hi, sorry my first post has to be a problem. I wanted to love our new to us rock wood 1460 LTD, it is a sweet little camper. first rain storm revealed big problems. the roof leaks...A LOT. water accumulated on top, it became concave and it begin raining, inside. We have it open, drying out with a support trying to restore the proper convex curve to the top. It is only a 2010 and is otherwise in impeccable condition. Why is such a well made, well appointed camper cursed with such a flawed top? We cannot afford a replacement, so we will try to brace and seal the top. any help would be so appreciated. thanks!
May not have been flawed.
Could have been poor roof maintenance by previous owner.
Owned two pop ups and proper roof maintenance and inspections are real important.
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Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
Good point. I'm sure it was. most of the seams had been "ignored" we live in a pretty dry climate and sun damage can be a problem. the rest of the camper seemed well cared for. I just hope we can fix it! I'd be so happy to find others who have.
here are a few. I don't know how evident it is from inside. now that it has dried out with a pole and a board supporting the roof, it looks almost normal...like it did when I first saw it and bought it.
Yes, I see the deflection. My thought is the previous owner applied to much weight on top of the unit creating the problem. A coating is not a fix for ponding water. Primarily good for UV protection to extend life of prior to any major issues. Unless this coating incorporates a polyester reinforcement scrim I would not waste your money. Also provide maintenance to any perimeter edges and seams. Wish I could give you a solid opinion for the reinforcement of the roof. I would contemplate installing a stick sheet metal in the interior from one end to the other. Making sure to of course seal up any fastener penetrations with a proper sealant. Urethane type not just a silicone. After that type of fix then the liquid applied resin would be a long term fix.
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2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BRDS Travel Trailer
2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 LTZ
could you explain what a stick sheet metal is? we were thinking of 3 aluminum supports made of 1.5" square tubing in the 3 low areas, then a elastomer coating on the roof.
could you explain what a stick sheet metal is? we were thinking of 3 aluminum supports made of 1.5" square tubing in the 3 low areas, then a elastomer coating on the roof.
You said it best.
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2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BRDS Travel Trailer
2018 Chevrolet Silverado 2500 LTZ
After a bit of research, it seems that steel tubing may be a good choice. It is heavier, but 3x stronger, so a thinner gauge could be used. I didn't like the flex in the aluminum, so am glad to use the more rigid steel. About 2# heavier, which is ok.
I'd like to ask about sealers for the roof now. Silicone may not be the best choice for a pup top. We are thinking elastomeric now. Any input on brands? Henry's seems good, but we'd sure be happy to hear people's experience with products. None is cheap, and I don't like to think about trying to remove the wrong choice!
Thank you! I found your thread and studied it, and it gave us hope! Our pup is smaller, and no AC, but we are doing much the same, thank you again. hope you don't mind questions if they arise.
reading through again, I see that you didn't seal the fiberglass top with any additional sealer? I honestly don't know where water could be leaking through on mine, but through somewhere on the top "skin". my husband calked all the seams so well, neither of us can find any seam un sealed. but of course, we will look again. our fiberglass top is obviously in need of something though, little fibers bristle all over if you brush against it.
Thank you! I found your thread and studied it, and it gave us hope! Our pup is smaller, and no AC, but we are doing much the same, thank you again. hope you don't mind questions if they arise.
reading through again, I see that you didn't seal the fiberglass top with any additional sealer? I honestly don't know where water could be leaking through on mine, but through somewhere on the top "skin". my husband calked all the seams so well, neither of us can find any seam un sealed. but of course, we will look again. our fiberglass top is obviously in need of something though, little fibers bristle all over if you brush against it.
Hi I would recommend a urethane sealant
Using disposable gloves!!
Mineral spirits
Smooth rag
Sikaflex sealant
And smooth it with s solvent
So at the joint mask off at 1/2 inch
Onto the top and the trim lay down the bead trowel with one smooth movement don’t play with it and spend careful time cleaning it off the tape with the solvent
Don’t want build up there and then carefully pull up the tape
If you want to paint it wait 2 weeks
Use an alkyd enamel
Done
It’s tough flexible and long lasting
Hi I would recommend a urethane sealant
Using disposable gloves!!
Mineral spirits
Smooth rag
Sikaflex sealant
And smooth it with s solvent
So at the joint mask off at 1/2 inch
Onto the top and the trim lay down the bead trowel with one smooth movement don’t play with it and spend careful time cleaning it off the tape with the solvent
Don’t want build up there and then carefully pull up the tape
If you want to paint it wait 2 weeks
Use an alkyd enamel
Done
It’s tough flexible and long lasting
MicroSealants are environmentally stable and contain no solvents or VOCS, are safe to use (virtually, although not technical food service grade) and do not off-gas, so they will not compromise air quality within the building envelope. https://www.chemlink.com/roof-repair-tapes
You want to confirm the membrane type. Mineral spirits and EPDM are not compatible. I recommend doing research on the Chemlink product for sealant (polyether). https://www.chemlink.com/m-1
MicroSealants are environmentally stable and contain no solvents or VOCS, are safe to use (virtually, although not technical food service grade) and do not off-gas, so they will not compromise air quality within the building envelope. https://www.chemlink.com/roof-repair-tapes
Alrighty then
We were talking about sealing the exterior of the roof lid at the trim joint
Or am I wrong
I will look into this technology
Have to say I might be a Little Old School
Lol
Always looking to learn [emoji848]
I'm not sure what we need. the skin over the camper is a seamless fiberglass sheet. it has become detached from the surface of the top in places, and has some wrinkles. I have not found any cracks or holes in this skin, but it could be I just haven't found them yet. there is no center seam, and the edges have been re-sealed with silicone. my husband is very good at this job and it looks to both of us like the fiberglass is well sealed at all the seams including around the fan on top. When it rains, water ponds on top of the roof, the weight causes the roof to dip down, and all we can think of is that the fiberglass skin has become porous from uv damage, and water is seeping through. when you look at the surface of the fiberglass skin closely, it seems almost fuzzy and it leaves fiberglass on and in your skin when you touch it.
for these reasons we want to reseal the entire top with something that is durable, somewhat flexible so it won't loosen with road vibration and is relatively safe and not terribly difficult to get on in an attractive manner.
We have seen Henrys enviro white elastomeric roof coat and are leaning towards that. I've read about several products, and it gets confusing though.
I'm sorry my posts may not have been clear, I realize that there are so many ways campers are built, just saying what kind it is is no help at all!
I'm not sure what we need. the skin over the camper is a seamless fiberglass sheet. it has become detached from the surface of the top in places, and has some wrinkles. I have not found any cracks or holes in this skin, but it could be I just haven't found them yet. there is no center seam, and the edges have been re-sealed with silicone. my husband is very good at this job and it looks to both of us like the fiberglass is well sealed at all the seams including around the fan on top. When it rains, water ponds on top of the roof, the weight causes the roof to dip down, and all we can think of is that the fiberglass skin has become porous from uv damage, and water is seeping through. when you look at the surface of the fiberglass skin closely, it seems almost fuzzy and it leaves fiberglass on and in your skin when you touch it.
for these reasons we want to reseal the entire top with something that is durable, somewhat flexible so it won't loosen with road vibration and is relatively safe and not terribly difficult to get on in an attractive manner.
We have seen Henrys enviro white elastomeric roof coat and are leaning towards that. I've read about several products, and it gets confusing though.
I'm sorry my posts may not have been clear, I realize that there are so many ways campers are built, just saying what kind it is is no help at all!
as we are prepping the top and finishing the last bits of seam sealing, I notice the some of the surface texture does have small, short cracks that a fingernail can get into. so we will use a thicker roof coating, like henrys enviro-white or grizzly grip. we want it flexible, and I think the henry's product is elastomeric. thanks to all, there is light at the end of the tunnel! we will go camping in it soon!
this is an 8' box, we live in New Mexico and are not a very regulated state. I don't want to install a brake controller on my van and wire a 7 pin connector into the van. not for a trailer that is under 2000#. Is there any reason a person "has to" connect the electric brakes? I actually don't even know if my pup has them.
I'm not 100% on this but if you have a 4 pin plug for your trailer, chances are it doesn't have electric brakes unless you have some type of proportional momentum braking system.
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