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Old 08-25-2019, 09:52 PM   #1
Cldo1
 
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Where is the converter/fusebox located on 2013 Flagstaff 228 Mac

I recently purchased a 2013 Flagstaff 228 Mac and the previous owner had a blowout on the driver side wheel. The owner explained that some wiring had been wrapped around the axel and I have located a couple of the damaged wires. All exterior lights and blinkers work perfect. However, there is no power to the interior. I was wondering where the converter was located on this model? Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 08-26-2019, 07:33 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cldo1 View Post
I recently purchased a 2013 Flagstaff 228 Mac and the previous owner had a blowout on the driver side wheel. The owner explained that some wiring had been wrapped around the axel and I have located a couple of the damaged wires. All exterior lights and blinkers work perfect. However, there is no power to the interior. I was wondering where the converter was located on this model? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Welcome to the site!

Your converter on this model should be located directly next to your "fridge" and below the sink. It's a small brown square panel with a pop-down front door. Your 12v water pump switch and carbon monoxide detector are in the same general area.

Thankyou you-tube :

https://youtu.be/kc-memWU0Bc

When you open the door check that your 110v breakers are ON and you have no blown 12v fuses and go from there

Hope this helps
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:53 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cldo1 View Post
I recently purchased a 2013 Flagstaff 228 Mac and the previous owner had a blowout on the driver side wheel. The owner explained that some wiring had been wrapped around the axel and I have located a couple of the damaged wires. All exterior lights and blinkers work perfect. However, there is no power to the interior. I was wondering where the converter was located on this model? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I have a 2016 version of that. I think you might need to be a little more specific with your question.

There is a 110V system and a 12V system.

The 110V system is powered of course by the "shore power" cord. There is no 12V to 110V unless it was added after the fact. So no 110V shore power plugged in, no 110V power.

The 12V system has a switch that is depressed when the swing galley is in the "up" or operational position and not stowed. If that button is not pushed in or is defective in some way then you get no lights, no fantastic fan etc... Nothing 12V works save for the 3 way refrigerator. It looks like this:
https://www.hannarv.com/P/23471/Disc...eSinkDisconnec

As far as the 110V goes, check the breaker box panel to the right of the refrigerator. Push in the black cover a little bit and it should unhook from the latch so it can swing down. Check your circuit breakers. From left to right.... the first breaker is the shore power feed 30 amp breaker. The 15 amp one next to it feeds the 110V to 12V converter. The next "double" breaker has a 15 amp one for all the 110V power plugs on the camper and the rightmost one is 20 amp for the AC circuit. The AC breaker is there if you have one or not hence the "AC ready" status of the camper.

If you are not familiar with wiring and circuit breakers I don't know that I can recommend taking that breaker/110V to 12V converter box out and messing with it as it could lead to fire or serious electric shock!
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:14 AM   #4
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Thank you for the information. The issue that I seem to be having with the responses that I've gotten thus far is that these covers near the fridge are not there on my 2013 model 228. once I can locate the box I should be all set. And thank you for your concern, I'm an electrician actually. No power no problem right? Haha thanks again
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cupsz71 View Post
Welcome to the site!

Your converter on this model should be located directly next to your "fridge" and below the sink. It's a small brown square panel with a pop-down front door. Your 12v water pump switch and carbon monoxide detector are in the same general area.

Thankyou you-tube :

https://youtu.be/kc-memWU0Bc

When you open the door check that your 110v breakers are ON and you have no blown 12v fuses and go from there

Hope this helps
Thank you for letting me know! I think I may remember seeing something like this. Is it a soft brown panel on the bottom?
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:21 AM   #6
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Thank you for the information. The issue that I seem to be having with the responses that I've gotten thus far is that these covers near the fridge are not there on my 2013 model 228. once I can locate the box I should be all set. And thank you for your concern, I'm an electrician actually. No power no problem right? Haha thanks again
Though you have all been hinting near the fridge and I do remember seeing a soft brown rectangular panel located next to the fridge. Thanks again for all the advice!
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:32 AM   #7
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The electrical panel is in the video, its the black box near the floor to the right of the fridge. The smaller square access panel is the same color and finish as the wood cabinet itself and shouldn't be necessary to open/remove for what you want.

The electrical panel has a cover you can remove that gets you access to the circuit breakers and wiring. It is MUCH easier to get access behind it by removing the 4 mounting screws holding the entire electrical panel on and pulling it out than going through the small square access hole above it.

You haven't answered the question? Is the problem with the 12V system or the 110V system? The 110V system also has a GFCI protected plug as well as the breaker, on mine it is surface mounted on the same cabinet as the circuit breaker etc...that we have been talking about. It may just need to be reset as it has no light indicator it is tripped.

EDIT:
I just saw you saying you don't have those "covers" on yours?

Are you SURE about the year and model? it is printed on a sticker near the tongue of the trailer right on the frame. The model is also near the doorway to the camper.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:46 AM   #8
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To be completely honest with you I'm not entirely sure which system is damaged yet. I have not yet been able to hook up to utility just yet. My assumption is that the issues are going to be with the 12v system due to the fact that it seems to look like the wiring that was damaged does not appear to be romex or anything. It looks like #14 blue and white that I'm needing to trace so far. I beleive the shore power might still be okay. My whole thing is that I don't want to plug in shore power until I'm certain that part of the system is okay. And same for the 12v system. I may end up rewiring entire parts of the trailer myself just to be certain. Got myself into a bit of a project.
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Old 08-26-2019, 12:03 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Cldo1 View Post
To be completely honest with you I'm not entirely sure which system is damaged yet. I have not yet been able to hook up to utility just yet. My assumption is that the issues are going to be with the 12v system due to the fact that it seems to look like the wiring that was damaged does not appear to be romex or anything. It looks like #14 blue and white that I'm needing to trace so far. I beleive the shore power might still be okay. My whole thing is that I don't want to plug in shore power until I'm certain that part of the system is okay. And same for the 12v system. I may end up rewiring entire parts of the trailer myself just to be certain. Got myself into a bit of a project.
I assume those pictures are on the "Driver" side of the trailer?

That bundle of wires that is stuck together that appears green/red/black is for the rear trailer brake/turn/parking lighting. I wrapped all mine in plastic wire protector so I can't just look at it for you.

There should be some wires that peel off and go down to the axle for the electric brakes. One is the 12V from the 7 pin connector and one is the break controller signal wire.

All the 110V stuff is or at least should be inside the body. On the inside from the 110V plug at the sink it splits off 3 ways. One goes to the plug for the refrigerator that you can see when you take off the plastic access covers on the outside wall. Another goes towards the front of the camper and then across to the opposite side of the camper under that small "step" that sticks out from the front wall. It feeds the outlet on that side opposite the sink one. The 3rd split off wire goes out and along that same external refrigerator access area along the bottom/floor across that whole fridge access area and to the rear outlet in the camper. It also splits from that rear outlet and goes through the square channel created by the rear bunk "step" to the external outlet below where you would hang the grill/outside table.

There may be some 12V lines that ran underneath that powered the water heater? The roof lighting and fantastic fan wires should be visible just behind the driver side roof post. Standing outside, at that roof post look at the top of the wall on the aluminium wall "cap". There should be a hole with a black plastic liner/protector in it and 3 wires (maybe its two?) that go up the tent fabric. That is the 12V for the roof lights and fan.

If you have USB ports by the front and rear bunks like I do, I have not investigated what powers those ... if they are 12V wire runs or 5 volts out of the converter or what?

EDIT:

That top photo, the orange wire should be the SHORE power at the outside wall to the breaker panel. The yellow could be the refrigerator or one of the other 110 lines.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:11 PM   #10
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I just saw that you said you "had not been able to hook up to utility yet"...

If its because you don't have the RV 30 amp hookup, you can get an adapter for the 30 amp plug to standard 15 amp at Walmart for cheap. I would have expected one to be with the short power line that came with the camper.

As long as your not running an A/C unit you will be just fine. Like I said ALL the 110V in the camper is connected to a single 15 amp breaker. The only other thing drawing power in that scenario is the 110V to 12V DC converter.

When you add that AC unit is when you overdo it. My AC runs 20 amps leaving me 10 to work with. I can run a small TV, Microware and ice maker no problem with the AC on.

I also just realized I never really answered your original question... where is the converter. The big black breaker panel box is part of it. The breakers are about half of it, the converter is the other half and completely enclosed. Its what the fan on that chassis pulls air through.
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Old 08-27-2019, 06:16 AM   #11
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Converter on bulkhead beneath rear facing seat

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cldo1 View Post
Thank you for the information. The issue that I seem to be having with the responses that I've gotten thus far is that these covers near the fridge are not there on my 2013 model 228. once I can locate the box I should be all set. And thank you for your concern, I'm an electrician actually. No power no problem right? Haha thanks again
That's on my 2010 206ST Mac.

So obvious on mine suspect you would not have missed it but it's another possible location.
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:49 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by flyerdp View Post
I just saw that you said you "had not been able to hook up to utility yet"...

If its because you don't have the RV 30 amp hookup, you can get an adapter for the 30 amp plug to standard 15 amp at Walmart for cheap. I would have expected one to be with the short power line that came with the camper.

As long as your not running an A/C unit you will be just fine. Like I said ALL the 110V in the camper is connected to a single 15 amp breaker. The only other thing drawing power in that scenario is the 110V to 12V DC converter.

When you add that AC unit is when you overdo it. My AC runs 20 amps leaving me 10 to work with. I can run a small TV, Microware and ice maker no problem with the AC on.

I also just realized I never really answered your original question... where is the converter. The big black breaker panel box is part of it. The breakers are about half of it, the converter is the other half and completely enclosed. Its what the fan on that chassis pulls air through.
Thank you so much for all of your input. I haven't really had the opportunity to try and troubleshoot anything just yet. I don't think the original owner ever used shore power to be honest. So the only info I got was those pictures and he disclosed "there was a driver side blowout which affected some plumbing (I did see this, 2 tubes and an easy fix) interior lighting/plugs aren't working". When I bought it, it was late and I took it straight to the storage lot. Wanted to get as much info as I could before getting into. Expect to hear back from me haha. You have given me more info than google could that's for sure. Thanks again! More to come!
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Old 08-27-2019, 04:55 PM   #13
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I sure hope that is the model. That is what is on the title but I will definitely double check
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Old 08-27-2019, 07:27 PM   #14
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Thank you so much for all of your input. I haven't really had the opportunity to try and troubleshoot anything just yet. I don't think the original owner ever used shore power to be honest. So the only info I got was those pictures and he disclosed "there was a driver side blowout which affected some plumbing (I did see this, 2 tubes and an easy fix) interior lighting/plugs aren't working". When I bought it, it was late and I took it straight to the storage lot. Wanted to get as much info as I could before getting into. Expect to hear back from me haha. You have given me more info than google could that's for sure. Thanks again! More to come!
Good luck. Let me know if you need to know anything. Like I said the 110V circuits are all inside the chassis so I would expect if they didnt come on that the GFCI is tripped or a breaker.

Here are a couple of pics of my driver side tire. The blue wire and white wire are for the electric brakes. I am just speculating but its probably that the blue/white "shredded" wires in your image are those same wires. The pics are from either side of the leaf spring. There is a "loop" of wire on the outside of the leaf, some connectors and then they go up to the frame for ground and the wire harness for brake voltage.

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Old 08-28-2019, 03:04 PM   #15
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Thanks so much! I found a pic from the original owner. This is what mine looks like. Could this be the entry to the breakers? There is a rectangular panel the same color as the wood trim between the black cover and the fridge.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:21 PM   #16
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Thanks so much! I found a pic from the original owner. This is what mine looks like. Could this be the entry to the breakers? There is a rectangular panel the same color as the wood trim between the black cover and the fridge.
That black rectangle is the heater. I would say you do not have a 228D as I have seen layouts clear back in to the mid 2000's and they are the same as mine.

On the trailer frame, near the front on the Drivers side are a series of stickers. Go look at those.

Edit.. My mistake. I just found a 2013 layout that looks like yours.

You don't have a dinette that slides out do you? I was going to ask based on the photo with it hooked to the truck because I didnt see the black rubber for the slidout in the pic the other day but it was so far away I wasnt sure if maybe it was white rubber on yours.

See this: https://www.wilkinsrv.com/product/us...s-228-398102-7

Of course I just realized mine is a 228D and you did say 228 in the first post.. D for DUH I guess...

I'm going to say to check around that front Dinette seat or under? I would bet the shore power connector/wire won't be far from it. Possibly down low where your heals would face if you were seated in the dining table. Because my dinette slides out I don't think they would have put all that wiring in a place that moves.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:52 PM   #17
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Look for something that looks like this.
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Old 08-28-2019, 03:56 PM   #18
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Look for something that looks like this.
Okay you got it thank you! Heading over to the unit tonight.
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Old 08-29-2019, 03:45 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by flyerdp View Post
That black rectangle is the heater. I would say you do not have a 228D as I have seen layouts clear back in to the mid 2000's and they are the same as mine.

On the trailer frame, near the front on the Drivers side are a series of stickers. Go look at those.

Edit.. My mistake. I just found a 2013 layout that looks like yours.

You don't have a dinette that slides out do you? I was going to ask based on the photo with it hooked to the truck because I didnt see the black rubber for the slidout in the pic the other day but it was so far away I wasnt sure if maybe it was white rubber on yours.

See this: https://www.wilkinsrv.com/product/us...s-228-398102-7

Of course I just realized mine is a 228D and you did say 228 in the first post.. D for DUH I guess...

I'm going to say to check around that front Dinette seat or under? I would bet the shore power connector/wire won't be far from it. Possibly down low where your heals would face if you were seated in the dining table. Because my dinette slides out I don't think they would have put all that wiring in a place that moves.
Well. I found it. I have a 12V blue, yellow, grey and green not connected to anything coming out of the back of panel. Then all I have laying on the floor is the main negative for the battery, a green/white. I've got some work ahead of me I think
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Old 08-29-2019, 03:57 PM   #20
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Well. I found it. I have a 12V blue, yellow, grey and green not connected to anything coming out of the back of panel. Then all I have laying on the floor is the main negative for the battery, a green/white. I've got some work ahead of me I think
Does the front of it look like the one Flybob posted a pic of?
If so, was it somewhere hidden that you didn't see it?
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