Half heated trailer.
 

So back in July I got a loan and purchased my 2014 321BHTS Surveyor. Everything seemed to be in working order. I noticed at some point (not sure if on the lot, or if it was after it was delivered to me), that when I turned the heater on, there isn't much in the way of warm air coming through the living room floor vent. I didn't think touch of it since it was July, and I wouldn't be using the heater until it started getting colder.

Now that its October (I started using the heater around the end of August, 1st of Spetember), I learned that there is no air coming out of the floor vent in my room, and I mean none at all. At this point in time, I am having to use a oscillating space floor heater to heat the living room/dining room. Oddly enough, for some reason, the bathroom, and my daughters bedroom in the back are fairly warm, and there is very noticable difference in temperature once you walk past the bathroom.

My dad seems to think the issue is the size of the tubing (I think its 2in diameter) as to why there iant much force to the air, but that honestly doesn't make much sense to me. Is there someone else who has had the same issue? The furnace is right by the bathroom, and my daughters room, but the force of the air is only slightly more forceful than it is in the living room.

Since I do not have a tow vehicle (my trailer was delivered to me), and this is our (my daughter and I) house, I am.not able to take it in to have it looked at. And because of where I live, mobile repair units won't come to where I live to look at it.

Does anyone have any input on this issue, and what I could do to fix it? I dont like using the space heater since it's in the way no matter where I put it. As a side note, the underbelly is all enclosed so I can't physically see what's going on with the heater vent tubes.

Air flow is a common problem, most of the time you will find the problem at the furnace where the duct is connected, or you have a crushed or hole in the duct feeding that area. First check at the furnace, then you would have to drop the underbelly to check the rest.

I was thinking that there may be a leak somewhere in the duct. I was afraid someone was going to say to open it up. I'm not sure how to go about getting to the underbelly qith out having to take down a stacker jack or two (where the underbelly cover is bolted is on the frame where the stacker Jack's go) down.

Would using a video snake be a viable alternative to opening up the up the underbelly? Had I known that there was no air flow getting to my room, I would have done so before I bought the stacker jacks to level my trailer.

I will try to post some pictures of the duct by the furnace in the morning, as well as pictures of the underbelly as is. I have a feeling it's going to be quite an adventure If I have to open it up 😂

Yes sure that might work, but more then likely it's a strap crushing the duct, that flex duct is very weak with just a plastic liner inside, you can puncture a hole it poking a camera through it, but check the connection at the furnace first. I have seen and heard of ducts falling off and not connected from the factory. I don't know what you are calling a stacked Jack, but you can cut around it and then tape it up when done by the jacks, very easy to cut and the rest is just drive screws holding it up, but no other way to find it.

Duct cleaning companies have the tools needed that can find where the problems are without tearing things apart. You may have to tear things apart once the problems are found, though.

Bruce

Rachael, please for the rest of us: Define "stacker jack". I'm in agreement with other posts in that you should find the location of the furnace, remove whatever is needed to actually see and be able to put your hand's on the furnace--while cool. Yes, it could be as simple as one of those infamous thin pieces of duct material was not connected properly at the factory, has come loose from the furnace, the duct material could be bent to the point that the duct work is not allowing air to pass through properly. I am not in the business of repairing RV's but I have put in many hours working on my own and friends of mine's RV's. Lift one of the registers (where the warm air should be coming out) they are nut usually attached-so easy to lift. Most of these floor type registers have a "boot" attached to the floor for the register to sit on and the warm air duct attaches to the boot. Using a good flashlight take a look to see IF the duct is actually attached to the boot. Most of the floor mounted register assemblies have a four-inch (4") hose attached to them but it could be a two-inch (2") hose. Take something, small rug or folded towel, to cover the floor registers except the living room register. Turn on the furnace and see how much air is coming from that register. Check each floor register individually using this same method and compare how much air can be felt from each register.

Just a thought but if you don’t want to fix this yourself you might want to call a heating and air conditioner person. Do you know if your underbelly is heated. Sometimes radiate heat from the duck work but sometimes forced air is used. I would probably use a video snake if I could find one. If you are any good as a carpenter you could install a electric fireplace in your bedroom. I personally like sleeping in a cold bedroom

I have attached a picture of the stacker jacks. They are basically used to stabilize the trailer better, rather than just using the 4 stabilizer jacks that the trailer comes with.

I really dont want to cut into the underbelly. It's all pretty well encapsulated, and dont want to compromise that. I appreciate the input, and would only do so as a last ditch effort to get it fixed. If I can find a solution to fix it with out having to do that would be awesome.

I have attached a picture of the stabilizer jack. Hopefully it actually shows the picture.

Pictures
 

For some reason, the pictures arent wanting to show up. I'm going to fiddle with things to see if I can get them up loaded.

Since I couldn't get the pictures to show up in this thread, I created an album, and put all the pictures there.

I didn't even think about covering the vents to see if there is a difference with the other vents. The only one I wouldn't be able to cover is the one in the bathroom. That one is just a piece of duct sticking up from underneath the floor, into the space below the tub. I am going to try that and see if there is a difference.

I understand your point, but if the problem is not at the furnace, scope or not that underbelly will have to come down, all I can say is get used to the Idea to repair it's coming down, NO way can you correct it without removing it, SORRY to say that , but that is realilastic in the RV world.

All the mobile places won't come to qjete I live because of where I live. I do although, know of a place in Camas, WA called Dan's Top Notch Heating Cooling that I have seen come into Stevenson, but do not know if they service RVs or not.

I honestly dont know if the underbelly is heated or not. Since this was a used trailer that didn't have a Camping Qorld sticker attached to it, they couldn't tell me much about it, other than it had been on the used lot for a while.

I can get a video snake at Home Depot, but the less expensive one only has a 3ft snake. The ones that have longer ones are considerably more expensive.

Do they make the felectric fireplaces pretty small? My bedroom is literally just my bed. I cant even fit between the end of my bed, and the wall that separates the livingroom from my room.

Rachael - If you drop the underbelly, you'll probably need to move a stack jack out of the way, but those jacks aren't attached to the trailer, are they? I thought those were freestanding, add on jacks - at least the ones my neighbor has are.

I'll have to call around, get prices, and see if there is any place that can come to me. I knew I would have to eventually do repairs, just dosnt think I would be looking at having to do them not even 4 months after getting my trailer. The earliest I would be able to pay someone to get it fixed, would be next year when I get my income.tax return. I appreciate your frankness.

You shouldn't need to start putting in fireplaces. I'd recommend the 3 foot scope. Or, maybe just a cell phone. Stick the phone down the vent and shoot a picture down the line. Start from there. If you see something blocked/crushed, then you know where you need to drop the underbelly to get it fixed. If not, then try the scope, so you can see a little further down the vent. Again, as stated, to fix it, you'll have to drop the underbelly. If you can't see anything with the 3 foot, then your best bet will just be to drop even more of the underbelly until you find it. An extra package of self-tapping bolts and some gorilla tape will be cheaper than the fancy scopes.

Where are you located at? If your by me I can help you out, don't want you to go through a winter without heat, let's see how we can help you.[emoji848]

I live in Carson, WA. Carson is located smack Dan in the middle of the Columbia River Gorge.

I tried putting my phone down there originally, but at the end of the boot, it's about a 90° angle, so want bale to get any pictures.

I saw your pictures. I bet the duct to your bedorom is crushed. Maybe a garden hose pushed in would reform it a bit.

Well for sure you better get it working for winter, you could get some tape, and cut some access holes in 3 sided and look that way, I'll bet it's a strap that is crushing it. If I was close I would help you, but Virginia is a little far...