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Old 07-17-2019, 11:27 PM   #21
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I understand your frustration, my friend. Please believe me when I tell you this; if you supply all the information these fine, experienced, and knowledgeable rvers are asking of you, your swaying problem will be solved. No one is saying you did anything wrong, they simply need more info to help you cure the probllem. I don't post very often, but I read this forum almost daily and learn something new almost daily.
Good luck.
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Old 07-18-2019, 01:13 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rugman1952 View Post
I understand your frustration, my friend. Please believe me when I tell you this; if you supply all the information these fine, experienced, and knowledgeable rvers are asking of you, your swaying problem will be solved. No one is saying you did anything wrong, they simply need more info to help you cure the probllem. I don't post very often, but I read this forum almost daily and learn something new almost daily.
Good luck.
Nice post. Rugman hit it on the head. While it's frustrating when something you spend a lot of $$$ on for enjoyment causes you problems, there are very few problems I see posted on these forums that someone doesn't come up with a solution.

Sway is generally caused or contributed to by one of the following:

1) Bad tow vehicle match with the trailer
2) Too much weight in the rear of the trailer which reduces the tongue weight below an acceptable level (Usually 12%-15% for a bumper pull trailer).
3) Less than ideal tires for the job (Passenger or soft sidewall tires meant for a nice ride that flex too much and add to trailer sway).
4) An improperly adjusted WDH.

If you will take your rig to a scale and pay a few bucks to get weights and provide the info some of the folks trying to help you have asked for, I'm sure you'll be a happy camper before long.

Here is a link to some great reading that will help you understand much of the information you might need in figuring this solution out.

https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/f...d/17730894.cfm
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:38 AM   #23
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OP....

I know your frustrated, but you have to do some more research on what it is your discussing with everyone. I know you want instant answers, but your going to have to help us help you. When someone asks a questions if you don't know what it has to do with your situation don't argue with them, google it or ask what it has to do with your camper, your obviously new to campers, and there is a lot of terminology and differences between a camper trailer and an every day trailer.

I did a quick google of your camper and what I found was-

Length 33 ft 11 in
Ext Width 8 ft 1 in
Ext Height 10 ft 8 in
Int Height 0 ft
Hitch Weight 686 lbs
Gross Weight 7686 lbs
Dry Weight 4871 lbs
Cargo Weight 2815 lbs
Fresh Water Capacity 46 gals
Grey Water Capacity 38 gals
Black Water Capacity 28 gals


Every thing there is a variable that plays into how the camper pulls. They are claiming 2815 cargo capacity. That doesn't exactly say how they want the weight distributed. It's not really an exact science (it can be, but for most of us it isn't) on how to locate the weight in the trailer.

Why everyone keeps mentioning the WDH is because your trailer is designed to have 686 lbs (from what I found on a google search) on the hitch, if your weight is too far back it may be making that weight lighter than what it should be. Thus creating the "tail wag" that is quite dangerous on the road. That is why everyone keeps telling you to take it to a scale house empty and then with the bikes. Make sure to get the hitch weight each time. You might find yourself surprised that with your bikes in the back it's taking a lot of weight of the tongue.

This can be helped by lowering the hitch to truck point. It will help shift the weight from the back towards the front, or like many have said, try to get more weight up front, IE: if your tanks are on the front of the trailer you could fill your tanks with water to help get weight back on the tongue. Or if there is any way to get your bikes further forward, that can help as well.


Like everyone said, get us some weights and maybe we can further help you.

Information you could provide that would help everyone help you-
bike weights (each one),
empty weight of entire trailer and tongue weight,
loaded weight of entire trailer and tongue,
information on what your towing with- we still don't know what your pulling with, is it a lifted truck, small suv, each of those is a variable in how your camper will pull as well!


Good luck...
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Old 07-18-2019, 06:55 AM   #24
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One more thing. Someone mentioned lowering your blue ox trailer hitch, and you weren't sure what they were getting at.

If your hitch looks like the one I posted in the pic below, then you can adjust the ball height up and down. Typically you want your camper close to level with maybe a little slope down in the front, but to help get your weight evened out better you may have to lower the hitch even more. However, I dont know exactly which hitch you have.
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Old 07-18-2019, 07:39 AM   #25
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Ditto.

Not enough information.

Does it tow ok without a load in the trailer?

Sway will hurt you eventually if you tow enough. Stay under 50 mph. Stay out of rain.
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Old 07-19-2019, 05:56 AM   #26
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This thread is losing traffic, but I am still wrapping my head around this.

OP, you mentioned before you have the sway control. What sway control do you have. Have you thought about putting a second sway control on your camper. I know a lot of people will tell you it's unnecessary. However, I have 2 for my camper. I don't normally use both, but if I'm going to be driving down major highways or on windy roads I run both if only for extra safety. Running a second sway control could help as well.
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Old 07-19-2019, 07:51 AM   #27
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2815 lbs is your allowable cargo weight in the trailer. As with all set ups, disribution of that weight is key and controled by owner. TV capability factors in the sway factor; setting up of WDH redistributes some of the weight. Many people here more experienced than I but you gotta give em the info needed to help you.
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:24 AM   #28
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:26 AM   #29
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So do I want the chain tighter or looser. I was told by Blue Ox to have 3 exposed links showing. What do you expect? How many. # links is pretty tight Thanks
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Old 07-20-2019, 06:29 AM   #30
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This is the exact Hitch
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Old 07-20-2019, 07:12 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by manofsteel1 View Post
So do I want the chain tighter or looser. I was told by Blue Ox to have 3 exposed links showing. What do you expect? How many. # links is pretty tight Thanks
To the OP.... Everyone is suggesting that you take your trailer and weigh it. Myself included. That is the first step. Does the trailer / trailer combo sit level when loaded??

Toyhaulers are the hardest to get right when it comes to a WDH as the are more variables.

I am not familar with your exact hitch but owning six different trailers, weight distribution and hitch head height can make all the difference in handling.

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Old 07-20-2019, 07:19 AM   #32
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Not sure of WDH is. How would I possibly redistribute it? What is the allowable weight designed by Forest River which no one is capable to give me. What does a golf cart weigh? That probably what they first designed it for. My 2 bikes are only 450lb each.
Are you positive that your bikes only weigh 450 lbs each???? A golf cart weighs approx. 600 - 900 lbs. Some more, but that is an estimate as there are variables.

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Old 07-20-2019, 08:45 AM   #33
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My take.

I assume the truck is set up to max tow. 4wd. Crew cab.

Assume the trailer is towing level.

Max weight less than #7700. Weight on hitch should be around 12%. About #900 or more.

Therefore. You are likely near the max payload of the truck.

You are at the beyond max trailer length. The sail area of this trailer would be an issue in winds. The weigt of the rear of the truck cannot dampen sway as much. There is no SAE spec for this. Engineering 101. Lots of 1/2 ton trucks with trailers this long complain about it.

I am not aware if the Ram has built in anti sway.

I would want to get the actual hitch weight. Concerned if it is below #700.

These toy hauler trailers are tough to load right. Lots of complaints.

Does the hitch have anti sway stabilization. My 2500 Ram diesel has built in anti sway control. But, often not enough.

I would get the hitch weight.

Do some testing at higher hitch weights. Might not be possible. Fill water tanks? The cat scales charge about $15 to weigh. They have some type of reweigh deal for free. I would fill it with water if the tank is forward. Weigh. Empty tank. Reweigh.

I would consider a really fancy hitch like the Pro Pride etc.

Assume dealers are stupid.
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Old 07-20-2019, 08:53 AM   #34
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Sounds like a typical dilemma faced by toy haulers, too much weight behind the axles.
Maybe the OP can move the axles back a bit on the frame. That will transfer more weight to the tongue.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:29 PM   #35
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What others have said about the weight distribution. I have always wondered how toy haulers are set up, especially with side-by-sides.

Here is a great example video from U-Haul.
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Old 07-22-2019, 06:51 PM   #36
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One other thing to look for - what torsion bars did they sell you with the BluOx? The hitch you have is an excellent WDH but it can come with bars designed to work with a tongue weight as low as 350# and up to 2000#. If you don't know the tongue weight, you need to find that out so you can ensure you have the right bars. As for adjusting the chain - on the Blue Ox site they give instructions saying approximately how many links to have "past the catch point". In the picture I uploaded, the free end of the chain (circled) should be that many links from the spot on the cam that catches the chain. However, you adjust that amount to properly redistribute weight to the front wheels of your tow vehicle (and some back to the TT axle). Again, the Blue Ox website gives instructions on how to do this at home but going to a CAT scale is a much more accurate way to get it right.

One last thought, you can get a rough tongue weight at home in your driveway (if it's relatively flat) using a sturdy board, two short lengths of pipe (PVS works) and a bathroom scale. Look here for instructions I actually used a 2X10 and my tongue jack for our TT and it was about 750#. Again, not perfectly accurate but gets you in the ball park - especially for bar size.

Edit: Also note the amount of bow in the bars - the BO website says that should be about 2"
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:31 PM   #37
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Please watch the video demo. This will explain the overloaded tail dynamics.
https://youtu.be/w9Dgxe584Ss
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:37 PM   #38
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We have a 31’ Freedom Express toy hauler. The hitch weight with no bike is 950 lbs. with our 1400 lb trike it is 625 lbs. we had the same issue with trying to set the hitch up for one configuration and it wouldn’t work for the second. Couple of things we have done are:

- we installed a Husky Center Line TS hitch
https://www.huskytow.com/product/husky-centerline-ts/

- we installed a set of AirLift air bags w/ on-board compressor. We can raise or lower the rear of the truck to adjust for the changing tongue weight.
https://www.airliftcompany.com/p roducts/air-springs/loadlifter-5000-ultimate/

- run maximum air in your trailer tires

The combination of all three have reduced the amount of sway substantially
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Old 07-22-2019, 08:59 PM   #39
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Are there two tie-downs up front? I have a 26 RR set up similar to what your floor plan is. I had to move my Road King forward along my cabinets to get the weight more over the axles. I used a stand/ wheel chock from Harbor Freight (sku 97841,61670) with a board attached to it so that the rear tire hits it at the same time the front tire hits the chock. You may have to put the bikes in line instead of side by side.
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Old 07-22-2019, 09:16 PM   #40
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Lots of good suggestions .. I am a little surprised that you have this problem .. I have the next size up .. 26RR and load my GOLDWING in the back with very little sway.. Not much even when the big trucks pass me.. That said i have a Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution w/ 4-Point Sway Control hitch The 12,000#

When i have the bike in the back I am careful to try to make sure that any variable load gets moved as far front as in can .. things like the 13 x 13 canopy and other stuff... the Equal-i-zer Weight Distribution w/ 4-Point Sway Control hitch has BUILT in ANTI SWAY that I think helps a lot ..

As you can see I am pulling with a F 150 not a lot of reserve capacity I am going down the road at about 13,500 Lbs GCVWR I have been playing with a
Haulgauge Mobile Tongue Weight And Payload Scale from E trailer ($100) check it out it may help you with the variable wt of the bikes in the back ...

Good luck
Bob
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