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Old 07-06-2020, 06:08 AM   #1
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What is this Item and what is it used for.

Just took possession of a 2020 206LTD/MAC. In one of the cabinets was a zipper pouch containing the manual for the power lift system and an orange plastic item. Looks like a tool of some sort. Does anyone know what it is used for? I have included photos of it. It is approximately 9 inches long. Both ends a hex shaped but different sizes. Our salesman said he had no clue what it is.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:00 AM   #2
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I can think of two possible explanations:

1. The person who placed the zipper pouch has a sense of humor and put a useless piece of plastic in the bag in order to drive you nuts.

2. That person conducts an orchestra with many visually-challenged members. He has been wondering for weeks where he left his baton.

Other than that, I am clueless.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:23 AM   #3
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Back when I worked in the electronics field. We had plastic tools like that to use in TVs to prevent getting shocked. Other that that, no idea.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:26 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by kcmusa View Post
Back when I worked in the electronics field. We had plastic tools like that to use in TVs to prevent getting shocked. Other that that, no idea.
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Old 07-06-2020, 07:41 AM   #5
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My guess is that it is an adapter for the manual operation of slide or a hydrophilic pump of some type.

But like I said I do not know for sure, and this is only a guess.
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Old 07-06-2020, 08:40 AM   #6
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Look on page 6 of the manual. It references a pair of 4mm hex screws for adjusting the stops, that tool is for adjusting those screws. It says to use an allen wrench, but they include that tool to make them easier to reach.
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Old 07-06-2020, 09:05 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama Rambler View Post
Look on page 6 of the manual. It references a pair of 4mm hex screws for adjusting the stops, that tool is for adjusting those screws. It says to use an allen wrench, but they include that tool to make them easier to reach.
Yep........... see this, OP:
https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...gy-189552.html
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Old 07-06-2020, 11:57 AM   #8
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As was said, it's a tool used for popups.
Thread moved to the Tent Camper and Popup section.
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Old 07-06-2020, 12:33 PM   #9
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Old 07-06-2020, 12:51 PM   #10
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You can sure tell who's never owned a popup.
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Old 07-06-2020, 02:05 PM   #11
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Swizzle stick?
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:56 PM   #12
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Swizzle stick?
For a very very tall frozen Margarita.
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:58 PM   #13
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Read posts 6, 7, and 8.
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Old 07-06-2020, 03:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff43x View Post
Just took possession of a 2020 206LTD/MAC. In one of the cabinets was a zipper pouch containing the manual for the power lift system and an orange plastic item. Looks like a tool of some sort. Does anyone know what it is used for? I have included photos of it. It is approximately 9 inches long. Both ends a hex shaped but different sizes. Our salesman said he had no clue what it is.
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Old 07-06-2020, 11:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff43x View Post
Just took possession of a 2020 206LTD/MAC. In one of the cabinets was a zipper pouch containing the manual for the power lift system and an orange plastic item. Looks like a tool of some sort. Does anyone know what it is used for? I have included photos of it. It is approximately 9 inches long. Both ends a hex shaped but different sizes. Our salesman said he had no clue what it is.

I have good information that this piece is the upper Kanooter extension adapter. This of course is used to hang a left hand sky hook.
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Old 07-07-2020, 12:14 PM   #16
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On limit switches and other such "nonsense."

By now you understand that this tool adjusts the limit switches for the power winch to raise and lower your pop-up roof.

Sadly, this limit switch is a VERY weak link in a critical chain. So, yours is brand new, and you may never have problems with it, but don't count on that.

If your roof will raise but not fully lower, or if your roof lowers but won't fully raise, you need only adjust the limit switches. But if your roof craps out entirely in one or both directions, it's possible (likely) that your limit switch mechanism has self-destructed.

Most likely, you have this: https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...nch-Manual.pdf
Page 6 shows the switch and how to adjust.

This is what the bugger looks like in the flesh: https://www.hannarv.com/Content/file....jpg?width=225
Mine had a white body, but no real difference.

Now look closely at the "device". That ring gear on the upper end is PLASTIC. That plastic gear engages a main, steel, winch gear, and those plastic teeth don't have a chance in hell of surviving very long in the hostile, wet, dusty environment on the tongue of a camper. The teeth on mine sheared off in the second season.

The GOOD NEWS. A limit switch is "NORMALLY CLOSED". This means the switch is normally "on", and hitting the limit "opens" or shuts off the circuit. If you're in a jam, you can bypass the switch entirely using some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Groups-Leads-...a-835694848522
Go straight from the toggle switch you use to operate the lift and jumper around the limit switch to the back of the relay that is connected to the limit switch. The wires are color coded from the toggle, to the limit switch, out of the limit switch to the relay connection. Red-to-red and black-to-black (or white-to-white) - you get the idea. There are just two wires...the "common" wire already bypasses the limit switch. This is a "low amps" connection...the relays are triggered by the toggle to carry the high amps needed to run the motor. And guess what. If you mistakenly reverse the wires, the roof will go "up" while the toggle is "down" and vice-versa. Swap 'em. No big deal, and no threat of ruining something.

Also note that there's a handy-dandy plastic plug covering a manual override for the winch that you can drive with your cordless drill and the 3/4" socket you use to raise and lower your stabilizer jacks. Don't try to raise and lower the roof with the hand crank unless you have about 3 weeks. But a cordless drill will do it in about triple the time of the winch motor. I camped 3 times using the manual override while I noodled out the limit switch fiasco. Be sure to carry at least one spare battery for your cordless drill.

For the record, I overrode my limit switch and left it that way. That little (often) red "tell-tale" cable between your tub and the roof - driver's side front of the tub - is all you need to know when the roof is up, and if you can't tell when it's down, well...I don't know what to say about that.

Don't have a cordless drill and 3/4" socket? Whatsamatter witchou? Get a good one...$100 for a Porter Cable (DeWalt knockoff) complete with two batteries. (I bought mine on sale for $70 at Lowe's) https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABL...luded/50125879
AND WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT USE AN IMPACT DRIVER. The bozos that use these sound like wounded woodpeckers in their death throws, and they are godawful slow, so the rest of us get to listen to that racket for about 10 minutes!! I have one, and it has its place. That place is not raising/lowering stab jacks and so on.

While you're at it, throw a good set of drill bits, screwdriver tips, and some spare hardware (stainless screws, nuts, bolts) for when things rattle apart. Stainless is compatible with aluminum and steel, won't rust, and is far stronger than the silly aluminum screws they use to assemble many parts on the exterior. Be ready to do field repairs, and that will substantially lower your frustration levels. USE A HAND SCREWDRIVER to finish driving screws into the tissue paper they call fiberglass and paneling. Nothing will ruin your day faster than seeing how easy it is to strip any screw in a camper.
Get some Gorilla Glue to hold screws in "wood" and LocTite for metal. Everything rattles apart over time...especially if you boondock.

So, this was the answer to a question you didn't ask...yet..but sooner or later you would have.

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Old 07-07-2020, 12:55 PM   #17
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Thanks Jim, for posting a response from a knowledgeable popup owner.
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Old 07-10-2020, 05:20 PM   #18
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Swizzle Stick???

I think you were given some production line employee's swizzle stick from a lunch break featuring adult beverages (ooh ahh!). It was probably payday Friday and someone was doing a little unwinding with their mask removed!
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Old 07-10-2020, 05:29 PM   #19
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Some members here have considered reading the correct answer(s) posted above.
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Old 07-13-2020, 10:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmoore13 View Post
On limit switches and other such "nonsense."

By now you understand that this tool adjusts the limit switches for the power winch to raise and lower your pop-up roof.

Sadly, this limit switch is a VERY weak link in a critical chain. So, yours is brand new, and you may never have problems with it, but don't count on that.

If your roof will raise but not fully lower, or if your roof lowers but won't fully raise, you need only adjust the limit switches. But if your roof craps out entirely in one or both directions, it's possible (likely) that your limit switch mechanism has self-destructed.

Most likely, you have this: https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/d...nch-Manual.pdf
Page 6 shows the switch and how to adjust.

This is what the bugger looks like in the flesh: https://www.hannarv.com/Content/file....jpg?width=225
Mine had a white body, but no real difference.

Now look closely at the "device". That ring gear on the upper end is PLASTIC. That plastic gear engages a main, steel, winch gear, and those plastic teeth don't have a chance in hell of surviving very long in the hostile, wet, dusty environment on the tongue of a camper. The teeth on mine sheared off in the second season.

The GOOD NEWS. A limit switch is "NORMALLY CLOSED". This means the switch is normally "on", and hitting the limit "opens" or shuts off the circuit. If you're in a jam, you can bypass the switch entirely using some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Groups-Leads-...a-835694848522
Go straight from the toggle switch you use to operate the lift and jumper around the limit switch to the back of the relay that is connected to the limit switch. The wires are color coded from the toggle, to the limit switch, out of the limit switch to the relay connection. Red-to-red and black-to-black (or white-to-white) - you get the idea. There are just two wires...the "common" wire already bypasses the limit switch. This is a "low amps" connection...the relays are triggered by the toggle to carry the high amps needed to run the motor. And guess what. If you mistakenly reverse the wires, the roof will go "up" while the toggle is "down" and vice-versa. Swap 'em. No big deal, and no threat of ruining something.

Also note that there's a handy-dandy plastic plug covering a manual override for the winch that you can drive with your cordless drill and the 3/4" socket you use to raise and lower your stabilizer jacks. Don't try to raise and lower the roof with the hand crank unless you have about 3 weeks. But a cordless drill will do it in about triple the time of the winch motor. I camped 3 times using the manual override while I noodled out the limit switch fiasco. Be sure to carry at least one spare battery for your cordless drill.

For the record, I overrode my limit switch and left it that way. That little (often) red "tell-tale" cable between your tub and the roof - driver's side front of the tub - is all you need to know when the roof is up, and if you can't tell when it's down, well...I don't know what to say about that.

Don't have a cordless drill and 3/4" socket? Whatsamatter witchou? Get a good one...$100 for a Porter Cable (DeWalt knockoff) complete with two batteries. (I bought mine on sale for $70 at Lowe's) https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABL...luded/50125879
AND WHATEVER YOU DO DO NOT USE AN IMPACT DRIVER. The bozos that use these sound like wounded woodpeckers in their death throws, and they are godawful slow, so the rest of us get to listen to that racket for about 10 minutes!! I have one, and it has its place. That place is not raising/lowering stab jacks and so on.

While you're at it, throw a good set of drill bits, screwdriver tips, and some spare hardware (stainless screws, nuts, bolts) for when things rattle apart. Stainless is compatible with aluminum and steel, won't rust, and is far stronger than the silly aluminum screws they use to assemble many parts on the exterior. Be ready to do field repairs, and that will substantially lower your frustration levels. USE A HAND SCREWDRIVER to finish driving screws into the tissue paper they call fiberglass and paneling. Nothing will ruin your day faster than seeing how easy it is to strip any screw in a camper.
Get some Gorilla Glue to hold screws in "wood" and LocTite for metal. Everything rattles apart over time...especially if you boondock.

So, this was the answer to a question you didn't ask...yet..but sooner or later you would have.

Thank you jimmoore for such good advice regarding "nonsense". Your comment about use of an impact driver for stab jacks is right-on. Somebody pulled out at 11:00 PM and used one, waking up the entire campground. Also your advice about using Gorilla Glue is right-on for anyone with any "xxxx-lite" trailer, since the wood they use in those things is made from sawdust and glue, and it strips if you look at it sideways.
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