Loosening the anode rod?
 

What can I treat the bolt with this week before my son shows up to put the new one in? Want to give it time to sink in. The whole area at the heater door is rusty. Since the rod area is exposed to the heat of the water heater, I don't want to risk a fire later using the wrong product. What about household oil, or WD40?

Try to find a product called.

Nut cracker.


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

wd-40 and an impact gun. I put Teflon on mine and use a breaker bar. You don't have to actually get it crazy tight. I take mine out to drain the tank after every trip, new Teflon and loosly screw it in until I'm ready to use it.

I do have WD 40 here and the teflon tape, so will spray lightly to contain it to the rod area a couple times this week. That will give it about 5 days to sink in before Mike comes to pull it out, he has some serious tools so hopeful not too much trouble. Thanks.

Loosening the anode rod
 

Nut Cracker or Liquid Wrench. The anode probably takes a 1-1/16 socket, on a short extension. All the talk about breaker bars sounds scary. The anode should NEVER be turned in that tight. Like others have said, just snug it up with the Teflon tape. Incidentally, I've found that anodes need to be replaced about once a season. Incidentally X2, never remove an anode without making sure that there's no pressure in the line; always pull the relief valve first! Beats getting wet.

Kdot :fall:

[QUOTE=kdot;990513]Nut Cracker or Liquid Wrench. The anode probably takes a 1-1/16 socket, on a short extension. All the talk about breaker bars sounds scary. The anode should NEVER be turned in that tight. Like others have said, just snug it up with the Teflon tape. Incidentally, I've found that anodes need to be replaced about once a season. Incidentally X2, never remove an anode without making sure that there's no pressure in the line; always pull the relief valve first! Beats getting wet.END QUOTE

......could it be it takes a 1 1/2 inch socket? I can't find a 1 1/16 socket.

I've always used a basin wrench to take my anode rod out and to just snug it up when installing. I also don't replace it as long as there is sacrificial material left. We are on season 4 on this rod.

A Suburban anode is 1 1/16th. Sears has that socket, as it's in most bigger socket sets I get there. If it's stuck, you want to make sure and use a 6-point socket and not a 12-point.

Also you can find that size in 1/2 inch drive 6 point impact sockets, as that used to be a common lug nut size on larger Ford trucks. You can also find 4 way truck lug wrenches with this size on it to get you better leverage and you can use 2 hands on it. Most all auto parts store will have the truck lug wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W11-4-W.../dp/B0002KNYVU

[QUOTE=DobeFanatic;990642]The Proper Socket is 1-1/16 6 point!:signhavefun: Youroo!! :us-flag-waving:

Thanks to all. I believe my son has a set of large sockets. Too bad they don't put this in the owners manual !

Mine also takes a 1 1/16 socket. I also use a breaker bar short extension to tighten. Later RJD:trink39:

It's pipe thread, is it not?

Teflon and snug.


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

Oh dear here we go.........

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "27 nights"

Lol


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

[emoji109] [emoji12]

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "27 nights"

Kroil penetrating oil also works.

Loosening the anode rod
 

DobeFanatic, there may be others, but most of the anodes I've seen have been
1-1/16. That size socket is not uncommon and, as someone said, you can probably get one at Sears. Also, be aware that the socket usually requires a 1-1/2 inch drive, so you'll need that size wrench and a short extension. They'll cost you a little bit of money but those three pieces probably ought to be in every camper's tool box!

Kdot

You can use a 1 1/8 socket but will need an adapter to use on the 3/8 drive set. Happens to be the same size that works on my tow dolly but most difficult to get a open/box wrench on the anode head.

If that area is that rusty, you might consider looking at your heating element also. It is under that black plastic cover just above and to the left of your anode. It requires a very special socket to get it out. A normal will not fit because the walls of the socket are too thick. It is a 1 1/2", and requires a thin wall socket. That is the hard part to find. You usually have order it from a RV parts dealer, or Amazon. I got mine from there and it is a Camco, Screw-In Element Wrench. It is designed to use a screwdriver to loosen the element. It is also good for using on your home water heater to check or change the element. The cost is minimum, about 8 - 9 dollars.

I have always used a set of shower valve sockets. They come is a large clip with a bar that goes thru the other end of the sockets and there is a 1 and 1/2 inch socket for the anode rod, also they are relatively light to carry with you.