Replacing Suburban Water Heater Anode
Any suggestions to loosen anode? It wont budge. I have correct size socket wrench. It's just not budging. Its been two years and I need to check it. Think my ex over tightened it. Help!
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They can be hard. You can spray some penetrating oil on it, and let it soak a little. Make sure you are using a 1 and 1/16th size six point socket. Have seen some people use a truck four way lug nut wrench with success. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b.../2494180?pos=4 |
If you have the correct size socket ,Get some leverage on that wrench! Now its personnel! Its gotta come out !
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PB Blaster penetrating oil or equivalent. Squirt in on and let it work. Do it again. Might take hours, but it will work.
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i would use penetrating oil. it might help some. but it is going to take some leverage. and wrap the treads with teflon tape when you put an anode back in. that will help it from rusting together. it will also help it seal without having to over torque it to seal.
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If you don't have a friend with forearms like Popeye, you need leverage! Put a 2 or 3 foot length of pipe over the handle of the wrench, and use that lever to double your strength.
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Impact wrench. Air or battery powered.
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Final instructions.....
1. 6 point 1 and 1/16” socket for exact fit. 2. Leverage extension to fit over socket handle. 3. Remember ......”righty tighty, lefty loosey” Good luck. |
Loosen Anode
Thank you everyone. Great ideas. I'll keep trying.
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You can also try heating up the water first. Make aure the tank is full and let it run for a bit to heat it up. Relieve the pressure and give it a twist while hot. Don't take it out, I'm just talking about breaking it loose. Wait till it cools to do that.
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If you use any penetrating oil, be sure to thoroughly clean the plug and threads completely or your water will taste terrible.
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A good penetrating oil and wait several hours.
Apply again and wait several hours. You might need a short extension to clear the outside wall; then use a breaker bar with the correct size socket. |
Ex? Another reminder of "Until death do us part"
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It may take two to break the thing loose. At the end of the first season while winterizing I had to get my neighbor to hold the 6inch extension so the socket would stay put while I pulled on the 24 inch breaker bar with both hands. PB Blaster on the hot tank and threads didn't help and there wasn't any teflon on the threads (first time draining the wh).
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If you have any pressure (or a vacuum) in the water lines, it could be increasing the resistance of the threads. Open the pressure relief valve before trying the wrench. If the resistance is still not allowing the release of the anode rod threads, use a rubber mallet on your wrench to break it free. A rubber mallet may reduce the chances of causing damage to your tools and components.
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Go down to your friendly hardware store and get a 3' length of 3/4" pipe to fit over your ratchet handle. While you are there pick up a small can of anti-seize so this never happens again. Order your anodes in pairs so you will always have one at the ready. While the anode is out, hose out the water heater. All the crystalline stuff will come rushing out. When it is clean, apply the anti-seize to the threads and tighten it "girl tight" without the breaker bar. You're good to go!
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Another thing to think about. Make sure you check the threads on the tank itself, good idea to chase the threads with a 3/4 pipe tap.
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Whatever you do release the pressure in the tank, open that little valve on the heater or open a faucet valve. Did i mention release the pressure? Oh and be sure to release the pressure
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You are not creating the threads just "chasing" them. :trink39: As for me, Id not use penetrating oil, for fear it would get into and contaminate my fresh water supply through the WH. As others have suggested, just use a LONG Cheater bar and insure the pressure has been released in the tank. When replacing the anode use Teflon Tape on the threads to seal them and help in removal next time. |
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