize us for the night, and leave the minivan hitched up, WDH and all. The minivan tail gate will open hitched up and setup.

My preference is for the WDH in lieu of airbags, but others prefer the airbags. I used airbags on a Ford LTD station wagon towing a largish sailboat (because of surge brakes a WDH was impractical).

Fred W
2014 Rockwood A122 A-frame
2008 Hyundai Entourage minivan
camping Colorado and adjacent states one weekend at a time
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Old 11-10-2017, 11:43 AM   #29
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I tow my HW 276 with my Ď13 4x4 Nissan Frontier
It was vastly underwhelming in the spring department so I added a leaf and we are good now
Also added a power lift to the tongue so easy to level now
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Old 11-10-2017, 12:10 PM   #30
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The answer is simple, straight forward and not subject to interpretation. The only 100% reason for sag is an improper set up. It was NOT done correct!

I was fortunate to have contacted one of the handful of professionals (maybe 5 out of 100), that I encountered when I first purchased a TT then traded for an RV last year. He measured my bumper to ground distance and after installation and setup of the proper WDH, my bumper was the EXACT same distance off the ground. Even as I loaded or unloaded my TT, the bumper has not moved more than 1/8" from the original unloaded, unconnected distance!

Again, answer is simple - a Great WDH with proper set up!

If you want my hardly used (3 short trips) original WDH, send me a PM.
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Old 11-10-2017, 02:52 PM   #31
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The answer is simple, straight forward and not subject to interpretation. The only 100% reason for sag is an improper set up. It was NOT done correct! //snip//.
Opinionated much?

Like I said earlier, I'm a fan of the WDH, but for a 2000# trailer pulled by a minivan it may not be the right solution.

Oh, and the hitch you're offering up has the following disclaimer:

Quote:
*This product should not be used for any trailer under 4,000 lbs gross weigh
__________________
Family of six, camping in a Grey Wolf 26DBH LTD pushing a 2010 Armada via 10k/1k HaulMaster WDH stopped by a Prodigy P2 brake controller

Tug: 2010 2wd Nissan Armada Titanium with tow package.
Specs: Max Trailer Weight 9,100, Tongue Load: 910, GCWR: 15,100, GVWR: 7,150, Payload: 1,592
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Old 11-10-2017, 03:16 PM   #32
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Opinionated much?

Like I said earlier, I'm a fan of the WDH, but for a 2000# trailer pulled by a minivan it may not be the right solution.

Oh, and the hitch you're offering up has the following disclaimer:
Well said.
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