|
|
07-06-2020, 06:08 AM
|
#1
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 2
|
What is this Item and what is it used for.
Just took possession of a 2020 206LTD/MAC. In one of the cabinets was a zipper pouch containing the manual for the power lift system and an orange plastic item. Looks like a tool of some sort. Does anyone know what it is used for? I have included photos of it. It is approximately 9 inches long. Both ends a hex shaped but different sizes. Our salesman said he had no clue what it is.
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 07:00 AM
|
#2
|
PhD, Common Sense
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Fairborn, OH
Posts: 1,384
|
I can think of two possible explanations:
1. The person who placed the zipper pouch has a sense of humor and put a useless piece of plastic in the bag in order to drive you nuts.
2. That person conducts an orchestra with many visually-challenged members. He has been wondering for weeks where he left his baton.
Other than that, I am clueless.
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 07:23 AM
|
#3
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Box elder
Posts: 730
|
Back when I worked in the electronics field. We had plastic tools like that to use in TVs to prevent getting shocked. Other that that, no idea.
__________________
2015 silverback 31IK
2023 f350
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 07:26 AM
|
#4
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Jersey Shore
Posts: 717
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by kcmusa
Back when I worked in the electronics field. We had plastic tools like that to use in TVs to prevent getting shocked. Other that that, no idea.
|
X2
__________________
Bill and Gail
2016 Sunseeker 3010DS
V10 6 speed transmission
2017 Ford Fiesta toad
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 07:41 AM
|
#5
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Hawkins, Texas
Posts: 1,243
|
My guess is that it is an adapter for the manual operation of slide or a hydrophilic pump of some type.
But like I said I do not know for sure, and this is only a guess.
__________________
Chuck & Sandra
Engineer/Teacher
2010 F350 CC 6.4
2015 Prime Time Sanibel 3601
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 08:40 AM
|
#6
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Southwest Alabama
Posts: 9,850
|
Look on page 6 of the manual. It references a pair of 4mm hex screws for adjusting the stops, that tool is for adjusting those screws. It says to use an allen wrench, but they include that tool to make them easier to reach.
__________________
Salem 29RKSS Pushing a GMC Sierra 2500HD!
Gotta go campin!
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 09:05 AM
|
#7
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler
Look on page 6 of the manual. It references a pair of 4mm hex screws for adjusting the stops, that tool is for adjusting those screws. It says to use an allen wrench, but they include that tool to make them easier to reach.
|
Yep........... see this, OP:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...gy-189552.html
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 11:57 AM
|
#8
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
|
As was said, it's a tool used for popups.
Thread moved to the Tent Camper and Popup section.
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 12:33 PM
|
#9
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 335
|
Covid-19 test swab???
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 12:51 PM
|
#10
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
|
You can sure tell who's never owned a popup. [emoji6]
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 02:05 PM
|
#11
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: NJ
Posts: 606
|
Swizzle stick?
__________________
DrLewie
Flemington, NJ
Former: 2007 Cardinal 30W LE
Now:2018 Arctic Fox 27-5L
2008 Ford F-250 Long Bed Diesel
Total of 30 Months on the Road Since 2008
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 03:56 PM
|
#12
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: N.Arkansas
Posts: 1,694
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrLewie
Swizzle stick?
|
For a very very tall frozen Margarita.
__________________
cyote61
DX3 36 TS 2018
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 03:58 PM
|
#13
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
|
Read posts 6, 7, and 8.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 03:59 PM
|
#14
|
Pickin', Campin', Mason
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 19,149
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff43x
Just took possession of a 2020 206LTD/MAC. In one of the cabinets was a zipper pouch containing the manual for the power lift system and an orange plastic item. Looks like a tool of some sort. Does anyone know what it is used for? I have included photos of it. It is approximately 9 inches long. Both ends a hex shaped but different sizes. Our salesman said he had no clue what it is.
|
Oh Boy!
__________________
2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2024 Ford F-Series SCREW•7.3L•4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA
Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=90
|
|
|
07-06-2020, 11:47 PM
|
#15
|
Living the Dream
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 42
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff43x
Just took possession of a 2020 206LTD/MAC. In one of the cabinets was a zipper pouch containing the manual for the power lift system and an orange plastic item. Looks like a tool of some sort. Does anyone know what it is used for? I have included photos of it. It is approximately 9 inches long. Both ends a hex shaped but different sizes. Our salesman said he had no clue what it is.
|
I have good information that this piece is the upper Kanooter extension adapter. This of course is used to hang a left hand sky hook.
|
|
|
07-07-2020, 12:14 PM
|
#16
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: 8300 Feet - Rocky Mountains
Posts: 2,475
|
On limit switches and other such "nonsense."
By now you understand that this tool adjusts the limit switches for the power winch to raise and lower your pop-up roof.
Sadly, this limit switch is a VERY weak link in a critical chain. So, yours is brand new, and you may never have problems with it, but don't count on that.
If your roof will raise but not fully lower, or if your roof lowers but won't fully raise, you need only adjust the limit switches. But if your roof craps out entirely in one or both directions, it's possible (likely) that your limit switch mechanism has self-destructed.
Most likely, you have this: https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...nch-Manual.pdf
Page 6 shows the switch and how to adjust.
This is what the bugger looks like in the flesh: https://www.hannarv.com/Content/file....jpg?width=225
Mine had a white body, but no real difference.
Now look closely at the "device". That ring gear on the upper end is PLASTIC. That plastic gear engages a main, steel, winch gear, and those plastic teeth don't have a chance in hell of surviving very long in the hostile, wet, dusty environment on the tongue of a camper. The teeth on mine sheared off in the second season.
The GOOD NEWS. A limit switch is "NORMALLY CLOSED". This means the switch is normally "on", and hitting the limit "opens" or shuts off the circuit. If you're in a jam, you can bypass the switch entirely using some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Groups-Leads-...a-835694848522
Go straight from the toggle switch you use to operate the lift and jumper around the limit switch to the back of the relay that is connected to the limit switch. The wires are color coded from the toggle, to the limit switch, out of the limit switch to the relay connection. Red-to-red and black-to-black (or white-to-white) - you get the idea. There are just two wires...the "common" wire already bypasses the limit switch. This is a "low amps" connection...the relays are triggered by the toggle to carry the high amps needed to run the motor. And guess what. If you mistakenly reverse the wires, the roof will go "up" while the toggle is "down" and vice-versa. Swap 'em. No big deal, and no threat of ruining something.
Also note that there's a handy-dandy plastic plug covering a manual override for the winch that you can drive with your cordless drill and the 3/4" socket you use to raise and lower your stabilizer jacks. Don't try to raise and lower the roof with the hand crank unless you have about 3 weeks. But a cordless drill will do it in about triple the time of the winch motor. I camped 3 times using the manual override while I noodled out the limit switch fiasco. Be sure to carry at least one spare battery for your cordless drill.
For the record, I overrode my limit switch and left it that way. That little (often) red "tell-tale" cable between your tub and the roof - driver's side front of the tub - is all you need to know when the roof is up, and if you can't tell when it's down, well...I don't know what to say about that.
Don't have a cordless drill and 3/4" socket? Whatsamatter witchou? Get a good one...$100 for a Porter Cable (DeWalt knockoff) complete with two batteries. (I bought mine on sale for $70 at Lowe's) https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABL...luded/50125879
AND WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT USE AN IMPACT DRIVER. The bozos that use these sound like wounded woodpeckers in their death throws, and they are godawful slow, so the rest of us get to listen to that racket for about 10 minutes!! I have one, and it has its place. That place is not raising/lowering stab jacks and so on.
While you're at it, throw a good set of drill bits, screwdriver tips, and some spare hardware (stainless screws, nuts, bolts) for when things rattle apart. Stainless is compatible with aluminum and steel, won't rust, and is far stronger than the silly aluminum screws they use to assemble many parts on the exterior. Be ready to do field repairs, and that will substantially lower your frustration levels. USE A HAND SCREWDRIVER to finish driving screws into the tissue paper they call fiberglass and paneling. Nothing will ruin your day faster than seeing how easy it is to strip any screw in a camper.
Get some Gorilla Glue to hold screws in "wood" and LocTite for metal. Everything rattles apart over time...especially if you boondock.
So, this was the answer to a question you didn't ask...yet..but sooner or later you would have.
__________________
Jim & Renee
2020 Jayco Jay Feather X-213
previously 2014 Forest River/Rockwood HW 277
2006 Ram 1500 4WD Crew with Firestone Airbags
Every weekend boondocking in the National Forests or at Lake Vallecito.
|
|
|
07-07-2020, 12:55 PM
|
#17
|
Site Team
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Goodyear, Arizona
Posts: 33,855
|
Thanks Jim, for posting a response from a knowledgeable popup owner.[emoji847]
__________________
Dan-Retired California Firefighter/EMT
Shawn-Musician/Entrepreneur/Wine Expert
and Zoe the Wonder Dog(R.I.P.)
2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255, pushing a 2014 Ford F150 SCREW XTR 4x4 3.5 Ecoboost w/Max Tow Package
4pt Equal-i-zer WDH and 1828lbs of payload capacity
|
|
|
07-10-2020, 05:20 PM
|
#18
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Posts: 123
|
Swizzle Stick???
I think you were given some production line employee's swizzle stick from a lunch break featuring adult beverages (ooh ahh!). It was probably payday Friday and someone was doing a little unwinding with their mask removed!
|
|
|
07-10-2020, 05:29 PM
|
#19
|
Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Grayson County, Texas
Posts: 21,587
|
Some members here have considered reading the correct answer(s) posted above.
__________________
2015 FR Wildcat 295RSX / GMC Sierra
Nights Camped: '13 = 49/'14 = 74/'15 = 74/'16 = 85/'17 = 110/'18 = 111/'19 = 86/'20 =108/'21 = 115/'22 = 135/'23 = 78; Booked for 2024 = 69
|
|
|
07-13-2020, 10:22 PM
|
#20
|
HikerBob
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Cedar City, Utah
Posts: 229
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmoore13
On limit switches and other such "nonsense."
By now you understand that this tool adjusts the limit switches for the power winch to raise and lower your pop-up roof.
Sadly, this limit switch is a VERY weak link in a critical chain. So, yours is brand new, and you may never have problems with it, but don't count on that.
If your roof will raise but not fully lower, or if your roof lowers but won't fully raise, you need only adjust the limit switches. But if your roof craps out entirely in one or both directions, it's possible (likely) that your limit switch mechanism has self-destructed.
Most likely, you have this: https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...nch-Manual.pdf
Page 6 shows the switch and how to adjust.
This is what the bugger looks like in the flesh: https://www.hannarv.com/Content/file....jpg?width=225
Mine had a white body, but no real difference.
Now look closely at the "device". That ring gear on the upper end is PLASTIC. That plastic gear engages a main, steel, winch gear, and those plastic teeth don't have a chance in hell of surviving very long in the hostile, wet, dusty environment on the tongue of a camper. The teeth on mine sheared off in the second season.
The GOOD NEWS. A limit switch is "NORMALLY CLOSED". This means the switch is normally "on", and hitting the limit "opens" or shuts off the circuit. If you're in a jam, you can bypass the switch entirely using some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Groups-Leads-...a-835694848522
Go straight from the toggle switch you use to operate the lift and jumper around the limit switch to the back of the relay that is connected to the limit switch. The wires are color coded from the toggle, to the limit switch, out of the limit switch to the relay connection. Red-to-red and black-to-black (or white-to-white) - you get the idea. There are just two wires...the "common" wire already bypasses the limit switch. This is a "low amps" connection...the relays are triggered by the toggle to carry the high amps needed to run the motor. And guess what. If you mistakenly reverse the wires, the roof will go "up" while the toggle is "down" and vice-versa. Swap 'em. No big deal, and no threat of ruining something.
Also note that there's a handy-dandy plastic plug covering a manual override for the winch that you can drive with your cordless drill and the 3/4" socket you use to raise and lower your stabilizer jacks. Don't try to raise and lower the roof with the hand crank unless you have about 3 weeks. But a cordless drill will do it in about triple the time of the winch motor. I camped 3 times using the manual override while I noodled out the limit switch fiasco. Be sure to carry at least one spare battery for your cordless drill.
For the record, I overrode my limit switch and left it that way. That little (often) red "tell-tale" cable between your tub and the roof - driver's side front of the tub - is all you need to know when the roof is up, and if you can't tell when it's down, well...I don't know what to say about that.
Don't have a cordless drill and 3/4" socket? Whatsamatter witchou? Get a good one...$100 for a Porter Cable (DeWalt knockoff) complete with two batteries. (I bought mine on sale for $70 at Lowe's) https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABL...luded/50125879
AND WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT USE AN IMPACT DRIVER. The bozos that use these sound like wounded woodpeckers in their death throws, and they are godawful slow, so the rest of us get to listen to that racket for about 10 minutes!! I have one, and it has its place. That place is not raising/lowering stab jacks and so on.
While you're at it, throw a good set of drill bits, screwdriver tips, and some spare hardware (stainless screws, nuts, bolts) for when things rattle apart. Stainless is compatible with aluminum and steel, won't rust, and is far stronger than the silly aluminum screws they use to assemble many parts on the exterior. Be ready to do field repairs, and that will substantially lower your frustration levels. USE A HAND SCREWDRIVER to finish driving screws into the tissue paper they call fiberglass and paneling. Nothing will ruin your day faster than seeing how easy it is to strip any screw in a camper.
Get some Gorilla Glue to hold screws in "wood" and LocTite for metal. Everything rattles apart over time...especially if you boondock.
So, this was the answer to a question you didn't ask...yet..but sooner or later you would have.
|
Thank you jimmoore for such good advice regarding "nonsense". Your comment about use of an impact driver for stab jacks is right-on. Somebody pulled out at 11:00 PM and used one, waking up the entire campground. Also your advice about using Gorilla Glue is right-on for anyone with any "xxxx-lite" trailer, since the wood they use in those things is made from sawdust and glue, and it strips if you look at it sideways.
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|