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Old 04-29-2018, 09:03 AM   #1
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no 12 volts

I have a 2011 Puma 19FS.. Default breaker went out, unplugged for months, replaced default breaker and outlets working 120v.. my battery showed bad, so I unhooked from RV and tested the convertor, it is putting out 12v to the fuse panel.. 12v are going out of fuse panel at each fuse but I do not have lights, AC control panel, refrigerator control panel or radio.. what's the problem, manual shows no trouble shooting to solve..
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Old 04-29-2018, 09:17 AM   #2
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A few things to try.

I would start by replacing the battery with a good one.
Then check voltage at the battery with the TT connected to shore power. You should see something like 13.8V. If in the 12.6 volt range, then it is likely the reverse polarity fuses blew. These are the two large 30-40A fuses either in the distribution panel or on the back of the converter. You can also check the resettable breaker on the tongue. There should be a small button on the side to reset it. Many times connecting shore power with a very dead battery will result in blowing the fuses.
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Old 04-29-2018, 11:46 AM   #3
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thanks for taking your time to help.. I understand a battery is not necessary to get your 12v system working if it is plugged up to 120v, the convertor supplies 12v to the fuse panel and will keep battery charged if there is one.. I have 12v at the fuse panel without the battery wired to the panel and 12v going through all fuses.. that source is from the converter.. I've checked the fuse there at the tongue 30 amp one and it is good.. does a good battery have to be in the circuit for the 12v system to work.. thanks again for taking the time to help..
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:00 PM   #4
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The converter will supply 12 volts to your trailer without a battery connected. If you have a battery disconnect it usually has to be on for the 12 volts system to work even if you don't have a battery connected. Also as mentioned check the two reverse polarity fuse in the distribution panel if OK...30 or 40 amps...see picture (40 amp orange fuses).
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:38 PM   #5
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12v problems

thanks again.. not sure I understand your statement "If you have a battery disconnect it usually has to be on for the 12 volts system to work even if you don't have a battery connected."

are you saying there must be a good battery in the circuit for my system to work on 12v.. when I put the neg cable back on the panel the volts drop to six volts from the convertor, that's with the cables on a bad battery I have unhooked cables at the battery and the lleads from the battery on the 12v panel that say Neg. even Pos. I checked and there is 12v on the fuses you spoke about.. and they are good..
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Old 04-29-2018, 12:43 PM   #6
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You keep saying 12V. Is that the actual voltage you are measuring? The converter should be providing more than 12V if it is working properly.
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Old 04-29-2018, 04:01 PM   #7
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I'll check for sure, I think where the convertor leads screw into the panel I get 12 volts.. I'll get back on this sometime Monday.. thanks for your help..
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Old 04-30-2018, 11:50 AM   #8
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no 12v system in my 2011 Puma 19FS

I'll start over.. three months ago found no power to the trailer while storing with 120v hooked up.. I have trouble shot my 120v system and the GFI outlet was bad, replaced.. Have 120v on all outlets, micro wave and to the convertor.. No lights working in unit (maybe they are all 12v), the convertor with the battery removed from the system is putting out 13.5 volts to the fuse panel, all fuses are good in the panel and where the wires come to the panel I read 12v. the control panel for the A/C, refrigerator or the stereo is not working, I understand they are 12v..

It seems to me somewhere after all the 12v wires leave the fuse panel they have been cut or burn up or there is a breaker/fuse bad..

Help
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:00 PM   #9
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Have you checked those reverse polarity fuses? They are the red 40 amp fuses in the middle of the pic posted by fonzie in post #4.
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:31 PM   #10
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Yes.. if they were bad I should not have 12v at the wire leads going from the fuse panel would I?? I have 12v going out of my fuse panel and 12v on each side of those reverse fuses (mine are 30 amp)
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Old 04-30-2018, 01:08 PM   #11
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Have you physically tested with a meter all the fuses and for 12 volts (13.5V) on the load side of each fuse?

If so, and if they are all good and you have power on the load side, it sounds like a common ground problem. But, I would go to a few of the items and check for 12 volts at the lamp, fridge, radio, etc..

Or you could start at the power distribution center and check out from there. Be sure to check the ground at the panel and where it connects to the frame.
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:22 PM   #12
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thanks.. I think you are on to something, ground problem.. yes I have checked volts off of the panel and it is 12v across the board 1-11 connection terminals.. any thought about testing the ground at the panel??
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Old 04-30-2018, 02:50 PM   #13
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The best thing to do is physically look at the ground connections. There's a large one on the panel itself and then there will be one or more at several other places.

One thing you can try if you have one handy, is to install a battery and see if the devices start working. If they do then you know the ground between the power panel and frame is the most likely cause.
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Old 04-30-2018, 05:43 PM   #14
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thanks, I'll check that out tomorrow and get back with you..
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Old 04-30-2018, 06:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulenman View Post
the convertor with the battery removed from the system is putting out 13.5 volts to the fuse panel, all fuses are good in the panel and where the wires come to the panel I read 12v.
Help
Sorry but I need to ask again are you seeing 13.8V out of the convertor and only 12V into the distribution panel? Also the reverse polarity fuses are in both legs so if they are blown you may ground issues..
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Old 05-01-2018, 07:33 AM   #16
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I'm seeing 13.8 volts at the panel, all fuses are good.. all terminals out of panel have 12v. I'm going to investigate the ground more today and will get back with u.. thanks for the help
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:10 PM   #17
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I want to think all of you for your help, I did take one advise after all my testing and installed a good battery.. the manual indicated the convertor would run your 12v needs without a battery.. so I had the battery disconnected because it had tested bad.. In reality the convertor puts out 13.8 volts and will keep the battery charged. without a battery in the circuit the convertor will not run the 12v stuff in my unit.. Installed new battery and bingo everything 12v had power.. thanks all, I know where to go now on issues with my Puma Jerry
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:26 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mulenman View Post
I want to think all of you for your help, I did take one advise after all my testing and installed a good battery.. the manual indicated the convertor would run your 12v needs without a battery.. so I had the battery disconnected because it had tested bad.. In reality the convertor puts out 13.8 volts and will keep the battery charged. without a battery in the circuit the convertor will not run the 12v stuff in my unit.. Installed new battery and bingo everything 12v had power.. thanks all, I know where to go now on issues with my Puma Jerry
Was there more than one wire terminal connected to either post of the battery?
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:38 PM   #19
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the pos.cable from battery ran all the way to the fuse panel.. The neg. cable from battery was about 2' long and was bolted to frame.. the neg. cable that went to the fuse panel was bolted to frame just under the fuse panel but outside on the frame. the ground wire from the convertor connected beside the ground wire from the frame at the fuse panel and power side of the convertor connected to a terminal on the fuse panel..
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Old 05-02-2018, 03:58 PM   #20
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So now that all is good, what is the voltage on the battery when hook up to shore power and converter charging batteries?
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