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Old 03-29-2019, 06:10 PM   #1
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WaterPur KW1 water filter

I need some help on removing the clear housing to change the filter. I have a 2018 Palomino Compass 340RKC with the WaterPur KW1 whole house filter and can not get the clear filter housing to release. It is stuck tight and I'm afraid of breaking it to just change the filter cartridge. Any suggestions short of taking the whole thing out and replacing it with a different filter system that has less expensive cartridges? If I can get it off do I coat the threads with anything to prevent this from happening again? Thanks for any help.
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:18 PM   #2
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I need some help on removing the clear housing to change the filter. I have a 2018 Palomino Compass 340RKC with the WaterPur KW1 whole house filter and can not get the clear filter housing to release. It is stuck tight and I'm afraid of breaking it to just change the filter cartridge. Any suggestions short of taking the whole thing out and replacing it with a different filter system that has less expensive cartridges? If I can get it off do I coat the threads with anything to prevent this from happening again? Thanks for any help.
Be SURE you have dumped all pressure to the system. Even residual pressure will make that thing impossible to get off. Using the housing wrench will also help.
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:25 PM   #3
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Thanks Herk,
I'll turn the water off at the connection, open all faucets to relieve pressure and hope for the best. It sure is frustrating.
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:35 PM   #4
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Make sure you put some towels under it. You will find its almost impossible to not make a mess.
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Old 03-29-2019, 06:48 PM   #5
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Make sure you put some towels under it. You will find its almost impossible to not make a mess.
I you put it in a plastic grocery bag that doesn’t have any holes in it the bag will collect 99% of the water spilled.

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Old 03-29-2019, 06:50 PM   #6
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you already know to relieve the pressure. put one hand on the bottom of the canister and push up as you rotate the canister counterclockwise (from the bottom looking up). there are locking teeth at the top of the canister that help lock it so it does not come loose. that is why you have to push up to disengage the teeth. they also make a plastic wrench that slips over the canister and helps to rotate it. just relieve pressure, push up, and rotate and you will be fine.
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:07 PM   #7
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We are having the opposite problem...can't get the KW1 cannister and filter back on. How do you know when it is on tight enough? Do you hear a click when it is in place or just hand tighten it as far as you can?
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Old 03-29-2019, 07:12 PM   #8
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if you read about the problems some have had with filter holder breaking and flooding the camper, you would eliminate the inboard filter (and it's expensive cartridge) and go for something that is outside of the camper. just hook the inlet hose to the outlet to bypass the filter...

use something like this Camco filter from amazon...

place it int the water input line outside the trailer...
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Old 03-30-2019, 06:27 AM   #9
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do not over tighten. make it snug then pressurize the system and look for any leaks. the pressure will engage the locking teeth,

i have to admit that i would be concerned about any water filter on the inside that might leak and flood. our kw1 cartridge / canister is in the outside water bay and if it were to leak water would not get inside. i'm not defending nor attacking this filter, simply replying as to how to use it if that is what you have.
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Old 03-30-2019, 12:46 PM   #10
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Lubricate the canister threads and the seal ring with a small amount of white petroleum jelly (Vaseline) and it will be easy to remove in the future.

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Old 03-30-2019, 12:59 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by sweetsue51 View Post
We are having the opposite problem...can't get the KW1 cannister and filter back on. How do you know when it is on tight enough? Do you hear a click when it is in place or just hand tighten it as far as you can?
There are alignment tabs to show when the canister is in the correct position. (see photo and note the tabs on the canister and the housing are NOT aligned in the photo)

Once turned to the correct position, pull down on the canister to lock the teeth.

These FR1 filters get a bad rap cause folks don't understand how they work and wind up busting the locking teeth off from not pushing up on the canister before removing.

They DO NOT come apart and go together like conventional threaded filters.Click image for larger version

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Old 03-30-2019, 02:21 PM   #12
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I just finished removing my canister--for the last time. We winterize/de-winterwize at least twice a year, and opening up the compartment and trying to remove/replace/remove/replace/remove/replace the canister each time is just too much work. After taking the unit out, I noticed that my unit (Canister model RCS, for filter KW1) does not have the "teeth" or alignment tabs that others have talked about. Just an o-ring, and it has always required a hefty tug with the plastic wrench provided. Without the wrench, I don't think I could have removed it. And as others have said, be prepared for water or antifreeze spilling when you open it.

Taking the entire thing out was a little more work than I expected. I used a wrench to unscrew the fittings. Then I cut the fittings off the PEX pipe that I could crimp a union into the line. The top of the canister housing was screwed onto the frame with 3 screws, the middle one being the most difficult to get to. Once out, crimping the union in to the line was easy once I could get the tool into position (it's pretty cramped in there.) If I were doing it over, I'd just use a SharkBite junction and skip the crimp tool and union.

Now we'll use an external filter when connecting and filling the tank with water. Winterizing will be much easier.
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Old 03-30-2019, 02:42 PM   #13
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I just finished installing the GE GXWH20S filter in mine. I like the fact that it has a built in bypass valve.

I was surprised that it included a 90 day battery operated timer that can fit on the top of the filter or it can easily attached to any magnetic surface.

If you decide to put it outside make sure that you keep it out of the sun. Most of these units are intended to be mounted inside and out of the sun. The clear housing can be degraded by the sun.

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Old 03-30-2019, 11:46 PM   #14
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I just finished installing the GE GXWH20S filter in mine. I like the fact that it has a built in bypass valve.

I was surprised that it included a 90 day battery operated timer that can fit on the top of the filter or it can easily attached to any magnetic surface.

If you decide to put it outside make sure that you keep it out of the sun. Most of these units are intended to be mounted inside and out of the sun. The clear housing can be degraded by the sun.

Bob




So when you turn on bypass do you leave water in the filter canister all winter without antifreeze or is canister and filter removed?
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Old 03-31-2019, 06:45 AM   #15
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So when you turn on bypass do you leave water in the filter canister all winter without antifreeze or is canister and filter removed?
It will be empty.

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Old 04-02-2019, 01:16 PM   #16
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I agree with Kawac14, take out the filter and get an external one. I had that filter and, although it didn't leak, I had to be a contortionist to get it on and off. Now I have a nice filter that takes about 2 sec. to hook up. It sits in a bucket and the hose connections protrude out holes I made in the bucket. Hook up hose to water spigot, hook up to filter, hook other side hose up to trailer. When we tear down I unhook the long hose, coil up the other one, and set the bucket in the shower. The filters are a fraction of the price, I can choose what kind of filter I want, it isn't going to leak into the storage bay, and it's easy set up. I wrangled the water filter in the tt for 3 years before changing to an external one - should have done it right away the first year.
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