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Old 11-29-2018, 06:42 AM   #1
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stove replacement Rockwood 1940

I have tried to get my two burner gas stove to work but cannot. I have gas operational. What replacement stove do you recommend? I do not necessarily need one that fits on the rail, I can use a table, but want one that simply connects to the gas line without any modification. I believe the factory supplied stove is a low pressure one. I blew out the lines in the stove thinking there is some blockage but there is none...used gas successfully to operate the refrigerator. Welcome any suggestions!
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:19 AM   #2
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Do you have gas at the quick connect of the hose?
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Old 11-29-2018, 07:46 AM   #3
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stove

I believe so! The gas line from the tank goes to a tee junction- one line goes to the refrigerator, which works! Should I disconnect the line to the stove and air blow it? I was assuming, since my gas tank is full and the fridge works, that the stove line would be ok. Thank you for pointing this out! In the past year the stove progressively got a weaker flame and then stopped working.
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Old 11-29-2018, 08:42 AM   #4
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Could be the safety valve inside the female of the quick connect.
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Old 11-29-2018, 09:37 AM   #5
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stove

The coupling appears to be ok- I will check this again. This past camping season I was glad to have my vintage pump-action Coleman stove but sure would be nice to use the existing system!
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:04 PM   #6
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Things to check

Most gas ports have not only a check valve in the female end but a valve next to the that fitting. The valve handle needs to be aligned with the hose. If there is no valve on the trailer end then stick something like a stick pen end (plastic end) into the little ball fitting to see if gas is present. Don't use anything that will scratch the little steel ball in the fitting. If gas is there you will hear and smell it. It should go without saying that one should not be smoking at this time!


Stoves almost never go bad - ovens do because they are more complicated with thermostats. pilot sensors, etc.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:06 PM   #7
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Please keep up posted on what you find out! I have a similar issue in my Rockwood 1640ltd.

I replaced the regulator and took apart the stove to clean. Mine lights but is very week flame and only one burner will light at a time. I also had to break out the old Coleman but hope to get the stove back up and running next season (mine is winterized for the year).

Good luck!
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Old 11-29-2018, 04:16 PM   #8
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Not quite on target, but for what it's worth.

I found that the orifice from the flame control valve on my RV grill was plugged. Your stove will have the same number of orifices as it does burners.

This is a tiny fitting on the output side of the control valve (the burner knob). It should come out and allow you to use your air compressor to blow air thru it to clean it. It should be brass. This orifice is "inside" the burner tube, right before the openings in the tube that admit air. You remove a screw or two that hold the burner in place, remove the burner and burner tube, and you'll have access to the orifice.
Mine was plugged with something like "pipe dope" or gasket material that came adrift over time and the gas flow tried to push the crud through the orifice.

Remove the orifice. With it removed, and under safe circumstances (no open flame, spark, lights switching, and plenty of ventilation) open the burner valve for a moment. LOTS of propane should flow thru. You should hear it as well as smell it. If so, the problem might be the orifices. If not, the problem is in the line somewhere between the "Tee" that splits off to the fridge and the stove connection...including the quick connect.

One more hunch. The fridge uses a VERY small amount of propane. If your regulator on the tank is failing, it may very well run the fridge but not put out enough flow to run the stove - especially if the fridge is already running. You might need a replacement regulator at your propane tanks.

If you change ANYTHING, be sure to conduct a soapy-water bubble-test on every fitting you touch. Where called for, be sure to use the proper Teflon tape for propane.

Replacement Quick Connect One failure might be the 1/4-turn ball valve that shuts off the quick-connect. If the handle comes adrift from the actual ball valve, it won't open (or close) the ball valve. Another is that the female quick connect could be contaminated, blocked or corroded from passing bad gas. Easy to replace.

Replacement propane regulator. Regulators do fail. If you suspect a bad regulator, it's not that expensive of a mistake to install a new one and discover it didn't fix the problem.

Generalized depiction of an orifice...not the ones in your stove. Just for illustration purposes. You should be able to peer through the orifice and see a clean, clear pinhole. If not, you can use a sewing needle to poke thru and air to finish the job. They are brass and should last forever.

Propane is not a perfectly clean product. It could be contaminated with water, other chemicals, and so on. Over the years, your brass fittings might fail for many reasons.
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Old 11-29-2018, 05:38 PM   #9
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One other thing

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringbill View Post
I have tried to get my two burner gas stove to work but cannot. I have gas operational. What replacement stove do you recommend? I do not necessarily need one that fits on the rail, I can use a table, but want one that simply connects to the gas line without any modification. I believe the factory supplied stove is a low pressure one. I blew out the lines in the stove thinking there is some blockage but there is none...used gas successfully to operate the refrigerator. Welcome any suggestions!
One other thing that hasn't been mentioned is the regulator within the range. That's in addition to the regulator that's by the propane tank. Must be fairly common; Amazon stocks them.

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Old 12-05-2018, 08:17 AM   #10
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stove

I first want to thank all who responded! I previously did switch out the regulator from the tank and still no function. I will check the secondary regulator, the orifices on the burner, the line, the tee valve and the other items you all mentioned and hopefully resolve this problem. I must say when it was working, it was a very efficient system, I used little gas on a number of camping trips. I do not have a gauge on the tank but when I went to refill it, it did not take much. Pretty cheap energy cost! The 3 way refrigerator works a lot better with gas than shore power.
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Old 01-31-2019, 08:04 AM   #11
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stove

jimmoore13, thanks again for the comprehensive troubleshooting info! I have not solved the flame out issue, but did eliminate both the regulator and the tee valve as faulty since I replaced both and tested the stove.
I will try and do all the things you suggested on the stove.
If I cannot fix that, can anyone direct me to a vendor of a suitable replacement stove? I have checked the internet with no luck- best would be a similar stove that I can hang on the rail but not necessary I can use a table. Just like Spaceace, I am happy I have a working Coleman stove as backup, but would prefer to have a working supplied stove.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:08 AM   #12
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Begin with the end in mind

This will take some work but work backwards from the stove on the gas situation. Most gas appliances have a flare fitting on the end of the line (normally a hose). With pressure on - tank valve opened, loosen the flare fitting going to the stove from the hose slightly and daub some soapy water on the connection. If it bubbles then you have gas at the stove OK. The fitting should be under the stove top that surrounds the burners.

You have a multi burner stove so it is very unlikely all the burner orifices are plugged. My bet is the regulator inside the stove. Most stoves have a small regulator next to the stove gas inlet that could be an issue and would stop all burners from working. This part should be able to be ordered and replaced.

If no gas is at the stove fitting then continue working towards the tank checking wherever you can loosen a fitting. Don't throw the stove away, it is going to cheaper than trying to replace it.

https://www.bing.com/images/search?v...jaxhist=0&vt=0

Here you can see the brass flare fitting, the regulator (the square part at the lower left of the photo) as well as the burner manifold and the brass orifices on the end of three burner valves. You will have something similar.
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:28 AM   #13
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Tank Connection

Have you checked the tank connection where the flexible gas hose connects
to the propane tank? It has a spring loaded ball valve in the connection of the
gas hose that will not open completely therefore reducing the gas pressure to your stove. I have had two of the hoses go bad. Especially in
cold weather. Try replacing the pigtail that connects to your propane tank.


Good Luck
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:48 AM   #14
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You can also soak the brass orfice in gasoline , (outside the camper ). Be careful using any type of needle, if you make the tiny hole bigger than its suppose to be , you might need to replace it
Let the orfice soak for a day or two
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Old 01-31-2019, 09:55 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringbill View Post
jimmoore13, thanks again for the comprehensive troubleshooting info! I have not solved the flame out issue, but did eliminate both the regulator and the tee valve as faulty since I replaced both and tested the stove.
I will try and do all the things you suggested on the stove.
If I cannot fix that, can anyone direct me to a vendor of a suitable replacement stove? I have checked the internet with no luck- best would be a similar stove that I can hang on the rail but not necessary I can use a table. Just like Spaceace, I am happy I have a working Coleman stove as backup, but would prefer to have a working supplied stove.
You keep mentioning the rail, I assume this is what the stove hangs on. Do you also have a rail on the outside of camper? I had a pop up that had a rail inside and out. If you have a rail outside there is probably a quik connection out there as well. If so check that hose and quik connection for leakage of gas. Might he leaking outside and your not smelling it. Good luck
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:28 AM   #16
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Quote:
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jimmoore13, <<SNIP>>
I will try and do all the things you suggested on the stove.
If I cannot fix that, can anyone direct me to a vendor of a suitable replacement stove? I have checked the internet with no luck- best would be a similar stove that I can hang on the rail but not necessary I can use a table. Just like Spaceace, I am happy I have a working Coleman stove as backup, but would prefer to have a working supplied stove.

A hunch. Do you have a regular old cooktop installed in a "carrier" cabinet? I had a Viking PUP that was very basic. The 2-burner cooktop could be used inside and outside. It was mounted in a plastic "cabinet" that stored under the dinette when traveling, moved to the counter near the sink when inside, and hung on the rail with a support leg for outside. The "cabinet" would be hard to find, but my hunch is that the Suburban or Atwood 2-burner cook top can be removed with a couple screws and replaced -- reusing the old cabinet.

I have an outdoor kitchen on my HW-277 PUP. Inside I have a 3 burner range and oven. But outside, I have a Suburban 2-burner cooktop like any other. It looks for all the world like the cook top from my old Viking...and like any basic cooktop in any camper sold years ago and still sold today.

I always go with the assumption that the RV manufacturer is going to go with "off the shelf" appliances. Anything "exotic" will be outrageously expensive, and one look at these things, and you know the manufacturer didn't choose exotic or expensive.
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:32 AM   #17
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P.S. With a replacement cooktop, be prepared to harvest your flexible gas hose and connector and even the knobs. Manufacturers will nickle and dime you on parts. So check to find out what's not included with an replacement.
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Old 01-31-2019, 10:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ringbill View Post
I believe so! The gas line from the tank goes to a tee junction- one line goes to the refrigerator, which works! Should I disconnect the line to the stove and air blow it? I was assuming, since my gas tank is full and the fridge works, that the stove line would be ok. Thank you for pointing this out! In the past year the stove progressively got a weaker flame and then stopped working.

I think your issue lies in a collapsed propane hose to the stove. Since all else works and you have tested/cleaned/blew out the tee & fittings, I believe the line from the tee to the stove has collapsed internally. I had this happen on a pigtail hose from my propane tank to the regulator once. I replaced the pigtail hose and all was well again. Try swapping out the hose from the tee to the stove before going the expense of a new stove.
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Old 02-21-2019, 08:36 AM   #19
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stove

Got if going! It was the regulator inside the stove- PN 161140 for the Suburban stove- called both a manifold and regulator. Cost was 33$, not too bad- only a couple of scrapes to my hand. I must say the quality and build of the suburban is so-so. the internal brass pipe to the regulator did not come aligned. I know the stove is designed to both sit inside the popup and hang outside on the rail but could be lighter and the screws and mounting system to the base could be better. I believe the price of a new stove is pretty steep. The flame, even on high, is not too robust, say compared to my dual fuel Coleman stove. I pack both on camping trips. I never use the suburban inside the popup.
Thanks again to all of you- this site is great and I hardly ever get yelled at- just kidding- you are all a testament to being great people who love the outdoors.
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Old 02-21-2019, 12:47 PM   #20
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Thanks for reporting back with your success! I will try to replace the part you mentioned (as I'm having similar problems). Unfortunately, my stove and camper is packed away for winter...so this will be one of my first spring projects!
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