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-   -   Loosening the anode rod? (https://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f221/loosening-the-anode-rod-93074.html)

DobeFanatic 09-21-2015 07:21 PM

Loosening the anode rod?
 
What can I treat the bolt with this week before my son shows up to put the new one in? Want to give it time to sink in. The whole area at the heater door is rusty. Since the rod area is exposed to the heat of the water heater, I don't want to risk a fire later using the wrong product. What about household oil, or WD40?

Kenny kustom 09-21-2015 07:33 PM

Try to find a product called.

Nut cracker.


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

fast murray 09-21-2015 07:34 PM

wd-40 and an impact gun. I put Teflon on mine and use a breaker bar. You don't have to actually get it crazy tight. I take mine out to drain the tank after every trip, new Teflon and loosly screw it in until I'm ready to use it.

DobeFanatic 09-21-2015 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fast murray (Post 990209)
wd-40 and an impact gun. I put Teflon on mine and use a breaker bar. You don't have to actually get it crazy tight. I take mine out to drain the tank after every trip, new Teflon and loosly screw it in until I'm ready to use it.

I do have WD 40 here and the teflon tape, so will spray lightly to contain it to the rod area a couple times this week. That will give it about 5 days to sink in before Mike comes to pull it out, he has some serious tools so hopeful not too much trouble. Thanks.

kdot 09-22-2015 07:39 AM

Loosening the anode rod
 
Nut Cracker or Liquid Wrench. The anode probably takes a 1-1/16 socket, on a short extension. All the talk about breaker bars sounds scary. The anode should NEVER be turned in that tight. Like others have said, just snug it up with the Teflon tape. Incidentally, I've found that anodes need to be replaced about once a season. Incidentally X2, never remove an anode without making sure that there's no pressure in the line; always pull the relief valve first! Beats getting wet.

Kdot :fall:

DobeFanatic 09-22-2015 10:08 AM

[QUOTE=kdot;990513]Nut Cracker or Liquid Wrench. The anode probably takes a 1-1/16 socket, on a short extension. All the talk about breaker bars sounds scary. The anode should NEVER be turned in that tight. Like others have said, just snug it up with the Teflon tape. Incidentally, I've found that anodes need to be replaced about once a season. Incidentally X2, never remove an anode without making sure that there's no pressure in the line; always pull the relief valve first! Beats getting wet.END QUOTE

......could it be it takes a 1 1/2 inch socket? I can't find a 1 1/16 socket.

AquaMan 09-22-2015 10:27 AM

I've always used a basin wrench to take my anode rod out and to just snug it up when installing. I also don't replace it as long as there is sacrificial material left. We are on season 4 on this rod.

wmtire 09-22-2015 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DobeFanatic (Post 990642)

......could it be it takes a 1 1/2 inch socket? I can't find a 1 1/16 socket.

A Suburban anode is 1 1/16th. Sears has that socket, as it's in most bigger socket sets I get there. If it's stuck, you want to make sure and use a 6-point socket and not a 12-point.

Also you can find that size in 1/2 inch drive 6 point impact sockets, as that used to be a common lug nut size on larger Ford trucks. You can also find 4 way truck lug wrenches with this size on it to get you better leverage and you can use 2 hands on it. Most all auto parts store will have the truck lug wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-W11-4-W.../dp/B0002KNYVU

youroo 09-22-2015 10:34 AM

[QUOTE=DobeFanatic;990642]
Quote:

Originally Posted by kdot (Post 990513)
Nut Cracker or Liquid Wrench. The anode probably takes a 1-1/16 socket, on a short extension. All the talk about breaker bars sounds scary. The anode should NEVER be turned in that tight. Like others have said, just snug it up with the Teflon tape. Incidentally, I've found that anodes need to be replaced about once a season. Incidentally X2, never remove an anode without making sure that there's no pressure in the line; always pull the relief valve first! Beats getting wet.END QUOTE

......could it be it takes a 1 1/2 inch socket? I can't find a 1 1/16 socket.

The Proper Socket is 1-1/16 6 point!:signhavefun: Youroo!! :us-flag-waving:

DobeFanatic 09-22-2015 11:04 AM

Thanks to all. I believe my son has a set of large sockets. Too bad they don't put this in the owners manual !

aceinspp 09-22-2015 11:08 AM

Mine also takes a 1 1/16 socket. I also use a breaker bar short extension to tighten. Later RJD:trink39:

Kenny kustom 09-22-2015 11:20 AM

It's pipe thread, is it not?

Teflon and snug.


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

TURBS 09-22-2015 11:23 AM

Oh dear here we go.........

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "27 nights"

Kenny kustom 09-22-2015 11:26 AM

Lol


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

TURBS 09-22-2015 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kenny kustom (Post 990718)
Lol


2008 F350 CCSB V10
2016 Sabre 36QBOK

[emoji109] [emoji12]

TURBS
08 duramax tuned n modded
2011 32bhok Sabre
2015 camping "27 nights"

Harkerr 09-22-2015 11:52 AM

Kroil penetrating oil also works.

kdot 09-22-2015 12:12 PM

Loosening the anode rod
 
DobeFanatic, there may be others, but most of the anodes I've seen have been
1-1/16. That size socket is not uncommon and, as someone said, you can probably get one at Sears. Also, be aware that the socket usually requires a 1-1/2 inch drive, so you'll need that size wrench and a short extension. They'll cost you a little bit of money but those three pieces probably ought to be in every camper's tool box!

Kdot

BobHanke 09-22-2015 12:13 PM

You can use a 1 1/8 socket but will need an adapter to use on the 3/8 drive set. Happens to be the same size that works on my tow dolly but most difficult to get a open/box wrench on the anode head.

dgibbs1955 09-22-2015 12:53 PM

If that area is that rusty, you might consider looking at your heating element also. It is under that black plastic cover just above and to the left of your anode. It requires a very special socket to get it out. A normal will not fit because the walls of the socket are too thick. It is a 1 1/2", and requires a thin wall socket. That is the hard part to find. You usually have order it from a RV parts dealer, or Amazon. I got mine from there and it is a Camco, Screw-In Element Wrench. It is designed to use a screwdriver to loosen the element. It is also good for using on your home water heater to check or change the element. The cost is minimum, about 8 - 9 dollars.

clr 09-22-2015 01:07 PM

I have always used a set of shower valve sockets. They come is a large clip with a bar that goes thru the other end of the sockets and there is a 1 and 1/2 inch socket for the anode rod, also they are relatively light to carry with you.


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