What cheap outlets!

[Myron625]

One of the 110 outlets broke in our camper. When I looked at it, I realized how cheap they are made. They could have even been broken when originally installed at the factory, just over tightening the screws would do that. I think that is what happened to at least one of the two. They don’t have a standard outlet box, it is an all-in-one design.

I replaced both standard inside outlets today with regular outlets with USB ports. I had to first enlarge the opening and install an “old work” outlet box. The back outlet was a little tricky, the wall behind the paneling is angled and I barely had the depth to fit the box.

There were GFCI stickers on the old covers but they weren’t GFCI outlets. I think they just all feed from one that is.

[nomad297]

Originally Posted by Myron625

There were GFCI stickers on the old covers but they weren’t GFCI outlets. I think they just all feed from one that is.

That’s the way GFCI outlets work.

Bruce

[R time soon]

If labeled correctly they will show they are GCFI protected, that is that they are downstream of the receptacle and protected. Daisy chained if you will..

[BehindBars]

GFCI outlets have a line side and a load side for wiring. Any downstream “standard” outlets wired to the load side of the GFCI outlet will be ground fault protected by the first GFCI outlet, are be labeled as such.

[XLTShaker]

Originally Posted by Myron625

One of the 110 outlets broke in our camper. When I looked at it, I realized how cheap they are made. They could have even been broken when originally installed at the factory, just over tightening the screws would do that. I think that is what happened to at least one of the two. They don’t have a standard outlet box, it is an all-in-one design.

I replaced both standard inside outlets today with regular outlets with USB ports. I had to first enlarge the opening and install an “old work” outlet box. The back outlet was a little tricky, the wall behind the paneling is angled and I barely had the depth to fit the box.

There were GFCI stickers on the old covers but they weren’t GFCI outlets. I think they just all feed from one that is.

I know what you are talking about. I've replaced some of the outlets in my 2017 Leprechaun. If the hold down screws are tightened too much, the outlet will crack. I replaced a couple of mine with same type of outlet which are very difficult to do, and was careful when tightening. But the others I replaced with household ones. I did have to open holes a little and one of them I used a short box because of wall thickness, or lack of it.
I could not own an RV/MH if I wasn't handy, and I've done a lot to our Leprechaun, mostly upgrades though. I don’t believe in the saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it ". As long as I'm able, I'll continue to do all my own work, oil changes, etc. on both my MH and other vehicles.

Safe travels to all and hope this mess clears up at some point. Ron

[Cypressloser]

Yeah, I replaced a few over the years with AC USB combo outlets. I don't think it makes any difference whether you have a pop up or a $$$$$ motorhome, they all use the same outlets. However, any RV is an earthquake on wheels and it may be a good idea to wrap the outlets in electrical tape before stuffing them back into the box to prevent the screws from making contact with the box and potentially causing a short or worse.

[Myron625]

Originally Posted by Cypressloser

However, any RV is an earthquake on wheels and it may be a good idea to wrap the outlets in electrical tape before stuffing them back into the box to prevent the screws from making contact with the box and potentially causing a short or worse.

I didn’t bother with wrapping the screws. The new outlets are mounted securely in a plastic electrical box and the connections are on opposite sides of the outlet. Even if they do somehow make contact with the box, there’s nothing to short out.

[rsdata]

XLTShaker

I could not own an RV/MH if I wasn't handy, and I've done a lot to our Leprechaun, mostly upgrades though. I don’t believe in the saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it ". As long as I'm able, I'll continue to do all my own work, oil changes, etc. on both my MH and other vehicles.

This should be required reading for prospective owners.

[katanajo24]

Hi, I have a 2018 Leprechaun 319MB and the bedside outlets have NO USB ports. Driving me nuts. Are you telling me that I can take a standard 110 outlet w/USB ports and install them in this camper? Sorry if that is an ignorant question. I have a GFI reset button on my bathroom outlet that "appears" to control ALL of the 110 outlets in the RV. Thank you.

[Qwkynuf]

I would never install integrated usb outlets, for a couple of reasons:

1) USB charging standards have changed over the years - especially for phones and tablets. Is the integrated outlet going to charge at .5A? 1.2A? 2.0A? 2.1A? 3.0A? Will it support my next device?

2) Those outlets have to convert 110v AC to 5v DC, so they contain an internal transformer (just like your phone's wall wart), and it is powered up and consuming energy 100% of the time that the outlet has power.

Speaking just for myself, I'll just plug in a charger when I need one.

[rsdata]

I like these
just plug and go with 4 USB outlets and 6 110 AC outlets
these plug into a standard 2-plug outlet

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by rsdata

I like these
just plug and go with 4 USB outlets and 6 110 AC outlets
these plug into a standard 2-plug outlet

44 bucks for two and they are used? (Well, they say unused, but why would the packaging be open if they haven't been used?)

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Qwkynuf

I would never install integrated usb outlets, for a couple of reasons:

1) USB charging standards have changed over the years - especially for phones and tablets. Is the integrated outlet going to charge at .5A? 1.2A? 2.0A? 2.1A? 3.0A? Will it support my next device?

2) Those outlets have to convert 110v AC to 5v DC, so they contain an internal transformer (just like your phone's wall wart), and it is powered up and consuming energy 100% of the time that the outlet has power.

Speaking just for myself, I'll just plug in a charger when I need one.

If connected to shore power or on generator how much power is lost? even at 3 amp that's a max of 15 watts and won't be overloading any supply source

The big problem I see is the LACK of 5 V power at the USB charging ports when NOT connected to shore power etc.

My outlets and ports are supplied separately, 120 volt outlets from shore power, USB from 12 volt battery supply.

[Qwkynuf]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

If connected to shore power or on generator how much power is lost? even at 3 amp that's a max of 15 watts and won't be overloading any supply source

The big problem I see is the LACK of 5 V power at the USB charging ports when NOT connected to shore power etc.

My outlets and ports are supplied separately, 120 volt outlets from shore power, USB from 12 volt battery supply.

But that's 15 watts, 24 hours per day, 7 days per week, as long as you are plugged in. If it feels warm, it's using electricity.

I'm not in danger of chaining myself to a tree anytime soon, or laying down in front of a bulldozer - but I do like to conserve where I can. Or at least not waste on purpose.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Qwkynuf

But that's 15 watts, 24 hours per day, 7 days per week, as long as you are plugged in. If it feels warm, it's using electricity.

I'm not in danger of chaining myself to a tree anytime soon, or laying down in front of a bulldozer - but I do like to conserve where I can. Or at least not waste on purpose.

Put an ammeter inline with the outlet sometime and look at how much (rather little) current is actually drawn when no power being used at USB port. May be surprised.

As for conservation, I replaced every light in my house with LED's and then bought a Chevy Volt. Even with charging the battery my power bill went down.

Don't worry about those small amounts, I took care of your share too

[NJKris]

Ever hear of builder grade? The RV industry takes it to an extreme that's hard to match.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by Qwkynuf

I would never install integrated usb outlets, for a couple of reasons:

1) USB charging standards have changed over the years - especially for phones and tablets. Is the integrated outlet going to charge at .5A? 1.2A? 2.0A? 2.1A? 3.0A? Will it support my next device?

2) Those outlets have to convert 110v AC to 5v DC, so they contain an internal transformer (just like your phone's wall wart), and it is powered up and consuming energy 100% of the time that the outlet has power.

Speaking just for myself, I'll just plug in a charger when I need one.

I came to that same conclusion recently and will replace the USB outlets with plain 12V accessory outlets, where the device permits. (I have some spare 12V outlets from a previous project.)

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Ever hear of builder grade? The RV industry takes it to an extreme that's hard to match.

One of the challenges in the RV industry is that unlike residential construction where there is a minimum of 3-12" between outside sheathing and the drywall (2X4 studs) RV's can have an average of 1-1/2" of space. The general solution was to use an integrated wall box/outlet and insulation displacement connectors. And of course find the cheapest they can.