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Morgans Cove 09-17-2020 06:37 PM

What a Mess!
 
3 Attachment(s)
We have a 2015 Columbus 320RS, 36' long Fifth Wheel. After we sold our home, we lived in the camper for 5+ months before we found & purchased our home. While in the camper, we noticed water pouring from underneath. We called a mobile repair company highly recommended by the campground office. They pulled out all the underbelly coroplast & insulation & we waited a few weeks for it to "dry out". There were no leaks from tanks or piping they said. When they finally returned to put things back together, they replaced the insulation & taped the jigsaw puzzle of the coroplast & charged us a hefty fee. Our home is 34 miles from the campground. When we moved the camper to the house, we saw where the bottom was hanging to the ground. All the tape was falling off, pieces of coroplast & insulation down on the ground. I hope the pictures come through, because it looks like one problem is the thickness of the insulation they used. I also need to know where to get the proper materials to redo the whole underbelly. My husband is disabled, so our son-in-law will be doing the repairs. Any thoughts on what materials we need to dry this in?

cmysstailights 09-17-2020 06:45 PM

They all you use tape for repair. Biggest issue is the wind when towing. Try window door seal tape. Once it touches it doesnt come off.

TitanMike 09-17-2020 07:53 PM

Tape is good for sealing but not much good for support.

One way to support the plastic covering is to place some 1" X 2" wood strips from side to side where the plastic joint is located. Cut them long enough to reach from the vertical part of the frame on each side and sit on the top of the bottom frame flange.

Then secure the plastic sheeting to the wood strips using 3/4" sheet metal (or drywall) screws and fender washers (about 1" diameter with small "screw sized" holes in them. Center the wood on the seam and put screws in in pairs, one on one side, the other on the opposite.

If not enough room to maneuver the wood strips so they sit on top of the bottom frame flange just cut long enough to fit between the flanges themselves and lay a foot long piece of the same material on top of the flange on each side and secure with longer screws. The top strip will hold it all up.

When complete, THEN seal with tape. To make tape stick better wipe plastic down with Alcohol, Laquer Thinner, or Acetone to take any dirt and oils off the plastic. Tape will then stick a LOT better.

Jayhawker 09-17-2020 10:47 PM

1 Attachment(s)
When sealing the seams, I would recommend Gaffers tape. Much stronger and better adhesion than duct tape, plus no sticky residue when removed. :)

TowPro 09-18-2020 06:29 AM

I have had great luck with gorrela tape and I seal the edge with tube if black silicon rtv. but they make a special tape for this. I think it's called scrimshield tape? I just saw some on Amazon $27 for 108'

Flybob 09-18-2020 07:12 AM

If you continue to have problems with the cut sections, you might consider buying a roll and make it one piece.

Morgans Cove 09-18-2020 07:34 AM

Thank you everyone. I also feel all new corrugated material is needed because of the shape of the old from the hatchet job that was done. One company on line sells it, but doesn’t recommend it for use on anything not stationary! Sort of defeats the purpose. ALSO, how thick should the insulation be? AND would the metal struts I saw in another post (water tank belly) help? Would Tyvek tape work?

TowPro 09-18-2020 08:00 AM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...d-b31d6b1bfbee
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon....2ii6L._AC_.jpg



or kit with extra material https://www.amazon.com/Mobile-Flex-M...H98N1YPAEZ4NRP


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