340 ftlb torque for WDH bolts holy cow

[Bedlinedf250]

Originally Posted by ard58

You don't know any diesel mechanics, or heavy machine mechanic's.

I agree. Anyone that has been around big trucks knows a semi's tires need to be torqued to almost 500ft pounds. Just find a shop that does big rig and tractor tires. Every city and town has one or more.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

I have to disagree here. The company I worked for had a torque wrench that would go to 1000 ft lbs. Total length of the wrench was 10".




Oh, I forgot to mention it was a hydraulic torque wrench.

I'm sorry that the 1000 ft lbs was incorrect. The smallest 3/4 drive hydraulic has an output of 1440 ft lbs (1909 Nm), the largest 2-1/2 drive is 18843ft lbs (25547 Nm). They come with a chart stating how much pressure equals ft lbs of torque. Impressive.
https://www.enerpac.com/en-us/hydrau...hesSquareDrive

[Reprise]

I have a 5:1 torque multiplication device. Bought it when I got the HD pickup and found the torque spec for the front brake caliper bolt was 221 ft/lb.

Since my 1/2" drive wrench only went to 225 ft/lb, and it's the least accurate at the extremes of its range, I got the multiplier, after picking up a 3/4" drive torque wrench and finding it was impractical to use for the truck, due to its size.

I also knew I'd need it for the ball / hitch for the trailer, so it wouldn't be a wasted purchase.

With the given example of 340 ft/lb, a setting of 68 ft/lb on the torque wrench with the device attached gives the specified torque.

I got mine at Amazon for about $60, IIRC, although I don't see it listed now.
It works via gear reduction, and is rated to about 425 ft/lb - good enough for my needs.

[MarkDNC]

I'm pretty sure the OP has either died or started a new hobby by now.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by MarkDNC

I'm pretty sure the OP has either died or started a new hobby by now.

Not nice....but funny

[gunther1369]

Nope not dead just busy working, thanks for all the ideas, the bolts that mount the ball assembly to the shank is the ones I'm torqueing down, the ball is already installed from the factory. I'm going to try the ideas from the posts, the bolts are horizontal with nylon locking nuts and I already torqued them to 150 lbft so any thing I do will torque them more.

[Reprise]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

Not nice....but funny

Personally, I didn't find the comment humorous, at all.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Reprise

Personally, I didn't find the comment humorous, at all.

It’s only funny if you follow the forum closely. He asks a simple question and gets a ton of ideas...some pertain and the rest don’t. Happens daily. The the OP gets scared off.

[Reprise]

Originally Posted by Iwannacamp

It’s only funny if you follow the forum closely. He asks a simple question and gets a ton of ideas...some pertain and the rest don’t. Happens daily. The the OP gets scared off.

I'm glad I resisted the temptation to flame away, and thank you for the civil answer.

I had surprisingly (?) noticed no one really mentioned a mechanical multiplier in five full pages (to your point). Figured it was worth a mention.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Reprise

I'm glad I resisted the temptation to flame away, and thank you for the civil answer.



I had surprisingly (?) noticed no one really mentioned a mechanical multiplier in five full pages (to your point). Figured it was worth a mention.

You are welcome.

Patrick Swayze says “Above all be nice”. I loved Road House.

I try to not be smarty or snooty. There is enough of that already.
No. 1 We are all humans and sometimes have different ideas.
No. 2 There are moderators and I have already been in trouble.

Lastly. Thank you for responding back.

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by NJKris

You guys all beat me to the stand on it trick. Turn hitch 90 degrees in receiver so breaker bar is rotating in vertical plane, then stand on it while you support yourself somehow so it doesn't suddenly slip or something. Downward weight (your weight on one foot) x distance in fractions of a foot = torque in foot lb. (ex: 350 ft.lbs torque, divided by my weight of 250 lbs, means I would have to put my weight on the breaker bar 1.4 feet from the head of the socket/nut) Obviously, you would need a breaker bar at least 1.5 feet long, longer would be a little safer.

I get the math, and it looks right to me. However, I'm not clear on exactly where my foot should go. Centered at 1.4 feet? Or one side or the other of the line. Please forgive me as I only minored in math.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by bedubya

I get the math, and it looks right to me. However, I'm not clear on exactly where my foot should go. Centered at 1.4 feet? Or one side or the other of the line. Please forgive me as I only minored in math.

In theory, centered on the desired distance, in this case, 1.4 ft.

In practice, don't sweat it. Either side of the line isn't going to change it that much. Many torque requirements are actually given as a range, as in 80-90 ft-lbs.

For example, my Silverado says "140 lb-ft" but my Mazda says "65-87 ft-lbf" (where "f" is for force, as opposed to weight; a weight may apply a force, but they aren't always equal, as alluded to previously by NJKris).

Note that "lb-ft" and "ft-lb" aren't really the same thing, and ft-lb shouldn't be used when talking about torquing bolts, but people (and car companies, see above) do use them interchangeably.

https://www.enginelabs.com/news/torq...ot-pounds-one/

[juice5]

Torque it to 160 lbs....then drill 1/8 hole through nut and bolt....then a no 7 bit...then a 1/4'' tap...run a 1/4 20 brass or steel screw all the way through with nut n lock washer on the other end. I used brass as I change ball
sizes on occasion

[swj]

Lowes sells a Craftsman 250 lbs torque wrench, torque and then give it a 1/2 turn,

[swj]

$73

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by NJKris

Aviation Electrician here, and no stranger to a torque wrench either. To be precise, if my earlier explanation was not clear, A car mechanic applies a force of 800 N to a wrench to loosen a bolt. She applies the force perpendicular to the arm of the wrench. The distance from the bolt to her hand is 0.40 m. What is the magnitude of the torque applied?
Answer: The angle between the moment arm (the arm of the wrench) and the force is 90°, and sin 90° = 1. The magnitude of the torque is 320 N∙m. In our case, we are using foot pounds, not Newton meters, which would be the metric equivalent. Therefore, using Walholler's stature at 280 lbs, and desiring a torque of 340 ft.lbs, he would have to apply his weight on the wrench at 1.2 feet from the nut, or solving for inches, 14.4 inches away from the center of the socket/nut if you prefer. Not hop up and down on it, just smoothly applying the weight. Torque wrenches are simply a tool to enable you to apply the same force, in situations where you might not be able to apply force in this way, such as if swinging the wrench in a horizontal plane, obviously you would not be able to apply the force accurately.

Good answer Kris.


Geoff
.

[jaybe]

I took my hitch to a heavy equipment repair shop (Liberty Equipment) to get it torqued. Not a major charge.

[andymil]

There could be 10 to 20 percent error using a torque multiplier.

“Gear train within multiplier has natural frictional loss. For normal requirements, a loss factor of 10% to 20% may be used.”

SR Torque Multiplier | Wesco Production Tools Ltd.

[kraut]

Originally Posted by gunther1369

i have a husky tc WDH and im in the process of setting it up and it calls for the bolts that mount the ball head to the shank to be torque to 340 ftlb, I only have a tc wrench that is 150 lb and I called every auto shop and camper dealer in my area to see if they can torque it for me and nobody has one that high, so what am I to do...…?

Have you tried an Heavy Equipment shop that works on bulldozers and Off road trucks. They more than likely have a 300+lb torque wrench and socket. It will be a 3/4 inch torque wrench and 3/4 inch drive socket. Or check into a tool rental place and see if they have a torque multiplier, Its a gear driven unit that you put your normal torque wrench on on one end and the socket on the other. It will specify the amount of torque it multiplies. Example 10 ftlbs on your wrench will be 100 ftlbs through the multiplier. Harbor Freight has a 300lb torque wrench for about $80

[Rockinh]

If the hitch came from Husky with the ball attached, it is already torqued to the correct spec. If not, there are 2 correct specs. If your ball has a 1" shank, it should be torqued to 240 ft-lbs. If it is a 1 1/4 shank, it is 360 ft-lbs. It is in the literature from husky. However, in your original post, you said "bolts". If you are referring to the 2 bolts that hold the ball head to the shank, they are 3/4 inch, and should be torqued to 260 ft-lbs. Just a note, on the heavy duty hitch, the head is attached with pins, no nut, basically the same pin that holds the shank into the receiver. That is how the pintle hitch is fastened, they dont care if that rattles. The 2 bolts are used on the WDH to adjust the angle and so it doesnt rattle going down the road.

link to literature https://www.huskytow.com/wp-includes...structions.pdf