Time to replace the Anode Rod

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by garyhopp

Another suggestion, I am sure they recommend not using tefflon tape on the threads, it insulates the connection at the tank, suggest plumbers thread seal.

You can use pipe tape, it works just fine. Been doing it since 2007.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by garyhopp

I am sure they recommend not using tefflon tape on the threads,

Actually Suburban "DOES" suggest using teflon tape, as it's written on the back of their anode rod packaging. The anode rod utilizes a tapered pipe thread. As long as you don't go way crazy with the teflon tape, the threads will cut thru the tape as it's tightened.


Suburban also has sent us a series of 5 instructional videos that we keep at this link:


http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...es-135977.html


The very first video (copied below) is about the anode rod and it's replacement...which will show the use of teflon tape.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CO3X...830fMCPJ3ptLTr

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by HappyCamperCanada

Aha. Its for a hot water heater tank. Thanks Google. Here's a pic of mine. Is there an anode rod in it?

Yes, you absolutely have a Suburban water heater, that is propane only (no electric heating element)...as per the arrow in the pic below, this is your anode rod. See the video I posted in a previous post above in removing/replacing.

[wmtire]

One more common question that gets asked when replacing anode rods, is should the anode rod be screwed all the way in. As explained above, the anode rod utilizes a tapered pipe thread, which will not screw ALL the way in. You just snug it...and you will still have exposed threads visible.


As you can tell from this pic of old anode rods, when you glance at the threads...you can see the undisturbed white teflon tape on the threads that are still exposed after tightening, closest to the head. This will give you an idea of just how much exposed threads you may see after snugging the anode rod in.

[sherman12]

If your hot water tank has a metal plug than you have an anode rod. If the drain plug is nylon than there is no anode.

On my Georgetown MH I changed my anode rod at the beginning of every season. For $10 on Amazon, $16 the local RV dealer, it kept the sacrificed grit to a minimum in my hot water tank which if I didn't do would eventually clog the water inlet to the toilet!

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by sherman12

If your hot water tank has a metal plug than you have an anode rod. If the drain plug is nylon than there is no anode.

On my Georgetown MH I changed my anode rod at the beginning of every season. For $10 on Amazon, $16 the local RV dealer, it kept the sacrificed grit to a minimum in my hot water tank which if I didn't do would eventually clog the water inlet to the toilet!

The rod deteriorates at a rate relative to the chemical composition of the water and the surface area of the rod (think large plates in batteries). Replacing the rod each year keeps the surface area at a maximum, and hence more deterioration. So I think you're actually maximizing the grit, not minimizing it.

BUT: That's good, because you want it to make grit - that means it's making grit instead of corroding your HW tank.

Grit = GOOD - Rod corroding, not tank.
No grit = BAD - Tank corroding, not rod

[Mark N]

"Time to replace the Anode Rod"
"Bought my 2018 HW296 in 2017 and Anode Rod already needs replacing...."

Not . Even. Close. Seriously. This would be like dumping a 3/4-full, ice-cold beer down the drain and opening a new one. Catch my drift?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Mark N

Not. Even. Close. Seriously. This would be like dumping a 3/4-full, ice-cold beer and opening a new one. Catch my drift?

What are you referring to?
Without quoting someone's post we have NO clue!

I assume you are referring to replacing a partially used anode with a new one but that is just an assumption.

[Mark N]

Originally Posted by 5picker

What are you referring to?
Without quoting someone's post we have NO clue!

I assume you are referring to replacing a partially used anode with a new one but that is just an assumption.

Oh shoot, sorry, I thought I told it to quote the OP. I'll see if I can edit to accomplish that.

[Mark N]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

You can use pipe tape, it works just fine. Been doing it since 2007.

Yeah, X2 on that. I've been doing it for decades now with about 6 or 7 trailers.

[harleyfltri]

Originally Posted by Cowboy6201

Bought my 2018 HW296 in 2017 and Anode Rod already needs replacing.
Thanks to my Next door neighbor owning Camping USA in E.Bridgewater Ma a Camping supply Store, she brought one home to me. It been replaced already took me less than 10 Mins.

When I checked the rod in the first trailer I bought it looked like a thin arc welding rod with the flux removed. I'm not recommending by any means waiting that long to replace it but the one in your picture is practically brand new by comparison.

[Bob414]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

You can use pipe tape, it works just fine. Been doing it since 2007.

In the military, anodes threads were lubed with a copper anti seize. You do not want to electrical isolate the anode, that would defeat the purpose of the anode.

Bob

[Mike91]

Originally Posted by Bob414

In the military, anodes threads were lubed with a copper anti seize. You do not want to electrical isolate the anode, that would defeat the purpose of the anode.

Bob

Being this is potable water, you don't want to use anti-seize as it's poisonous. I don't brush my teeth with ice cold water, I mix hot water with it. I surely don't want my kids having poison in the water they brush their teeth with.

Teflon tape is what the factory uses, and so do I.

I use teflon tape every day at work on fittings. It seals the fitting but the threads do cut through at points so they are not electrically isolated. I never measured with my ohm meter but this fellow did at this link.

[W5CI]

Originally Posted by sherman12

If your hot water tank has a metal plug than you have an anode rod. If the drain plug is nylon than there is no anode.

On my Georgetown MH I changed my anode rod at the beginning of every season. For $10 on Amazon, $16 the local RV dealer, it kept the sacrificed grit to a minimum in my hot water tank which if I didn't do would eventually clog the water inlet to the toilet!

how are you going to get grit from the HWH into the Toilet??

[SlowrideHD]

Originally Posted by Bob414

In the military, anodes threads were lubed with a copper anti seize. You do not want to electrical isolate the anode, that would defeat the purpose of the anode.

Bob

They were lubed to prevent corrosion so they could be easily changed during preventive maintenance. Anode threads always cut through enough Teflon tape to provide continuity. The tape (like pipe dope) only serves to fill the void between male and female threads and help to prevent corrosion of the entire sealing surface.

[Bob414]

Good catch, copper anti seize is NOT rated for potable water.

Are you using "Pink" Teflon tape? That is the only one rated for potable water.

Bob

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by Bob414

Good catch, copper anti seize is NOT rated for potable water.

Are you using "Pink" Teflon tape? That is the only one rated for potable water.

Bob

Bob, I've never heard that. I was always under the impression that the pink tape was thicker and used in applications with bigger threads.


Now I have to go look, but have never heard that.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by W5CI

how are you going to get grit from the HWH into the Toilet??

I'm guessing he drains his plumbing using his low point drains without FIRST isolating his WH. This pulls water and grit out of the WH via the cold water inlet connection and thus gets it into the cold water piping. The line to the toilet often Tee's off the cold water piping near the WH, so now the grit can get into the toilet valve.

You should always isolate your WH (put in winterize condition) BEFORE you drain the plumbing via the low point drains. That way you can't introduce the WH grit into the cold water piping.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by Bob414

Good catch, copper anti seize is NOT rated for potable water.

Are you using "Pink" Teflon tape? That is the only one rated for potable water.

Bob

Never used anything but white pipe tape.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Bob, I've never heard that. I was always under the impression that the pink tape was thicker and used in applications with bigger threads.


Now I have to go look, but have never heard that.

Doesn't say anything about "Potable" water. It's a Heavy duty tape that requires less wraps. White tape is used on water systems everyday.

TOMBO Premium Pink Plumbers Tape
is designed for sealing threaded joints in general water systems and water heating systems. It is certified by DIN-DVGW* for usage in Hot Water up to 125°C and <= 7 bar in accordance to DIN EN 751-3, Class GRp.

The high density of the TOMBO Premium Pink Plumbers Tape conforms and holds the thread readily when wrapped around the specific threaded joint, reducing the occurrence of loose threads.

When properly applied, TOMBO Premium Pink Plumbers Tape requires only 3 overlapping wraps to effect a leakproof joint**.

* DIN-DVGW registration no: NG-5143BR0385
** For poor quality or damaged threads that are hard to seal like parallel threads or threads on fittings subject to vibrations, more than 3 wraps maybe necessary.