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Old 06-29-2010, 10:34 PM   #1
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Rockwood electrical problem

Gang,

We have a 2002 Rockwood and the 110V circuits work great but I just added a battery to it and when I connected the battery (without the 110V connected) and the main 20A fuse popped.

The manual mentioned that I have to move a switch on the Centurion CS3000XLpower converter but when I flip the cover down, there is no such switch, just two 110V breakers and four ATO fuses.


Am I missing something?


(Before you ask, the black ground wire went to negative lead and the white went to the positive.)

BTW, when connected to 110V all the outlets and 12V lights work just fine.

Thanks in advance for the help!
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Old 06-29-2010, 11:19 PM   #2
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You hooked the battery up backwards. Black is positive, whit is ground, just like house wiring. They wire the dc with AC house wiring color code.
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Old 06-30-2010, 05:41 AM   #3
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Thanks Windrider.

I'll check that out tonight and switch the ring terminals on the trailer wires.

Bill
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Old 06-30-2010, 10:01 AM   #4
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RV-Ninner,

Make sure you inspect your wires if they were indeed hooked up backwards. I did that once on my PUP. The white was then connected between the positive battery terminal and the frame, and there was significant charring of the wire at the frame connection. Also, I am not sure that they are connected, but my battery didn't last long after that.
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Old 06-30-2010, 08:24 PM   #5
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Thanks everyone.

No damaged wire as the fuse popped immediately, thank goodness!

The ring terminals were miss-marked. I clipped the red ring terminal for the negative and crimped on the proper size and used some red liquid tape to paint the positive terminal.

One remaining question; with the battery connected and all the lights off, there is still power to the carbon monoxide sensor. If I leave the camper setup for a day, this will drain the battery unnecessarily.

Short of flipping the sink/stove over, what do the rest of you do?
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Old 06-30-2010, 09:18 PM   #6
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A day hooked up shouldn't be a problem. I dry camped in my popup for 5 days @ a time & no recharges & never had any battery rundown issues. Mind you I was just using lights in the evening & the water pump.
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Old 06-30-2010, 11:38 PM   #7
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You can install a battery disconnect switch. I thought newer trailers all had them, but then I haven't been looking lately. Should be available at your camping supply store.
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Old 07-01-2010, 08:34 AM   #8
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For safety, the CO detector is always powered.

Either disconnect the battery, when storing the trailer, or install a battery disconnect switch.
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Old 07-01-2010, 09:56 AM   #9
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Lightbulb

Quote:
Originally Posted by MightyMike View Post
You can install a battery disconnect switch. I thought newer trailers all had them, but then I haven't been looking lately. Should be available at your camping supply store.
I'm in the process of adding a 2nd battery & a disconnect switch (rather than get the wrench out to do it). This is the switch I used:

701 - Master Battery Switch

I got it @ a local marine supply store.
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Old 07-05-2010, 12:48 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by revrnd View Post
I'm in the process of adding a 2nd battery & a disconnect switch (rather than get the wrench out to do it). This is the switch I used:

701 - Master Battery Switch

I got it @ a local marine supply store.


Here is the battery switch online for $24.99 and free shipping.
http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/cart/cart.cgi

How much did you pay locally?
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Old 07-05-2010, 01:34 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post
Here is the battery switch online for $24.99 and free shipping.
http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/cart/cart.cgi

How much did you pay locally?
Around 30 bucks CDN + my gas to drive about 10 miles.
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Old 07-11-2010, 12:30 AM   #12
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I see in the CW website they sell 2 Marinco switches that look identical to the 1 I bought. The specs are the same, but the 2 switches have different PNs. 26 bucks US.
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