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Old 02-22-2019, 10:05 PM   #21
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Glad you found the problem and reported it to help others that may encounter the same.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:18 PM   #22
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I finally got to troubleshooting my issue and am following Ringbill's advice and replacing the regulator on the stove.

Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the old one. Any suggestions or methods on how to do this? I'm having some difficulty.

I've attached a photo.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:36 PM   #23
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Like this

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Originally Posted by Spaceace View Post
I finally got to troubleshooting my issue and am following Ringbill's advice and replacing the regulator on the stove.

Now I'm trying to figure out how to remove the old one. Any suggestions or methods on how to do this? I'm having some difficulty.

I've attached a photo.

Thanks for the help!
Like this:
  1. Undo the flare fitting. In the picture it's the brass six-sided item farthest to the left (Probably closest to the front of the range). It's the one on the "IN" side, but farthest from the regulator itself.
  2. Then unscrew the regulator itelf. Just put a wrench on the flats on either the "IN" side or the "OUT" side and turn it off.
  3. When you put on the new regulator, if it doesn't come with sealant, use Rector's No. 5 or yellow Teflon tape on the "OUT" side.
  4. You will probably have to transfer the female part of the flare fitting from the old regulator to the new one. Unscrew it from the old one and use Rector's No. 5 or yellow Teflon tape on the threads when screwing it into the new one. You do not need any sealant or tape on the flare nut joint. It is self-sealing.
  5. Mix a little dish detergent with some water. Turn on the gas. Brush some of the detergent/water onto each of the joints and look for bubbles.

Larry
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Old 06-23-2019, 06:16 AM   #24
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Thank you for the help!

I am having difficulty on loosening the flare fitting. Do you have any advice on loosening it? I assume it has regular threads - counterclockwise/left to loosen?

I also don't have many tools so can make a trip to harbor freight to get the proper wrench. What would you use to remove it? I'm not sure what size the flare is - any ideas? It's larger than the wrenchs in my basic set.

Thanks for the help!
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Old 06-23-2019, 06:50 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spaceace View Post
Thank you for the help!

I am having difficulty on loosening the flare fitting. Do you have any advice on loosening it? I assume it has regular threads - counterclockwise/left to loosen?

I also don't have many tools so can make a trip to harbor freight to get the proper wrench. What would you use to remove it? I'm not sure what size the flare is - any ideas? It's larger than the wrenchs in my basic set.

Thanks for the help!
ALWAYS use two wrenches. If you cant free-up the flare nut using wrenches, put some heat on just the nut, then try the wrenches again before the nut cools down too much. Dont worry you wont blow yourself up. Just make sure your torch/lighter flame is turned off before you crack that joint loose.

As far as the wrench size goes, I dont have a clue...sorry I have never used an open-end wrench on a flare nut in the four decades I have been plumbing I have always used Crescent wrenches and Channellocks. In your case, since the flare nut appears to be 3/8 (maybe 1/2, but doubtful) I would be using my Channellock 426 on the nut and my Channellock GL6 on the flare adapter that the nut is attached to. The nut will turn off counter-clockwise, just like any normal threaded fitting.

Bruce
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:21 AM   #26
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Flare nut

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Originally Posted by Spaceace View Post
Thank you for the help!

I am having difficulty on loosening the flare fitting. Do you have any advice on loosening it? I assume it has regular threads - counterclockwise/left to loosen?

I also don't have many tools so can make a trip to harbor freight to get the proper wrench. What would you use to remove it? I'm not sure what size the flare is - any ideas? It's larger than the wrenchs in my basic set.

Thanks for the help!
The flare nut is 13/16" (just tried a wrench on mine), but you could use an adjustable wrench. I always avoid pliers or pipe wrenches with teeth (stick with smooth-jaw tools) because the teeth marks look so amateurish.

The flare nut goes onto a flare-to-NPT adapter. You MUST hold the adapter while turning the flare nut, or you will twist the end off the tubing. The adapter is 5/8". (These are both bigger than Bruce's guess.)

If you use two fixed-sized wrenches instead of a pliers-type tool, you can position the wrenches so you simply squeeze them together. Then you're not putting any push-or-pull stress on the range parts at all. I always look for a setup like this if I can find one. In this case, a 13/16" wrench and a 5/8" wrench or adjustable smooth-jawed wrenches do the magic.

Once the flare not is removed, look at the new regulator. If it doesn't include the flare-to-NPT adapter, then you will have to transfer it. Use the 5/8" wrench on the adapter and a big adjustable wrench on the end of the regulator. Set the wrenches so you can squeeze them together to loosen the adapter.

Last of all, use that big adjustable wrench to turn the adapter off the range. If necessary, put another big wrench on the range tubing to prevent it from twisting.

As noted before, use sealant or tape on the two joints of the regulator. Use nothing on the flare nut, but get it tight because it's a metal-to-metal seal.

Larry
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:55 AM   #27
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Quote:
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The adapter is 5/8". (These are both bigger than Bruce's guess.)
Larry,

I think we are both talking about two different things.

I was referring to the tubing size. While the size across the flats of the nut, itself, or the adapter may not be 3/8, a 3/8 flare nut is what would be used if the tubing is 3/8OD. Spaceace is questioning the flare size which is why I wrote what I did, but he is also questioning the wrench size, which is why you wrote what you did. Unless I am wrong and you are saying the size of the copper tubing connected to the regulator is 5/8OD.

Bruce
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Old 06-23-2019, 09:01 AM   #28
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Agreed

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Larry,

I think we are both talking about two different things.

I was referring to the tubing size. While the size across the flats of the nut, itself, or the adapter may not be 3/8, a 3/8 flare nut is what would be used if the tubing is 3/8OD. Spaceace is questioning the flare size which is why I wrote what I did, but he is also questioning the wrench size, which is why you wrote what you did. Unless I am wrong and you are saying the size of the copper tubing connected to the regulator is 5/8OD.

Bruce
Bruce, I agree. My context was the OP's statement "I don't have a wrench big enough." So I gave him the wrench sizes. I didn't realize you were giving tubing sizes.

Larry
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Old 06-23-2019, 03:30 PM   #29
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ALWAYS use two wrenches. If you can’t free-up the flare nut using wrenches, put some heat on just the nut, then try the wrenches again before the nut cools down too much. Don’t worry — you won’t blow yourself up. Just make sure your torch/lighter flame is turned off before you crack that joint loose.

As far as the wrench size goes, I don’t have a clue...sorry — I have never used an open-end wrench on a flare nut in the four decades I have been plumbing — I have always used Crescent wrenches and Channellocks. In your case, since the flare nut appears to be 3/8” (maybe 1/2”, but doubtful) I would be using my Channellock 426 on the nut and my Channellock GL6 on the flare adapter that the nut is attached to. The nut will turn off counter-clockwise, just like any normal threaded fitting.

Bruce
X2, 2 adjustable wrenches should be sufficient and get the job done.
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Old 06-25-2019, 11:50 AM   #30
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Just wanted to send a quick thanks for everyone's help with my issue!

I was finally able to to remove the regulator and following Larry's steps, replace it. It was very hard to remove.

Unfortunately, this does not solve my issue.

I still have low flame on my Suburban stove, although it might be slightly better. Also, sometimes I can get both burners to light (before I replaced regulator on the stove, if I lit a second burner, the first would go outright away).

Here is what I have done to troubleshoot this issue:

1. Replaced propane regulator on camper
2. Replaced pigtail connection from propane tank to regulator on camper
3. Replaced regulator on stove

As someone mentioned in this tread, I am working my way back and thinking about the quick connect fitting on the stove and camper.

Does anyone have any other suggestions to try? Also thinking about taking the stove to a dealer to see if they have any way to test it?

This is a frustrating problem, but thankfully I have an old Coleman stove that works like a champ.
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Old 06-25-2019, 01:24 PM   #31
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This may be something you have already tried, but I thought I might as well mention it: turn off and disconnect your propane tanks. Wait about 30 seconds. Reconnect the tanks, then turn on the knobs on the tanks very, very slowly. See what happens.

Bruce
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Old 06-25-2019, 04:48 PM   #32
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Lots of advice

With the right fitting on the end of a hose you could take a 20# tank and a regulator into the coach and hook it directly to the range gas inlet. If it works OK there then look at the hose to the stove coming from the gas manifold as the next failed item. It would have to have a very serious pinch or internal collapse to cause a problem but with only 11" of water pressure it would not take too much to cause a problem.
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Old 06-25-2019, 05:57 PM   #33
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Since you are camping. I suggest, that you find another camper and with permission. Connect your stove to their connection. If it works, it the camper supply that is faulty. I not, it is your stove.

This will break down the troubleshooting.

Bob
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:44 PM   #34
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stove replacement Rockwood 1940

Use two wenches. One on the flare but and one on the mpt to SAE flare hex adapter next to it. I am to totally guessing here... 7/8 and 5/8-11/16 wrenches for the two(a couple of adjustable wrenches would prolly work(8 and 10) or 2 8s. Place the wrenches till you get a V shape and hands at to try to close the V with two hands squeezing together. It will fall apart it you do that with no knuckle or stove damage.

Great. I see you have it loose.
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:47 PM   #35
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You have some trash somewhere.
You can buy a digital nanometer for nothing on amazon and a few dollars worth of brass fittings from hardware store and check the gas pressure.
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Old 06-25-2019, 09:51 PM   #36
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I replaced a gas furnace in my daughters house cause the gas expert said no gas pressure issues here sir. I put a new furnace in...sill didnt work. I then bought a nanometer and checked myself... amazing. Gas problem. Removed fittings and valves till I found it.
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Old 06-26-2019, 04:06 AM   #37
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You have some trash somewhere.
You can buy a digital nanometer for nothing on amazon and a few dollars worth of brass fittings from hardware store and check the gas pressure.
A manometer will easily tell you what the pressure is, but if there is a restriction somewhere, the manometer will still show the same pressure as if there was not a restriction, and if you don’t understand the differences and relation of pressure to flow, using a manometer to just measure the pressure will get you nowhere. The only way a manometer will be useful here is if it is used to measure the water column drop. The larger the drop, the less flow there is. Pressure and flow are related, but they are two very different things.

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Old 06-26-2019, 07:00 AM   #38
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A manometer will easily tell you what the pressure is, but if there is a restriction somewhere, the manometer will still show the same pressure as if there was not a restriction, and if you dont understand the differences and relation of pressure to flow, using a manometer to just measure the pressure will get you nowhere. The only way a manometer will be useful here is if it is used to measure the water column drop. The larger the drop, the less flow there is. Pressure and flow are related, but they are two very different things.

Bruce


?? All true. One would install a tee/test port in the line to test...some/most gas valves have a test port somewhere.

I guess some stuff is not just a given.
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Old 06-26-2019, 07:02 AM   #39
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Just a thought here. Back years ago I had a stove that I could not light and like you, tried everything under the sun to correct the problem. I finally checked the burners and tubing and saw that each burner had debris in the tubing and blockage at the air vents on the tubing. Cleaned them out and stove worked like a champ. Not saying that is the problem, just a thought from past experiences. Good Luck.
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