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Old 11-24-2021, 11:57 AM   #1
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Side roof repair hw27ks

Hello everyone. I just bought a hw27ks with water damage on the roof sides. I plan to replace them myself possibly with aluminum. Does anyone have a reference or steps, maybe things for watching out for. I will update thread with progress.I also be changing the corner caps and sealing them.
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Old 11-24-2021, 12:17 PM   #2
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Congratulations on your new purchase. I have the same model and love it. I have seen some roof/sidewall rebuild videos on YouTube. Good luck with the repairs and try to post some pictures and progression along the way.
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Old 11-24-2021, 04:29 PM   #3
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I just did that on a sidewall for my 228D but did not make a vid. You can order the factory parts for probably $150 and another $250 or more to ship given the length is longer than mine. Forest River won't quote shipping.

The steps....
remove anything on the inside of the sidewall. Curtains velcro'd at the top, screws holding the plastic strip with that secures the top of the tent to the sidewall. Mine had some above were the curtain attaches and under that part as well so had to get at them from the outside while lowered most of the way. Wiring for AC etc... Basically remove anything on the inside including the angled pieces on the corners that attach the inside corner to the inside of the front and rear panels.

Remove the thin strip that is on the top metal angle piece at the corner of the roof and sidewall. If you don't know what I mean its on the side of the metal angle piece and is black, press on the area you will see it moves. It seemed to shrink after I removed it so keep it stretched. Its just a trim cover for all the screws holding that corner piece on. Take those screws out. Using a plastic tool gently work your way down the underside of the trim piece between the roof and the trim. There is a dicor like sealant there to release. BEWARE!! The roof is VERY thin so go slow, and force nothing! Gently work your way from one end to the other. Do the same on the sides but they will release easier.

With that trim off you can get the corner caps off (buy new ones they are less than $5 each).

At this point you will have to support the roof so you can remove the sidewalls since they hold it up. I bought some 5 gallon pales with lids and placed them at the corners of the roof without the mattress as it will crush the heck out of it. Don't support it from the front/rear ends of the roof walls. There is nothing of substance under the rounded part of the roof so nothing to support it once the sidewall is off.

With the roof supported on the side you are removing lower the roof by about an inch. This will keep the side panel from pushing upwards when you fully release it. You can use a hammer and bang from the inside out of the sidewall to loosen the stapes that hold the side panel to the roof solid wood piece and sidewall ply. Once the staples were loose I used flat head screwdriver to pry it out enough to pull with vice grip (clamping) pliers.

Once the staples are all out you should be able to remove the 2 screws per lifter and then completely free the side panel. That is a 2 person job to be sure! If yours are as bad as mine was it turned in to a noodle so be careful with removal.

The gasket will slide out of the metal trim at the bottom of the sidewall, there is usually a screw on each end of the gasket right in to the sidepanel to keep it from sliding around so take those out before sliding it out.

Under that gasket are screws holding the metal trim on. Unscrew those and and work the trim piece off.

Clean up all the sealant from the trim to reinstall. I used this to seal the top/edge trim piece back on.

https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834..._df_B001FCB4JS

Apply one strip on the top and one strip on the edge and press the corners together.

I used stainless screws to reinstall the new side panel to the board behind it along the roof ledge and to the front/back plywood.

I was able to strip off the inside white plastic layer from the old sideboard to use as a template for holes etc... on the new one. You might be able to do that for shape too?

When putting the top corner piece back on once the new panel was installed I used a clamp to pull it down against the roof and press it in to the dicor to help seal it back up before installed a screw. A Long clamp with a block of wood under the bottom metal trim piece to make it square and easier for the clamp to grab.

I hope this helps.
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Old 11-24-2021, 10:56 PM   #4
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Wow. Thanks for the detailed instructions. Very appreciated.
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Old 11-25-2021, 12:47 AM   #5
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I should have added this link, you can see some of the work ahead:

https://www.popupportal.com/threads/...ywhere.134925/
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Old 11-25-2021, 08:00 AM   #6
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That video is great with a lot of detail. One thing I notice in most videos is that the outer panel has to bolts fwd and aft that bolt straight into the lifters. On my camper the skin is smooth from one side to the other with no bolts. And the skin is rather flimsy on its own (like a whiteboard material you write on). I am thinking that this side panel is more cosmetic and the lifters don't directly attach to this outer panel.
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Old 11-25-2021, 08:09 AM   #7
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Here are some pics for referenceClick image for larger version

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Old 11-25-2021, 10:24 AM   #8
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My new to me HW276 has one screw under the corner cap (I think) and one that is not. You should be able to see where the screws are by raising it a foot or so and looking from the backside.

I have 2 clearly visible from the backside on mine. I wondered if the one that is not visible from the outside is just built in?

When I ordered the side panel from forest river I was told I would have to transfer "all hardware" from the old one to the new.

Nice trailer, hope it was a good deal for the work you have to do!

So the reason the side panels have to be replaced is they got wet. I assume even the HW used chipboard for the sides like my old 228D. Water infiltrated from the roof seal failing, soaked in to the wood and caused that warping. Yours looks worse than mine so for sure leave the bottom trim on until you get it off to help it keep shape and be easier to handle.

Even after you put the Dicor on, seal with silicone at the top edges!

Use this, bathtub caulk is a huge NO
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Editting... there is so much rust on the side latch in the photo... you sure it wasnt flooded?
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Old 11-25-2021, 02:34 PM   #9
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No, the interior is fine. They told it was out in the element.
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Old 11-26-2021, 07:45 PM   #10
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Removed the sidewall today. The rotted wood really made the job easier. Did the whole thing in about an hour or less. I kept the old skin to make a template.Click image for larger version

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Old 11-26-2021, 07:48 PM   #11
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Wow, I'm curious what age is your Flagstaff? I have a 2018, when I bought it in 2020, it had just started to show evidence of a leak in the same area as yours, as it had been stored outside. I have sealed it well & I store it inside so I'm hoping I've caught it early, do you know exactly where it failed?
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Old 11-26-2021, 07:57 PM   #12
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So it is a 2015. I just bought it this weekend from a hunting guide in GA. The popup was left open a year outside, plugged in and being used. There were some attempts to seal some spots with tar, etc near the corners. . The culprit seems to be about a quarter inch gap between the corner caps and the roof. It seems pretty obvious the the factory caulking separated from the corner caps and let water in. I ordered a new set of corner caps as it is possible that these may have warped or bent by being exposed to sun, cold, rain, etc. Once I fix it I will store it under a roof and stay on top of the maintenance. I'm pretty confident it will be good.

As the far as the inside goes, it is in good shape and there is no wood damage or soft soft spots on the floor. The biggest issue outside of the obvious, is a couple water stains in the canvas that I plan to tackle next. It doesnt seem like the water leak ever flooded the interior.
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Old 11-26-2021, 11:21 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgarcia0574 View Post
Removed the sidewall today. The rotted wood really made the job easier. Did the whole thing in about an hour or less. I kept the old skin to make a template.Attachment 266126
pgarcia0574, that middle of the roof looks like its sagging a lot in your photo. The middle should normally be a few inches higher than the ends. That roof is 2 feet longer than and its supports are closer to the ends than on a 228D which are actually a good foot inboard from the ends.

I REALLY think you should consider supporting the middle so no damage to the plastic occurs.
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Old 11-27-2021, 02:31 PM   #14
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Test fit with 3/4 inch marine plywood. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-27-2021, 03:32 PM   #15
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Very nice. What are you going to coat the outer skin with?
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Old 11-27-2021, 03:49 PM   #16
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Still deciding lol.
I want to cover the wood in marine epoxy and skin the outside with either a vinyl or aluminum skin.i want it to look decent, but not trying to completely hide that it was repaired.
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:17 PM   #17
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Quick question since I can't currently open the camper. Does anyone happen to know what the distance is from the interior ceiling to the top of the lifter that attaches to the side roof?
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:30 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgarcia0574 View Post
Quick question since I can't currently open the camper. Does anyone happen to know what the distance is from the interior ceiling to the top of the lifter that attaches to the side roof?
Surely there are holes on your template piece you used? I can measure my HW276 when I get home if not.
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:42 PM   #19
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The template that I used is the outer skin which doesn't have holes. The inner skin which had the holes ripped apart and discarded, unfortunately. I asked the same question to Forest River support. Just wondering if anyone had their pup already open.
Thanks a lot.
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Old 11-29-2021, 01:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgarcia0574 View Post
The template that I used is the outer skin which doesn't have holes. The inner skin which had the holes ripped apart and discarded, unfortunately. I asked the same question to Forest River support. Just wondering if anyone had their pup already open.
Thanks a lot.
So how is the hardware attaching the lifter post secured to the side panel?

I can measure mine but it may not be perfect for you since mine went through the sidewall.

The good news is there is adjustment on the winch motor for open/close travel. I think the most important thing is that you get all 4 even

If you are not familiar with the winch motor adjustments I recommend getting the manual downloaded. If its like mine the up adjustment is the bottom alan screw and the closed adjustment is the top one ?!
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