Suburban water heater problem!

Dallen60 · 09-13-2015, 08:44 PM

A neighbor of mine has a suburban gas/electric water heater in his rv that will not heat water on electric. He changed the element and made sure the tank was full before he turned on the electric and turned the little on/off switch on and pushed the reset and waited for about 2 hours and still no hot water. Is there anything else he may have missed or is there a relay somewhere? Also the breaker is on and the fuse is good. Thanks

OldCoot · 09-13-2015, 08:50 PM

#1 is to make sure it is plugged into 110v. #2. Check power to the switch.

Dallen60 · 09-13-2015, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by OldCoot

#1 is to make sure it is plugged into 110v. #2. Check power to the switch.

Thanks! Well i do know it was plugged in to 110v but he never checked the switch.

**Flybob** · 09-13-2015, 08:59 PM

12V is required to control the WH so also check the DC voltage. If it is too low, it will not operate ( safety feature)

Rugged Brown · 09-13-2015, 09:00 PM

Experienced the same problem and changed the element, yada yada yada, and it turned out to be the switch.

**Herk7769** · 09-13-2015, 09:05 PM

Lots of ways the thermostat could be bad.

The next step is to remove the rubber cover and check for 120 volts at each terminal. 120 at the top, but not the bottom means a bad thermostat.

The connecting wire between the two bellows could also be broken.

**wmtire** · 09-13-2015, 09:05 PM

There is several things that could be bad. First, off you need to see at what point there is 120 volt AC power to. You need to take a multitester and start at the element, then work backwards...... or you can start at the power outlet for the water heater and work forward. Many times the water heater isn't even plugged in at an outlet behind the heater.

If working forward, then you will have power from the outlet and then check the little black switch. You will need to make sure there is power on both sides of the switch. You test each side of the switch by placing the hot probe on one terminal then the negative probe on a ground somewhere. Don't just touch the two probes to each terminal, as this won't show you power since it;s in the same one line.

If you have power on both sides of the switch, when testing the switch, then you move on to the hi-limit ECO thermostats. These are underneath the rubber covers you are pressing to reset. These are high temp emergency cut off and thermostats built into one housing. You test the same as the black switch, since it's all on the same line.

You have two of these, one for the 120 volt and one for the 12 volt propane side The 120 volt is the one on the left if I remember. If you have 120 volts on the top terminal, then move to the bottom terminal. few things to remember right here though. If the water is hot inside the tank, then the thermostat shuts off the power right here, so you won't have any power flowing to the bottom terminal if the thermostat is working correct. You need to make sure the water is cool in the tank to test. If you have 120 volt power coming out the bottom terminal then:

You move to the heating element. Here again you test for 120 volt power at it.

**wmtire** · 09-13-2015, 09:08 PM

Hey no fair guys. I'm on a mobile that takes forever to type and ya said everything I did before I get it typed up.

**Herk7769** · 09-13-2015, 09:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flybob

12V is required to control the WH so also check the DC voltage. If it is too low, it will not operate ( safety feature)

This is not applicable for the AC side.

Dallen60 · 09-13-2015, 09:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flybob

12V is required to control the WH so also check the DC voltage. If it is too low, it will not operate ( safety feature)

Thanks I'll relay the info.

Dallen60 · 09-13-2015, 09:19 PM

Thanks fellas I'll see how all this great info works out. It couldn't be much wrong with it.

bubbles · 09-13-2015, 09:56 PM

One thing that wasn't mentioned. If there is no 120 volts might want to check the circuit breaker (typically 15 amps) in the rv power distribution center to make sure it hasn't tripped. A complete reset could be in order.

Dallen60 · 09-13-2015, 10:04 PM

Thanks Bubbles i'll relay the info.

**Herk7769** · 09-14-2015, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flybob

12V is required to control the WH so also check the DC voltage. If it is too low, it will not operate ( safety feature)

My apologies; just when you think you have it all figured out, they come out with a model that changes everything.

IF the OP has a Suburban Model SW6DEL (it has a panel inside the camper that has switches for AC and Gas Water Heater), there is a need for solid 12 volt DC power to make the AC side work. The AC Switch actually is 12 volt DC that closes a relay to route 120 Volt AC to the AC side of the water heater.

Telstar · 09-14-2015, 12:03 PM

There is an electronic modal at the back of the heater. Mine was accessible under the kitchen sink. I found it had fallen to the floor and one wire was pulled off.

**Herk7769** · 09-14-2015, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Telstar

There is an electronic modal at the back of the heater. Mine was accessible under the kitchen sink. I found it had fallen to the floor and one wire was pulled off.

I believe that is the Control module for the gas ignition system and not anything to do with the AC portion of the heater. The DEL model uses just a relay that may or may not even be on the control board.

Telstar · 09-14-2015, 04:10 PM

Thanks for the clarification. I think it was the gas that didn't work and electric was fine.

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