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Old 10-21-2019, 07:38 AM   #1
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Water heater drainage

How the heck do you unscrew/loosen the water heater drain/anode. I released the pressure already but the screw won't budge. Do I need a specific tool?
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Old 10-21-2019, 07:46 AM   #2
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:03 AM   #3
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I got it. Had a wrench on the screw and used vice grips to turn the wrench. Once I got it loose it unscrewed fairly easily. Probably not the best method. But I didn't strip anything And saved me a trip from the CG to Walmart to buy a torque wrench or something.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:10 AM   #4
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One thing the video does not show is to open the relief valve at the top of the tank. That will relieve any pressure in the tank and prevent that little 'pop' of water when he took the anode out. You'll get wet either way. Lol.
I have a question about the cleaning out of the tank though. Any reason not to open the cold water inlet and hook up city water to flush the tank? Seeing as the cold inlet is on the bottom directly across from the anode hole, I figure it'll push the sediment out that way.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:43 AM   #5
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I drain my tank after use because the water will eat the anode regardless of the use/disuse state of the heater when its full of water.

Eating the anode leaves behind lots of deposit in the bottom of the tank so I do it to save the anode and reduce debri buildup.
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Old 10-21-2019, 08:47 AM   #6
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One thing the video does not show is to open the relief valve at the top of the tank. That will relieve any pressure in the tank and prevent that little 'pop' of water when he took the anode out. You'll get wet either way. Lol.
I have a question about the cleaning out of the tank though. Any reason not to open the cold water inlet and hook up city water to flush the tank? Seeing as the cold inlet is on the bottom directly across from the anode hole, I figure it'll push the sediment out that way.
Or you could simply open any hot water faucet in the trailer.

In all the time that I've been draining water heaters and changing anode rods, I have yet to touch the relief valve when doing it.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:05 AM   #7
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Or you could simply open any hot water faucet in the trailer.

In all the time that I've been draining water heaters and changing anode rods, I have yet to touch the relief valve when doing it.
Sure, you can do that too. The TP relief is right there though.
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Old 10-21-2019, 10:06 AM   #8
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Or you could simply open any hot water faucet in the trailer.

In all the time that I've been draining water heaters and changing anode rods, I have yet to touch the relief valve when doing it.
True, I have an external shower so even closed I can open the water system....

I would think repeatedly cycling of the pressure blow-off could lead to premature failure. They aren't really intended for regular use.
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Old 10-21-2019, 02:49 PM   #9
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I didn't put the anode rod back in before dropping it off at the storage facility. It was hard to thread and figured I'll just get a new one in the spring. Is that ok?
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Old 10-21-2019, 03:19 PM   #10
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.... Any reason not to open the cold water inlet and hook up city water to flush the tank? Seeing as the cold inlet is on the bottom directly across from the anode hole, I figure it'll push the sediment out that way.

that's an idea that would flush out some, but I don't think it would be as effective as the tool made for flushing the tank, ... w/the anode removed, the incoming water would just flow from the in port to the open hole of the anode, ... plus, it would not give you the advantage of the jet flow from the tool and also being able to direct the jet in all directions inside the tank, ...
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Old 10-22-2019, 06:26 AM   #11
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I use a 15/16" x 1/2" socket and ratchet with a 4" extension to remove the anode. Be careful as you will be exerting a lot of force on the anode fitting when unscrewing and putting back in and be careful not to cross thread, bad thing to happen. I use teflon tape on the anode threads when replacing anode. Be sure to clean threads on water heater. I use a small wire brush I got at HF.
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Old 10-22-2019, 08:23 AM   #12
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I have a set of plumbing socket style wrenches, they were pretty cheap. One of them fit perfectly, and I slipped a small pipe over the end of the t-handle for better leverage. It did the trick. But I had forgotten to relieve pressure. Glad I was not standing in front of the rod as it got to the final thread. It shot out like a rocket and landed in yard about 12 feet from the trailer. On the grass thankfully, so was not damaged.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:00 PM   #13
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I didn't put the anode rod back in before dropping it off at the storage facility. It was hard to thread and figured I'll just get a new one in the spring. Is that ok?


I did this and the threads corroded. I would but it back in over winter.
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Old 10-22-2019, 09:24 PM   #14
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True, I have an external shower so even closed I can open the water system....

I would think repeatedly cycling of the pressure blow-off could lead to premature failure. They aren't really intended for regular use.
Depending on what you mean by "regular" use, maybe. Thing is, manufacturers recommend they be reated every year. Some, recommend every 6 months. This is so the stem remains free of corrosion and they do not stick closed beyond their rated pressure. If it does not seat properly after you test it, it needed to be replaced anyway. Same goes for the one in your home.
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:33 PM   #15
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I screwed it back in today as far as I could without a socket wrench. I will be investing in a socket wrench for the spring dewinterizing!
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:37 PM   #16
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Or just get a set of these, handy for all kinds of plumbing projects, and cheap.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Eastman-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
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Old 10-23-2019, 03:58 PM   #17
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I screwed it back in today as far as I could without a socket wrench. I will be investing in a socket wrench for the spring dewinterizing!
I went ahead and bought a socket and wrench just for this and keep it in the camper permanently so I know it is always there. I also have some sockets for the hitch and such that I can use with the same wrench, and have, but its primary purpose is for the water heater.
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Old 10-23-2019, 04:24 PM   #18
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I use a 15/16" x 1/2" socket and ratchet with a 4" extension to remove the anode. Be careful as you will be exerting a lot of force on the anode fitting when unscrewing and putting back in and be careful not to cross thread, bad thing to happen. I use teflon tape on the anode threads when replacing anode. Be sure to clean threads on water heater. I use a small wire brush I got at HF.
What brand of anode rod do you use? All of the anode rods I've ever used have a 1 1/16" pipe nut.
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Old 10-23-2019, 04:31 PM   #19
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What brand of anode rod do you use? All of the anode rods I've ever used have a 1 1/16" pipe nut.
Same here. Maybe it's an Atwood with a plastic plug and not an anode rod.
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Old 10-23-2019, 05:01 PM   #20
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https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...7751_200627751

I picked up this 1/2" large socket set for $30 and leave in the TT. It includes the 1-1/8 and 1-1/16 sizes I need to adjust my E2 WDH and the water heater anode. I also picked up a 1/4" socket set for the smaller sizes.

I have to ask the obvious question since several people mentioned opening faucets to relieve pressure in the HW tank. Any time I've drained my HW tank, I have it in bypass. If it's in bypass, opening a faucet shouldn't effect the pressure in the WH, correct? You have to use the pressure relief valve.
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