2018 vs 2019+ battery rack?

[chriscowles]

In viewing online sales videos I see that 2018 (only) Mini-Lites had a battery rack across the top of the frame but the 2019+ returned to the standard rails being welded to the bottom of the frame. The result of the latter design is that your batteries are limited in size to whatever you can fit between the frame rails. I believe that means group 24, if you want a pair.

Does anyone know why they switched back? Is there enough room behind the propane tanks and below the convex front wall to add a rack across the top? I want to carry my Honda 2000 and 2 group 27 batteries there if they'll fit, and if that doesn't put too much weight on the tongue. (I would have to devise or procure some method of securing them.)

I'd rather not mount the generator on the rear bumper for bumper stress and trailer balance reasons. I also prefer to not use the stands that elevate it above the propane tanks. That seems to me to have too many exposed bolts that a thief could use to disassemble it and walk away.

Who has mounted their generator on the front frame? I've seen discussions of locking battery boxes (e.g., >this topic<) but don't know if they're big enough to include the generator (that example is not) while being small enough to not be interfered with by the curve in the front wall.

Shared wisdom and references to other threads are welcome. I've searched and found some, but I don't find specific details about size or how it fits with the front wall. A design that allows me to run it in place would be ideal.

Thanks

[01tundra]

Not sure why, but I can confirm on our 2020 the battery rack is recessed.....or make that "was" recessed

[67L48]

Very interesting, indeed. I have a 2018 and it has the fairly large "platform" there. It has a group 24 battery in a box and then a whole bunch of area that I simply haven't used for anything -- I could probably fit 6 group 24 batteries on that tray. For irrational reasons, I like it and think it's a good idea ... but in nearly 2 years of ownership, I haven't used the space and can't find a way that I would. Anything I think I might strap down on that space is just a lot easier to throw into the bed of my truck.

I didn't know it went away until reading this post. Perhaps is was an expense that wasn't valued. I think we get skewed by the super-RV people on this forum. In reality, the average RVer isn't setting up multiple battery bay.

I also wonder if this allowed them to move everything back toward the front of the trailer. I know that with mine, I cannot lower the tailgate of a truck when hitched. It will hit the electric jack. So, with things compressed farther back toward the trailer front, maybe this allows more space for a tailgate?

Here is a stock photo online that shows the relative spacing of the 2018 with the larger "wire mesh tray." It's not as compressed or compact as the photo above:

[WoodLark-SC]

I have a 2019 2503S, and my rack is on top just like the one in the previous post. I mounted a truck bed box on top of the rack (had to cut of the end angles) and store the battery and tools in it. It locks so that helps protect my battery against theft.


A problem with RV manufacturers is inconsistency. There is no sharp cutoff from one year to another. If they have leftover 2018 parts, they use them on "2019" trailers.

[Less is More]

I have a 2017 and it also is very tight for two batteries. I managed to get two 6 volt golf cart batteries and boxes in by cutting the handles off one side of each box. Its easier to get them in by pulling the propane tanks off.

[chriscowles]

I couldn't mount 2 group 27 batteries in trolling battery boxes within the frame on my former 2014 Shamrock. I built a frame using slotted angle iron and screwed it to the top of the trailer frame. That's why I was pleased to see that FR did it for me. At least, for a brief time they did.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by WoodLark-SC

I have a 2019 2503S, and my rack is on top just like the one in the previous post. I mounted a truck bed box on top of the rack (had to cut of the end angles) and store the battery and tools in it. It locks so that helps protect my battery against theft.


A problem with RV manufacturers is inconsistency. There is no sharp cutoff from one year to another. If they have leftover 2018 parts, they use them on "2019" trailers.

Does the outwardly-curving front wall interfere with opening the box?

[chriscowles]

I'm pleased to learn 2020 Mini-Lites now come with a factory-installed 2" receiver below the back bumper. I assume it will bear enough weight to mount a small generator. That solves the generator issue.

For batteries, I'll do the same as I did on our hybrid, bolting together a rack made of slotted angle iron. I'll attach it to the top of the front frame with self-tapping screws.

[01tundra]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

I'm pleased to learn 2020 Mini-Lites now come with a factory-installed 2" receiver below the back bumper. I assume it will bear enough weight to mount a small generator. That solves the generator issue.

For batteries, I'll do the same as I did on our hybrid, bolting together a rack made of slotted angle iron. I'll attach it to the top of the front frame with self-tapping screws.

Wonder if it's just certain models? Our 2020 2109s doesn't have a receiver hitch.

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

Wonder if it's just certain models? Our 2020 2109s doesn't have a receiver hitch.

I base my information on YouTube marketing videos, one from Haylett RVs in which he states they all come with it, and one from another dealer with no narration but it shows the same hitch on a different model.

Start at ~15:00:

Haylett RV

The same video also states that a TPMS is included (~18:00).

I can't find the other dealer's video right now but will add it when I find it.

I have not corroborated this information with Rockwood. I'll send them an email and post any response here.

[chriscowles]

References to the receiver are duplicated in the Shamrock forum thread #189974 linked below. I will direct further correspondence there.

Link: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...oo-189974.html

It's somewhat ironic that the Shamrock forum has a thread titled "Roo". Perhaps the Roo and Shamrock forums should be merged as "Roo/Shamrock", since they are identical trailers. That could make it easier to read the forum and would reduce duplication. (maybe)

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

References to the receiver are duplicated in the Shamrock forum thread #189974 linked below. I will direct further correspondence there.

Link: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...oo-189974.html

It's somewhat ironic that the Shamrock forum has a thread titled "Roo". Perhaps the Roo and Shamrock forums should be merged as "Roo/Shamrock", since they are identical trailers. That could make it easier to read the forum and would reduce duplication. (maybe)

They have a common sub-forum:

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

They have a common sub-forum:

That makes sense. Not that we have any say over then matter but why not apply it to the non-hybrid section?

[Bob.n.Denise]

Originally Posted by 67L48

I know that with mine, I cannot lower the tailgate of a truck when hitched. It will hit the electric jack.

My tailgate also hits the jack. Very frustrating. Considering rotating the entire jack mechanism by removing the 3 bolts securing it to the frame, rotating jack clockwise and re-bolting. Will look “different” with the jack face/buttons off to one side…but it beats lifting stuff over the closed tailgate.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Bob.n.Denise

My tailgate also hits the jack. Very frustrating. Considering rotating the entire jack mechanism by removing the 3 bolts securing it to the frame, rotating jack clockwise and re-bolting. Will look “different” with the jack face/buttons off to one side…but it beats lifting stuff over the closed tailgate.

Depending on the brand of hitch, have you considered just adding a longer shank. If your's is for example a 12" long shank install an 18" shank and that will move the trailer coupler (and jack) 6" farther back from the tailgate.

That will give you clearance for the jack and the extra 6" of length should have no noticable effect on how your trailer tows.

Here's a page of "options"

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=...ries_and_Parts

[chriscowles]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Depending on the brand of hitch, have you considered just adding a longer shank. If your's is for example a 12" long shank install an 18" shank and that will move the trailer coupler (and jack) 6" farther back from the tailgate.

That will give you clearance for the jack and the extra 6" of length should have no noticable effect on how your trailer tows.

Here's a page of "options"

https://www.etrailer.com/s.aspx?qry=...ries_and_Parts

If sway is a problem, consider that a longer shank increases the leverage the trailer has on the tow vehicle.

[Bob.n.Denise]

Originally Posted by TitanMike

Depending on the brand of hitch, have you considered just adding a longer shank.

Great idea! I have an Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch. I’ll look at their optional shanks. The weight of the 2500 RAM/Cummins should negate any effects of the longer shank.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by Bob.n.Denise

Great idea! I have an Equal-i-zer weight distribution hitch. I’ll look at their optional shanks. The weight of the 2500 RAM/Cummins should negate any effects of the longer shank.

Certainly "enough truck" and an extra 6" is very little length for "leverage".

Will make knees more vulnerable when unhitched though so you"ll want to remove when not towing for sure[emoji51][emoji51]

[WoodLark-SC]

Originally Posted by Bob.n.Denise

My tailgate also hits the jack. Very frustrating. Considering rotating the entire jack mechanism by removing the 3 bolts securing it to the frame, rotating jack clockwise and re-bolting. Will look “different” with the jack face/buttons off to one side…but it beats lifting stuff over the closed tailgate.

I rotated mine this morning.

[WoodLark-SC]

Originally Posted by chriscowles

Does the outwardly-curving front wall interfere with opening the box?

It does interfere a little, but I can still open the box far enough to access everything (including replacing the battery).